Something wrong with my Acura - Spark Plugs?

Nov 8, 2012
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4,785
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Hey folks,

Car seemed to drive fine for quite a while, no issues other than me having to replace the power steering pump from my last post. But out of random (I drove my car ~4 days ago) it won't turn on.

Since I can turn everything on (radio, lights, etc...) it doesn't seem to be the battery... but the engine overall won't start. It makes some noises and the lights on the dash flicker a bunch. If you listen right as I start turning the key, it starts a "flutter" type of noise almost like a fan. Wife had the logical thought process that it is likely spark plugs - which makes sense.

Attached is a video I uploaded, let me know if you guys can confirm for me before I go out buying things and bringing them home.


If this is the case, is there only thing I need to do is replace the spark plugs like in this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wl1NkhNexVo
 
Feb 25, 2011
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Edit: switched to chrome and can watch the video. Sounds like your starter isn't trying to crank at all. Usually they sound sick for a while before they go completely - makes me wonder if it isn't an electrical problem, like a bad solenoid or a fuse or something.

You should also voltage-test the battery. The accessories and whatnot will work with a battery that's still way too dead to get the car started.

Anyway, probably not the spark plugs - if you had a bad one, you'd still have three cylinders firing. And believe me; you can go a long way on three cylinders! Super-unlikely for all four to go bad at once.

I'd start with these troubleshooting videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539cy4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ

There are a few links in the chain in between the battery and the spark plug. You can, mostly, test them with a screwdriver, some wire to ground the tip, and a little nerve. (Just poke things and see what sparks/arcs, and don't die.) The continuity testers that light up are pretty cheap, but maybe more useful. You'll need somebody sitting in the seat to turn the key. Small children can be useful here. Just make sure they know to call 911 if dad (or mom?) is lying on the ground twitching.

Once you know for sure what it is, or at least what it most likely is, then you can swap that particular part. Spark plugs are cheap and should be replaced every ~100k miles anyway, FYI. (I think newer ones are good for longer.)
 
Last edited:
Nov 8, 2012
20,842
4,785
146
Edit: switched to chrome and can watch the video. Sounds like your starter isn't trying to crank at all. Usually they sound sick for a while before they go completely - makes me wonder if it isn't an electrical problem, like a bad solenoid or a fuse or something.

You should also voltage-test the battery. The accessories and whatnot will work with a battery that's still way too dead to get the car started.

Anyway, probably not the spark plugs - if you had a bad one, you'd still have three cylinders firing. And believe me; you can go a long way on three cylinders! Super-unlikely for all four to go bad at once.

I'd start with these troubleshooting videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539cy4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ

There are a few links in the chain in between the battery and the spark plug. You can, mostly, test them with a screwdriver, some wire to ground the tip, and a little nerve. (Just poke things and see what sparks/arcs, and don't die.) The continuity testers that light up are pretty cheap, but maybe more useful. You'll need somebody sitting in the seat to turn the key. Small children can be useful here. Just make sure they know to call 911 if dad (or mom?) is lying on the ground twitching.

Once you know for sure what it is, or at least what it most likely is, then you can swap that particular part. Spark plugs are cheap and should be replaced every ~100k miles anyway, FYI. (I think newer ones are good for longer.)

Would an ODB scanner serve much purpose as far as identifying the problems?


Thanks for the links, I'll study the troubleshoot videos further tonight.
 

Torn Mind

Lifer
Nov 25, 2012
12,078
2,772
136
Cranking must happen for spark to happen. You are not getting cranking. That is your starter solenoid clicking. Either your starter is toast or your battery is too weak. Check the battery first, since you are still getting clicking, which is better than no clicking at all.

Even with a good battery, a starter could still be on its way out and then you get the dreaded no click situation. You need to consider keeping a spare and tools to perform replacement in your vehicle in case it decides to crap out on you.
 

Torn Mind

Lifer
Nov 25, 2012
12,078
2,772
136
Edit: switched to chrome and can watch the video. Sounds like your starter isn't trying to crank at all. Usually they sound sick for a while before they go completely - makes me wonder if it isn't an electrical problem, like a bad solenoid or a fuse or something.

You should also voltage-test the battery. The accessories and whatnot will work with a battery that's still way too dead to get the car started.

Anyway, probably not the spark plugs - if you had a bad one, you'd still have three cylinders firing. And believe me; you can go a long way on three cylinders! Super-unlikely for all four to go bad at once.

I'd start with these troubleshooting videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539cy4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ

There are a few links in the chain in between the battery and the spark plug. You can, mostly, test them with a screwdriver, some wire to ground the tip, and a little nerve. (Just poke things and see what sparks/arcs, and don't die.) The continuity testers that light up are pretty cheap, but maybe more useful. You'll need somebody sitting in the seat to turn the key. Small children can be useful here. Just make sure they know to call 911 if dad (or mom?) is lying on the ground twitching.

Once you know for sure what it is, or at least what it most likely is, then you can swap that particular part. Spark plugs are cheap and should be replaced every ~100k miles anyway, FYI. (I think newer ones are good for longer.)
Battery to starter is the first link in the chain. Starter is getting power, but not enough to turn the crankshaft, so the solenoid just rapidly clicks. He need to load test the battery first. If it fails there, it's time to replace that battery. Then he might need to consider getting a fresh reman or new starter at some point in the future depending on how often he starts the vehicle in a day.
 
Nov 8, 2012
20,842
4,785
146
Cranking must happen for spark to happen. You are not getting cranking. That is your starter solenoid clicking. Either your starter is toast or your battery is too weak. Check the battery first, since you are still getting clicking, which is better than no clicking at all.

Even with a good battery, a starter could still be on its way out and then you get the dreaded no click situation. You need to consider keeping a spare and tools to perform replacement in your vehicle in case it decides to crap out on you.

Thanks a ton both of you guys - I'm guessing my BEST option is to try and jump my TSX tomorrow morning. If it succeeds, it would indicate my battery is lacking enough power to start (which is odd, all my past battery replacements have been a "duh, nothing powers" if the battery is out. If the jump doesn't start, then it's the starter that is officially out?

Also if it's the start that is going to suck, looks like it's pretty hard to get to in my TSX.
 

PottedMeat

Lifer
Apr 17, 2002
12,363
475
126
yeah thats probably a low battery.

you're turning the key, the car computers are starting (low current draw so the battery is ok at this point), illuminating displays, you turn the key to start and the starter solenoid activates to turn the starter motor. the starter motor needs 100+ amps to spin the crankshaft but the battery has been discharged so the voltage dips (heavy current draw) to below the computer's operating voltage (dim and blinking lights) and it keeps restarting until the starter solenoid disengages and the voltage recovers.

toss a small charger on it overnight, also buy a multimeter
 

RLGL

Platinum Member
Jan 8, 2013
2,115
322
126
Battery connections clean and tight?How old is the battery? Replace if 4 or 5 yrs old
 
Nov 8, 2012
20,842
4,785
146
Thanks everyone for the help.

I tried to jumpstart this morning from our mini Cooper, and it just wouldn't work... even if I let it sit for 5 minutes. I figured that would indicate it was something else, because I had no issues with my battery anytime recently....

Took the battery in to advance auto, and was thankfully able to replace it for free because they couldn't get enough amps to even perform a test after trying to charge it for 30 minutes.

Which just as a PSA I have to mention, whenever buying a car battery always buy the one with the longest warranty. For me, they usually crap out right AFTER the warranty like there is a timing mechanism. In this rare case, I came out victorious.