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Some amp questions

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ghost recon88

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I'm finally getting another set of speakers to replace the blown ones in the rear of my 96 Mustang. Last fall I put a new set in the front. At that time I also installed a Kenwood eXcelon KDC-693. I plan on getting a match set of speakers for that rear, so that means an Alpine SPR-57C. My question is, I remember hearing if I get an amp it would not only mean being able to play music louder without crackling/breaking up, but the music at lower volumes would also be a lot cleaner sounding. Is this true? For example, if I turn the volume on my headunit to something relatively low, like 15, would I be able to hear a difference when I installed the amp? Or does an amp only shine at ungodly high volumes? Or would it make a noticeable difference at lower volumes as well? Thanks.

Also would this be a good amp since I don't plan on getting a sub now, and if I did get a sub I would just get a mono-block. http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_099EA4200/Eclipse-EA4200.html?c=3&tp=115&avf=N
I don't need to have my mirrors rattling or anything like that, and 60w RMS x4 @ 4ohms for $130 seems like a pretty good deal.
 
Most decks have plenty of power where at low/normal volume you should little to no distortion.

I had a big stereo in HS and the low volume was no different before vs after. It was only when it was really turned up.
 
I was somewhat skeptical and pleasantly surprised how much real world difference adding an amp improved the sound of my car stereo. Sitting in the driveway or at idle at a stop sign with the volume knob turned down I can't say the sound was any different, but driving at freeway speeds with road noise I typically have the volume knob at 50% or higher (this will vary for each head unit/amp and for each vehicle, basically loud enough to drown out the majority of the road noise) the sound with an amp is a lot better. Not only are the speakers louder, there is no audible distortion and the low frequencies really come to life even with small speakers. I'd say it's very much worth the investment.
 
it completely depends on the speakers you're using.

factory paper speakers are not going to get better low-end from amplification. a set of quality aftermarket speakers with large motors will damn near require it- HU power simply will not be able to create the excursion needed to produce low frequencies, even at very moderate volumes.

leave your rear speakers alone and get a 2ch amp for your front speakers, which hopefull are type r comps and not coaxes.
 
it completely depends on the speakers you're using.

factory paper speakers are not going to get better low-end from amplification. a set of quality aftermarket speakers with large motors will damn near require it- HU power simply will not be able to create the excursion needed to produce low frequencies, even at very moderate volumes.

leave your rear speakers alone and get a 2ch amp for your front speakers, which hopefull are type r comps and not coaxes.

What's wrong with coaxial? And why wouldn't I want an amp running to all 4 speakers? These are the speakers I have in the front, and I planned on getting another set for the back.
 
What's wrong with coaxial? And why wouldn't I want an amp running to all 4 speakers? These are the speakers I have in the front, and I planned on getting another set for the back.

The thinking is that a component set of woofer + remote mounted tweeter will sound better than an equivalent costing coax, which I'd agree with.

The other part is that for the driver, having good front speakers is all that matters really, which is a topic of debate. On like sedans, I'd still want rear speakers to "fill the car", but with a coupe it could be valid to only have fronts
 
The thinking is that a component set of woofer + remote mounted tweeter will sound better than an equivalent costing coax, which I'd agree with.

The other part is that for the driver, having good front speakers is all that matters really, which is a topic of debate. On like sedans, I'd still want rear speakers to "fill the car", but with a coupe it could be valid to only have fronts

OK. Well I'm not gonna swap out the front speakers for components, so I'll have to make the best with whats in there. Now, the reason I want to swap out the rear speakers is because they buzz like crazy plus they're rattling since they're not tightened down all the way (previous owner did a piss install job). I figure while I have the back seat out and everything, I might as well just swap in some better speakers.

If I just wire the front 2 up to an amp, and leave the rear 2 running off the deck, couldn't that create some issues? As in, I turn the volume up on the front (since the amp can take it) but then end up blowing out the rears? Or at least turning them up loud enough that they're past the headunits range? I guess I don't see what the big deal is with having all 4 speakers running to an amp, vs. having just the front 2 :\
 
If you've got a 4 channel amp you might as well amp all 4 speakers unless you want to bridge 2 channels and have slightly louder front speakers. If you've got good high sensitivity 4 ohm drivers I don't see why you'd need more than about 50 watts RMS for door speakers, that'll be plenty loud in any car. I doubt you'd blow the rear speakers running off the head unit, that will only happen if the headunit is clipping the signal, presumably if it's clipping on the speaker outs it'll clip on the preouts as well which will blow the speakers connected to the amp just as quickly. If your headunit clips at anything less than full volume it's junk, if you listen to music for any length of time at full volume you deserve what you get.
 
OK well I don't have an amp yet, but I was planning on getting a 4-channel. Is the one I have linked in the first post any good? My speakers are rated for 4 ohms, so with that one I would be getting up to 60w RMS on each speaker.
 
Eclipse is good. I have had an EA4100 for almost a year and I am pleased with it. That's way too good of a price though (almost $100 less than woofersetc and sonicelectronix!), take a good look to make sure it's not a refurb
 
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