Solved: I need some help with fixing a wine cooler

[nboy22]

Hey everyone,

I've been having a hell of a time trying to figure out what is going on with my room mate's wine cooler and figured anandtech might be able to give me some suggestions. We had an old vinotemp VT60 wine cooler that was in the home when my room mate bought it, but it never worked. So today we find some guy on craigslist selling the same model. So I go to pick it up, and everything is working great, I could hear the compressor and nothing seemed to be wrong with it. I transported it 30 miles and then we plugged it in and we only heard a constant clicking noise.

After quite a bit of research, everyone is saying it is either the PTC in the starter, or the overload protector. I have tried taking out the disc in the starter and rotating it and also sanding it down a tiny bit, as well as verified that it has hardly any resistance. I also took the overload protector off of the old unit and put it on the new unit. I have also tried taking the fan in the old unit and put it in the newer unit.

At this point I still have the relay on the PCB clicking away and am wondering if it is worth it to order those two parts (starter and overload protector) but have them be brand new instead of taking them off the old unit, which means they could indeed be faulty. Along with the clicking noise, the fan moves a tiny bit, and when you hold down the button on the front that decreases the temperature inside the unit, the compressor kicks on for just a tiny bit but then immediately shuts off.

Anyone have any ideas for what my next step should be in troubleshooting this thing? Thanks!

****UPDATE****
Alright everyone. The case is solved. On the main PCB there is a capacitor that is a 1000μ 25V. I mentioned previously in this post that it was bulging. I decided to pull out the multimeter and use a youtube video to tell exactly how to test capacitors. It's kind of a crappy method, but I noticed the bulging capacitor had full resistance. I tested other capacitors that were on a separate PCB from the older unit and they reacted differently. Those other capacitors showed a quick discharge when inspected with the multimeter.

With this new discovery I went to Radio Shack because it was close, but didn't find the capacitor there. I went to Fry's electronics in Tempe, AZ and picked up the right capacitor for ~$2.70. With some quick soldering, the capacitor was in quickly and the cooler powered right on with no issues once I put everything back together.

 

[disappoint]

Low refrigerant?

 

[nboy22]

Low refrigerant?

Would that cause the compressor and fan to not come on, and cause a relay to constantly click? My understanding of refrigeration systems is limited.

 

[disappoint]

It would cause the compressor to cycle on and off.

 

[nboy22]

It would cause the compressor to cycle on and off.

For the most part it doesn't even cycle on because that relay is pumping away trying to start the system but something it tripping the relay or making it cycle (not sure of the correct terminology. I'm trying to narrow it down to why the relay is still clicking and I've tried multiple starters and overload protectors but that relay on the main PCB keeps clicking away. All I did was transport it for maybe 45 minutes from the last time it was working, and it was standing upright the whole time I transported it so I wouldn't screw up the refrigeration system.

 

[olds]

Did you try it before you bought it? Was it working properly then?

 

[nboy22]

Did you try it before you bought it? Was it working properly then?

Yes, I had the guy power it on and it got down to 56 degrees in 1 hour while i drove over there which is almost where it should be for a wine cooler.

I transported it upright and it never turned on it's side.

 

[olds]

I'd test the power at the outlet.

 

[DrPizza]

You didn't lay it down on its side when transporting it, did you?

edit: nope, see your reply above.

 

[the DRIZZLE]

Did you measure the resistance across the compressor with the overload protector removed. Also, make sure you properly discharge the capacitor before you mess with this stuff?

 

[nboy22]

You didn't lay it down on its side when transporting it, did you?

Nope, it was upright the whole trip. Worst I hit was maybe 1/2 mile of dirt roads but I took it pretty slow and it never fell over on its side.

 

[nboy22]

Did you measure the resistance across the compressor with the overload protector removed. Also, make sure you properly discharge the capacitor before you mess with this stuff?

Where should I put my multimeter leads? I tested all the leads for the starter and overload protector to make sure the compressor wasn't shorting out and everything seems good there. There is almost no resistance on both the overload protector and the starter.

 

[olds]

First one didn't work.
Second one doesn't work.
If installed in the same location, check outlet.

 

[nboy22]

First one didn't work.
Second one doesn't work.
If installed in the same location, check outlet.

Ran an extension cord straight to the fridge from a GFCI outlet. Nothing different, I still hear a clicking noise from the main PCB from a relay that resides on the main PCB. The fan moves a tiny bit when it clicks. When you hold down the thermostat control on the front of the wine cooling unit, the fan will speed up a little bit and sometimes the compressor sounds like it's about to come on but there is still no functionality.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

 

[nboy22]

I was thinking more about this today and I think the relay on the mainboard PCB is bad, plus the capacitor on the mainboard PCB is bulging a little bit. I've seen and replaced far worse capacitors, so I think the problem has more to do with the relay. I can see the relay sparking inside because there is a little hole on top and that seems a bit unusual to me.

So now to replace the relay, which is a Song Chuan 835-1A-B-C. I can't figure out where to buy from because I see the relay on aliexpress.com for ~$10. It could also take 3-4 weeks to get here because it will be coming from China.

Can someone help me find an equivalent to the Song Chuan 835-1A-B-C, but in the USA? This is the info I've got on the top of the capacitor:

10A 277V~50/60hz
10A 250V
12 VDC

On the left top side there is the numbers "C0411" and are also a couple other markings such as "TV-5" and "T85" which I suspect have something to do with ISO standards. I tried looking at digikey and mouser but didn't see this particular model on there and wondered if maybe there was another manufacturer that has these in the USA and available to purchase.

 

[disappoint]

Nope, it was upright the whole trip. Worst I hit was maybe 1/2 mile of dirt roads but I took it pretty slow and it never fell over on its side.

But it was bumpy? Or maybe bumped when putting on or taken down from truck? I suspect a loose connection somewhere.

 

[herm0016]

is there a pressure switch?

take a pic of the relay, is it a standard size? if so i am sure we can find one that will work.

 

[nboy22]

Alright everyone. The case is solved. On the main PCB there is a capacitor that is a 1000μ 25V. I mentioned previously in this post that it was bulging. I decided to pull out the multimeter and use a youtube video to tell exactly how to test capacitors. It's kind of a crappy method, but I noticed the bulging capacitor had full resistance. I tested other capacitors that were on a separate PCB from the older unit and they reacted differently. Those other capacitors showed a quick discharge when inspected with the multimeter.

With this new discovery I went to Radio Shack because it was close, but didn't find the capacitor there. I went to Fry's electronics in Tempe, AZ and picked up the right capacitor for ~$2.70. With some quick soldering, the capacitor was in quickly and the cooler powered right on with no issues once I put everything back together.

 

[disappoint]

Nice work!

 

[nboy22]

Nice work!

Thank you! It was definitely interesting fixing my first fridge/cooling system. Luckily I took some basic electronics courses in high school (8 years ago - don't remember much of it) and have also replaced bad caps before on an old motherboard. I had caps that looked 3 times as bad on that motherboard, and they were still functioning. That sure threw me off for a while, but now I know when I see a bulging capacitor to take it seriously.

 

[lupi]

wouldnt you just drink it?