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Solder Gun or Iron

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olds

olds

Elite Member
I tried to solder some 10 gauge stranded wire and my 30 year old gun wouldn't get hot enough. It might be the gun.
Do I need a new gun or would an iron get hotter?
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the terminology. How many watts is your gun? Typically a gun will have more "power" than an iron. Perhaps you need to use more flux or get a new tip for the gun?
 
NutBucket said:
I wouldn't worry too much about the terminology. How many watts is your gun? Typically a gun will have more "power" than an iron. Perhaps you need to use more flux or get a new tip for the gun?
Click to expand...

Soldering iron, soldering gun and soldering station are all different meanings; #10 wire needs a typical gun like a Weller with a 1/4" tip and keeping clean; keeps it useful.

I own a soldering station with a small tip for circuit boards and wire in 18, 20, 22 or higher range; A old Weller gun for wire up to 10 and for 12 volt battery cables a 50n year old soldering iron with an inch wide tip that takes several minutes to heat up but retains heat for ever. It might work on something as small as #10 braided but has more heat than I like for coaxial cable.

Clean your tip with a little solder and a good damp sponge
 
I've used my soldering iron for 12 gauge. My point is the capability of the tool depends on the tool itself. This is my soldering iron:

prev_Metcal%20MFR-2241%20new%20HP.jpg
 
I have done #12 stranded with my 140w Weller gun, but it was at the edge of being hot enough to flow the solder properly.
 
When I didn't get hot enough, I cleaned the tip and tinned it. Still not hot enough so I threw it away.
I'd break out a propane torch but I don't want to melt the insulation on the wire.
 
The most frequent cause of lack of sufficient heat I remember with the old Weller guns was the two mounting connection nuts for the heating element would get loose due to normal heating/cooling cycles from normal use.
 
My old Weller gets 1500/1000 watts depending on how far you pull the trigger. Hotter than most commercially available irons. !500 at half pull, 1000 full pull. Always seemed kinda backwards.
 
Solder tip tinner is amazing.
It's a chemical paste (or solid) that removed oxide from the tip.
Once you use it, you will be amazed.
When tips are oxidized, you get very little thermal transfer, so nothing melts and flows.
When you use a tinner to remove the oxide, then apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron, everything heats up and flows well.

BTW, I highly recommend a soldering iron station over the guns, simply for ease of use.
 
dbcooper1 said:
The most frequent cause of lack of sufficient heat I remember with the old Weller guns was the two mounting connection nuts for the heating element would get loose due to normal heating/cooling cycles from normal use.
Click to expand...

yup. also the tip may have eroded away to the point where they barely make contact. in a pinch 10 gauge solid wire can be made into a tip.

i've done 10 gauge copper to 10 gauge copper before with a 100/140 weller gun but it takes a while to get up to temperature. that's assuming the tip has at least wetted the copper and there's good thermal transfer going on.

also paste flux and/or sanding the surfaces can help.
 
I'll have to buy something. #10 is the heaviest gauge I'd solder. How may watts should I get?
 
Let it get really hot, wipe it with a wet paper towel. See if its nice and smooth and clean. If not, CAREFULLY sand or file it until all the garbage is gone and its smooth again.

If it still doesnt work well then buy some new tips. They shouldnt be expensive regardless of brand or style.

Unrelated: In the Navy we used a PRC 2000, and if I could afford one thats what I would have in my workshop.
 
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