So, I'm thinking about changing front struts for the first time

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
My son has been complaining about a squeak coming from the front end of my 1998 Olds Intrigue (90K mi.) when the car hits a bump. So, I put it up on jack stands today and the only thing I could find was a long squeak I think is coming from the strut after I jacked up on the control arm and let it down swiftly.

I know I'm going to have to compress that spring to swap it out. Any tips?
 

Doodoo

Golden Member
Feb 14, 2000
1,423
0
76
Get a breaker bar...or an impact wrench...and pray that those bolts arent rusted on.
 

Crucial

Diamond Member
Dec 21, 2000
5,026
0
71
Save yourself the headache of getting a spring compressor and just get a spring/strut preassembled. You won't have to worry about killing yourself with the spring and you won't fight to get the old one off and the new one on.
 

Black88GTA

Diamond Member
Sep 9, 2003
3,430
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I'd replace at least the other front strut at the same time, if not all 4 shocks / struts. Replacing only one strut and leaving 3 other worn ones in there will probably throw your handling off and might make the car squirrelly over bumps.

Loop a chain around the spring coils and something else attached to the car before you take the spring / strut assembly apart, to eliminate the chance that the spring will suddenly fly out and hit you when you take it apart. When I did it, I locked it together with a keyed padlock. Mine didn't end up hardly moving at all, but the danger is there.

You can rent a spring compressor from Autozone for free. You just have to put down a (100% refundable) deposit. Although, when I did it I didn't have a compressor - so, I bolted the strut mount to the car, installed the shock assembly and spring, and used a jack to carefully raise the lower control arm, compress the spring, and push the strut thru the mount enough for me to get the nut on it. I had lowering springs though, which were shorter than stock - I don't know if that method would work with the factory springs or not, as they might be too tall.

When you install the spring on the strut, make sure the flat side of the spring is the side that goes into the upper mount, and the end of the bottom coil seats into the "pocket" on the strut.

Don't forget to undo any brake hose bolts attaching the hose to the strut before pulling the struts out!

Soak any and all fasteners that you will have to remove (especially lower strut bolts) with PB blaster far in advance of the project. You will thank yourself when you do it, especially if you are in an area where they salt in the winter.

A solid impact wrench is your friend here. Or, have a good breaker bar and a few feet of cheater pipe handy for stubborn bolts.
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
Originally posted by: radioouman
Make sure that you replace the strut bearing at the same time.

Now that is exactly the kind of info I was thinking about when I started this thread.



Originally posted by: Black88GTA
I'd replace at least the other front strut at the same time, if not all 4 shocks / struts. Replacing only one strut and leaving 3 other worn ones in there will probably throw your handling off and might make the car squirrelly over bumps.

Loop a chain around the spring coils and something else attached to the car before you take the spring / strut assembly apart, to eliminate the chance that the spring will suddenly fly out and hit you when you take it apart. When I did it, I locked it together with a keyed padlock. Mine didn't end up hardly moving at all, but the danger is there.

You can rent a spring compressor from Autozone for free. You just have to put down a (100% refundable) deposit. Although, when I did it I didn't have a compressor - so, I bolted the strut mount to the car, installed the shock assembly and spring, and used a jack to carefully raise the lower control arm, compress the spring, and push the strut thru the mount enough for me to get the nut on it. I had lowering springs though, which were shorter than stock - I don't know if that method would work with the factory springs or not, as they might be too tall.

When you install the spring on the strut, make sure the flat side of the spring is the side that goes into the upper mount, and the end of the bottom coil seats into the "pocket" on the strut.

Don't forget to undo any brake hose bolts attaching the hose to the strut before pulling the struts out!

Soak any and all fasteners that you will have to remove (especially lower strut bolts) with PB blaster far in advance of the project. You will thank yourself when you do it, especially if you are in an area where they salt in the winter.

A solid impact wrench is your friend here. Or, have a good breaker bar and a few feet of cheater pipe handy for stubborn bolts.

I didn't know that autozone would do a free rental. Yeah I'll probably do both fronts.

btw - I have no fear of rusted bolts, they fear me.




 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Originally posted by: Squisher

I didn't know that autozone would do a free rental. Yeah I'll probably do both fronts.

btw - I have no fear of rusted bolts, they fear me.

Yeah, Murrays has them too.

Are you sure it's just the strut squeaking? There are quite a few parts that move when the suspension is loaded/unloaded.
 

boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
18,883
641
126
I've talked of this before here, but the bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle are usually an interference fit on GM products. They can be extremely difficult to remove and chances are they will be damaged beyond the point of being reused.

You're aware the car will need an alignment afterwards, right?

As another option, a lot of auto parts stores will swap your springs onto new struts purchased from them.
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: Squisher

I didn't know that autozone would do a free rental. Yeah I'll probably do both fronts.

btw - I have no fear of rusted bolts, they fear me.

Yeah, Murrays has them too.

Are you sure it's just the strut squeaking? There are quite a few parts that move when the suspension is loaded/unloaded.

No, I'm not sure. I probably cycled that control arm fifty times and I'm still not sure. I got out the WD-40 to see if I could make the noise go away (just so I could identify it) and had no such luck. The front control arm bushing looks trashed (rubber parts hanging out) but the back looks fine. The only thing that points me to the strut is that the noise was so long lived when I cycled it with the jack that I have to believe it is the strut.

I even said to the son that he should find a suspension shop and see how much they'd charge for a diagnosis before we go too far with this hunt and peck type of car repair.

 

bigi

Platinum Member
Aug 8, 2001
2,490
156
106
Use a torch and heat up the nuts/bolts. Be careful when dealing with impact wrench. Old screws break easily, when it happens real problems begin...