So, if I rubbed off the bridges...

[RmoR]

I might have rubbed off a couple of BD-FID and FID bridges on my Duron700, I don't know yet. But if I have, then it appears my only recourse, if I am to continue fiddling with it, is to install a jumper set. Would it be best to wire from the pins, or from the traces on the board. The traces would be dicey because I haven't a friggin clue which one is which, and they may not even be accessable. 1. Is there any real danger wiring from the pins? (i.e. heat and resulting short circuit if wire sleave melts)
2. What would the best wire be? (I no nothing of electrical specs, so general description pls)
3. Should I use one of those little switch boxes with the wee little light-switch-type thingys, or an old-shool jumper?
4. What sort of resistance should the jumper have? (Presumably as little as possible, but I don't know)
5. What solder is best? The standard lead-tin 70/30 mix with flux?

Thank you for your input.

 

[johncar]

Rmor,
http://members.nbci.com/candjac/index.htm has the circuits and tips on soldering wires to the backs of sockets...soldering to traces is risky. Just use any standard hookup wire about 22 AWG (gage), maaaybe higher # AWG/smaller diameter wires...see how much room between pads.

Don't worry about resistance of wire and/or jumpers...will be negligible, have no effect on operation. Be sure to tin the ends of wires quite a bit...then you won't need to feed solder...just hold the tinned end on top of the solder pad on the socket and wait for the solder to melt/flow/fuse together...remove the soldering iron and let cool.

Dipswitches or jumpers...take your pick. Use 60/40, 63/37, any solder rated for "electronics"...not for plumbing.

Again, go to the site, has details on doing just what you want to do,
and there's a link to Cyrano's site with pics of how he did exactly this mod. If you do this type of mod, note the use of current limiting resistors about 56 or 100 ohms.
John C.

 

[RmoR]

Thanks, John. I'm just curious, though, have you heard of, or encountered yourself, any problems with running the switch leads directly from the pins on the back of the cpu base? I'd rather mess with the cpu than the mobo. Can a grounded soldering iron destroy the transistors in the cpu? Yes, I've checked out your page many times. A great resource.

 

[johncar]

Rmor,
Just happened to run across this link which is a Japanese mod to a new
Asus mobo..A7 266 something that does not have multiplier switches etc... http://www.valley.ne.jp/~marc/athlon.htm

3rd pic from bottom shows very clearly how they soldered wires to the backside of the socket. Be patient as it's a long d/l, lots of pics, but that one is just what you're asking about. One of their pics also shows a small home-made pcb with dipsw's and jumpers on it...proves that it can be done...people ARE doing it with mobos that don't have all the oc'g hardware.

Cpu should not be in the socket when soldering wires to the socket backside.

Interesting project/test..compare the locations where they soldered the wires...to the BP_FID, FID and VID pinout pic on page 1 of our site. See which of 3 functions above they connected to.
John C.

 

[RmoR]

If I wire the jumper/dipswitch set, I assume that the FID and BD_FID bridges should be totally obliterated from the surface of the chip. Would that be correct?

 

[johncar]

RmoR,
No, not necessarily, as the circuits are designed to "over-ride" the default signals in the case of the BP_FID circuits.

But in the case of the FID signals which have "hard grounds", ie, no resistors between the signal busses and Gd, then closed FID bridges need to opened...OR...their traces on the mobo should be opened...we prefer the former.

It's all carefully explained at the site, suggest you print out the 3 or 4 web pages for checking it all out carefully before jumping in.
John C.