snowboarding gurus: tips on buying a new board, boots, bindings? need one by this weekend

[LordSnailz]

I'm can snowboard but I think I'm in between a beginner and an intermediate.

Suggestions on how much to spend on the board, boots and bindings?
Which item should I spend the most on, board, boots or bindings?
Any ballpark numbers on beginner board, boot, or bindings?
What brand I should look for or stay away from?

I'm thinking of getting the board off craigslist and then getting the bindings and boots off REI or a local shop.

Suggestions for local shops in bayarea southbay?

Thanks in adv!

 

[TheoPetro]

im at the same point. Any tips on where to spend the $ would help me out too.

 

[ArchCenturion]

Aww fvck yea!! a snowboarding thread

Im not an expert snowboard pikerouter, but i will tell you what i know. Just like any board, the longer it is, the faster you will go, but less control you will have.

if you want to be able to make real quick tight movements, get a shorter board, mine goes up to my chin when i stand next to it, and feels pretty comfortable, but its kinda heavy and tougher to do grabs sometimes cuz it moves slower.

also if your a big fat guy, you might need a larger board if you going in any decent powder, or else you will sink in and it will suck.

I am 6' 165lbs, and i ride a K2 board with some burton boots, and i forget the bindings, but they are the strap kind not the clip in.


Also depending on where you are going, the snow clothes are very important, you want good water proof (hopefully) pants and jacket. Also no matter what skill level you may want a helmet cuz it sucks landing on the head.

 

[ArchCenturion]

Originally posted by: LordSnailz
I'm can snowboard but I think I'm in between a beginner and an intermediate.

Suggestions on how much to spend on the board, boots and bindings?
Which item should I spend the most on, board, boots or bindings?
Any ballpark numbers on beginner board, boot, or bindings?
What brand I should look for or stay away from?

I'm thinking of getting the board off craigslist and then getting the bindings and boots off REI or a local shop.

Suggestions for local shops in bayarea southbay?

Thanks in adv!

As far as im concerned, if you are not hitting jumps and rails, any board you get will work fine for you, as long as it is the right length and width, and you wax the bottom and sharpen the rails.

Some people will tell you that the stiffness of the board is a huge factor. I dont think that it matters much. stiffer boards seem to go alittle faster and seem more durable, while boards with a smaller stiffness give a smother ride, its kinda like a car suspension i guess.

Try going up with your friends, and asking them to switch boards with you on some of the runs.

For bindings and boots, just look them over, and see which ones feel the best quality, and make sure your boots are super comfortable after you tighten the sh1t out of them.

 

[LordSnailz]

Thanks - so you're saying, boots, binds then board in terms of which one should cost more?
For bindings, can you move them over from one board to another? Should I spend a little more on the bindings and boots since I would be use that from board to board? Any board part # for bindings, boots and board?

Any tips on what's the best width? For length, I heard anything between your chin and nose should be good, right?

 

[async]

I'll risk bumping my post rate to > 1 every hundred days for a snowboarding thread..

Make sure you get good boots.
There is nothing more miserable than spending 6 hours a day loosening laces then tightening them up again.
Avoid boots with boa systems unless you have perfectly average feet they'll be too tight in places otherwise.
Get boots that are shaped around your achilles to keep your heel down - these are great.
Nitro (and probably others now) do a line with a Twin Lacing System- the lower part of the boot and the bit around your shin can be tightened individually - joy.
Some shops will let you to take the boots home and exchange them if you only wore them indoors. Do this if you can, trying boots on for 5 minutes in a store != wearing a boot for 8 hours.

Trying to spin and land with long + stiff boards is far less forgiving than with a short board. Take a neck brace for when you catch your edges. Booting it down double blacks with a 151 tied to your feet is equally hair-raising. Take a neck brace for when a you get thrown 6' in the air and land on your head.

Bindings, don't be cheap - if you want to feel bolted to the board get stiff ones, but stiff boots + stiff bindings can be a weird feeling if you're used to rental gear. Carbon fibre backs etc aren't worth the extra $$ IMO

Ride make really good boards that don't cost the earth (but stay away from the Timeless unless you plan to ride solely in powder).
If you can find a year or 2 old ride no4 you probably won't need to change your board for a few years. It'll a fairly advanced board, but forgiving if your not. Get a shorter one than you were planning on getting if your gonna be spinning.

Everyone is different though, YMMV.

If you can pick up last seasons stock from somewhere you'll save a fortune. Thats the up/downside of being a trendy passtime.

Oh, and rubbing the inside of your goggles is what makes them susceptible to steaming up. Something to do with condensing nucleii on rough surfaces. Don't do it as tempting as it is.

Good luck.

 

[Zolty]

http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview...atid=38&threadid=1966096&enterthread=y

Originally posted by: Zolty
I went on ebay and picked up a new set up, got some good deals
2006 (last years) Burton T6 $400 ($795 MSRP) Unused, still in the bag.
New Burton P1 Bindings $200 ($260 MSRP)
New Burton Hail Boots $190 ($220 MSRP)

I can't wait to try it out. I have had really good luck finding this sort of stuff on ebay in recent years.

You should be able to put together a decent set up for $500 or so. If you go for a used set up you could probably get board and bindings for 100-200 then add boots for around 100-150.

If this is your first board buy used so you can trash it and buy new next year when you are better. If you want suggestions you need only look below.

I am kind of a burton fanboy so my opinion is that you should buy burton.

Low end for retail on the burton line up will be as follows
$295 Burton Bullet (wide) or Clash
$109 Burton Freestyle bindings
$139 Burton Moto Boots
______
$543

Of course this is retail and you can beat that if you look around.

 

[FreshFish]

In terms of cost, a good board will cost more than good boots or bindings. That said, I agree with some previous posters that boots are probably the most important piece of equipment. If your boots aren't comfortable, you wont last more than a couple hours on the hill.

I would go somewhere in the $250-$300 range for the board (maybe slightly more), and about $150 each for boots and bindings. Good quality gear will last you a long time too. I have been riding the same gear (goggles being the only exception) for about 5 years now.

 

[Dirigible]

Originally posted by: async
I'll risk bumping my post rate to > 1 every hundred days for a snowboarding thread..

Make sure you get good boots.
There is nothing more miserable than spending 6 hours a day loosening laces then tightening them up again.
Avoid boots with boa systems unless you have perfectly average feet they'll be too tight in places otherwise.
Get boots that are shaped around your achilles to keep your heel down - these are great.
Nitro (and probably others now) do a line with a Twin Lacing System- the lower part of the boot and the bit around your shin can be tightened individually - joy.
Some shops will let you to take the boots home and exchange them if you only wore them indoors. Do this if you can, trying boots on for 5 minutes in a store != wearing a boot for 8 hours.

Trying to spin and land with long + stiff boards is far less forgiving than with a short board. Take a neck brace for when you catch your edges. Booting it down double blacks with a 151 tied to your feet is equally hair-raising. Take a neck brace for when a you get thrown 6' in the air and land on your head.

Bindings, don't be cheap - if you want to feel bolted to the board get stiff ones, but stiff boots + stiff bindings can be a weird feeling if you're used to rental gear. Carbon fibre backs etc aren't worth the extra $$ IMO

Ride make really good boards that don't cost the earth (but stay away from the Timeless unless you plan to ride solely in powder).
If you can find a year or 2 old ride no4 you probably won't need to change your board for a few years. It'll a fairly advanced board, but forgiving if your not. Get a shorter one than you were planning on getting if your gonna be spinning.

Everyone is different though, YMMV.

If you can pick up last seasons stock from somewhere you'll save a fortune. Thats the up/downside of being a trendy passtime.

Oh, and rubbing the inside of your goggles is what makes them susceptible to steaming up. Something to do with condensing nucleii on rough surfaces. Don't do it as tempting as it is.

Good luck.

Good info there.

I'd start with boots - spend whatever it takes to get comfortable ones.

After that, since you're still pretty much a beginner I'd probably just get a midrange (mid-stiffness, not very short or long, not too expensive) board and bindings. Based on that you can learn whether you like shorter or longer, stiffer or more flex as you gain experience.

I rode a cheap, short, flexy board for many years. Really easy to turn quick. Scary and unstable at speed, really hard to carve. Still lots of fun, and after riding it (and some demo boards) I had a really good idea of what I liked when I finally upgraded.

 

[HeroOfPellinor]

Sierratradingpost.com sells mostly closeout (last season's stuff) but it's brand name stuff in general.

They're having 20% off snowboard gear today only. There is a 20% off coupon code you can find easily on the web. And you get $20 off a $50 order using GCO. This all amounts to really really affordable stuff.

If you don't know WTF you need, then maybe just pick up some of this stuff cheap and get a feel for what you really require and if you end up boarding more, picking up some nicer things.

 

[duragezic]

Good info by async.

As a beginner to intermediate rider, I would worry the least about the board. I used to hear of so many spolied kids in HS getting the newest $400+ Burton board yet they still sucked ass. I've snowboarded for over 7 years, and I'm STILL using a Division 23 ~148cm I got used from a friend for like $90. It is starting to get some chips around the corner but hopefully it will hold up until I graduate college. One of my roommates now had this Div23 board for like 3 years (this was like 6-7 years ago), sold it to a friend who used it for one year, and now I've had it since. Really unless you have a piece of crap board, it has very little bearing on how you snowboard until you get very good or you want a specific board for rails or whatnot. I've noticed just a small difference in friends' boards I've rode and that was mostly because of length and flex differences. My first board was a Type A that was rather cheap as well. For the board, I would check out local shops for last-year models and clearanced ones. I never got why people think they need the newest Burton board. Just find the right length board, or you could even order online.


So depending if you get it used or clearance of course, but I would say no more than $300 for your board but closer to $200 possibly Again, I bought my current one used for $90 and for 7 years it's been rode by all kinds of people in all places and just now is starting to show signs of significant wear. Just get a relatively name-brand one, preferably good condition used or closeout. Doesn't have to be the "top shelf" ones like K2, Burton, Ride, Forum, etc.. Stuff like Division 23, Type A, would do and god I can't remember osme others, but Performance Snowboarding used to be an excellent internet retailer with good mid-range equipment. Most important is to get one that matches your height and weight, riding style (freestyle you'll want a more flexible and shorter board, but for speed and just carving down the hill or freeride, longer and stiffer is better)

Bindings.. just don't get some cheap ones with no support and padding. I'm using my very first Burton bindings that cost about $130 7 years ago. I've replaced the hardware on them a few times and that's it. Can't really complain about them, I mean they work. Maybe in 1-2 years I'll get a new board + bindings. Again, possibly check last-year or clearanced bindings.

And lastly I agree with the others on the boots. Try on all kinds of them. I paid about $130-$160 each for the two pairs of boots I've had since I've started. I can't remember the brand I have right now, but they are good, no complaint there either.

For $500 you can get all 3 that will be plenty good enough for years down the road.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Where do you live? Don't you have any good local shops or mountains that offer advice and more importantly DEMOS. Here in VT you can't swing a stick w/out hitting a good shop or mountain that has demo days. If you're a beginner/intermediate rider your local shop rat is really a great source of info. Talk to them, they will ask questions and make some very good suggestions.

Most important as others have said is the boots. Blow the $$ needed to get comfortable/supportive boots. Nothing sucks worse than having cold or ill-fitting boots. My boots are blow to sh!t and old, but so comfy they're basically held together w/ duct tape and shoe goo.

Bindings - meh, until you have some serious experience under your belt you really won't notice too much of a difference. Probably the biggest thing you'll consider is whether you wanna click in or strap in. Pros and cons to both set ups. But I've been really happy simply clicking in for the past 12 yrs and won't go back.

The shop rat will be your best source of info on choosing a board. As a beginner/intermediate you will want a a good "all around" board. You're probably an average Joe rider, you like some powder, hit a few bumps and drops, catch a little air here an there, bonk some trees, do some on the slope sharpening (pronounced rocks) etc. Just ask for a decent all around board. You want one that isn't going to be to flexy or it will feel unstable at speed, but you're not a speed freak in need of a long alpine board that will be very unresponsive either. Look for last year's model and save some $$. Just go to your local, decent shop and let them do their job and help you.
j

 

[LordSnailz]

Thanks for the replies guys, I'll visit a few places tonight and check craigslist as well

 

[mrchan]

Originally posted by: StrangeRangerLook for last year's model and save some $$. Just go to your local, decent shop and let them do their job and help you.
j

 

[James3shin]

what someone may suggest to you on here may not be good for you. You should definitely hit the shops.