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Small motors: Lawnmower blows up twice in one day

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So I hit a stump, bend the crap out of the blade = need a new blade. Backing up before this happened, about 2 weeks ago I get it back from the shop after some maintenance. The motor was brought back to life. Strong compression, the motor stopped quickly after releasing the engagement bar. Fast forward to right after bending the crap out of the blade, the motor will turn for about 3-5 seconds before stopping. Side-bar to next question, when I was changing the blade I had the deck tilted towards the exhaust side. I imagine some gas flooded the exhaust. Upon starting the mower after the new blade was on a TON of white/gray smoke along with some black liquid spewed out of the exhaust.

I continued on cutting another lawn that day. The smoke did lean out but was still present, and the motor now spins for about 3-5 seconds after the lever is disengaged. Is the motor toast?

p.s. thing is when i transported the mower to the next house the front housing for the front wheels broke. I learned this 10 minutes into cutting the next lawn when the front wheels and bar came off and got sucked under the mower thereby destroying the front assembly. So I'm just curious if the motor is wasted; before i put money into it. It's a 21" brigs 5hp Home depot mower with a mulch bag.
 
New blade back on. It doesn't vibrate. The issue is in regards to the front wheel assembly. That's the first thing that I would need to replace, then take it to the shop because when I release the engagement bar, to start and run it, the motor spins down for 3-5 seconds before stopping as opposed to a few turns before, then stopping.
 
I release the engagement bar, to start and run it, the motor spins down for 3-5 seconds before stopping as opposed to a few turns before, then stopping.

sounds like the band brake around the flywheel is out of whack

normally you hold down the bar to release the brake to start/run the engine. you release it and it shorts out the magneto as well as clamping the brake down on the flywheel stopping it quickly. remove the engine cowl and check the cable/linkage between the bar and brake
 
sounds like the band brake around the flywheel is out of whack

normally you hold down the bar to release the brake to start/run the engine. you release it and it shorts out the magneto as well as clamping the brake down on the flywheel stopping it quickly. remove the engine cowl and check the cable/linkage between the bar and brake

I took the front wheel assembly off but I wouldn't know how to do what you are talking about. Do you think it's a cheap fix? If it is I will look into getting a new front wheel assembly and see what it would end up costing. Maybe it isn't worth it, maybe it is.
 
I took the front wheel assembly off but I wouldn't know how to do what you are talking about. Do you think it's a cheap fix? If it is I will look into getting a new front wheel assembly and see what it would end up costing. Maybe it isn't worth it, maybe it is.

i'm assuming this is (was) a self propelled push mower?

do you have pictures of the front end? it's possible to fix it so that it's just a push mower.


around here a push mower goes for ~$20-50, self propelled maybe $50-100 at a garage sale
 
i'm assuming this is (was) a self propelled push mower?

do you have pictures of the front end? it's possible to fix it so that it's just a push mower.


around here a push mower goes for ~$20-50, self propelled maybe $50-100 at a garage sale


just a simple push mower.

IMG_1560_zpsnhtkbfl1.jpg~original
 
wow they don't even make the front end metal anymore?

look up the model and add up the all parts in the front on one of those replacement parts websites

i'm gonna guess it'll be a large percentage of a new one
 
$150 for a new mower; $250 for parts and labor to get the existing back in shape.

you do the math.

that's why i started tearing apart my spare MTD. doesn't have the same deck after pulling off the broken front wheel assembly. The spare doesn't have a bagger..

i agree, i think it's a lost cause
 
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