should I remove the northbridge or just add a fan??

[Pilsnerpete]

Prime95 won't run if I don't have an 80mm fan blowing on the NB of my overclocked gigabyte 5smm machine. A decent OC of about 17%.
It's running fine with the side cover housing the fan turned towards the board. So to be brief, is it worth it to put AS3 paste on the northbridge?
Or better just to screw a Pentium fan onto it.

Option 3: take the speed down a bit.:frown: Thanks for any comments or suggestions!


-->>Pete

 

[BG4533]

Have you already removed the HS and fan that was on their?
You could try Zalmans NB cooler, or this is what I use. As for Artic Silver, it can only really help if applied properly. Just make sure you dont make a mess with it.

Brian

 

[Pilsnerpete]

It's just a passive hs, but I haven't removed it cause I don't know how and what chemicals to use and where to get the paste
to glue it back on.

I never make a mess with Arctic Silver!:Q


-->>Pete

 

[Fallen Kell]

Someone had a guide to doing that around here... Basically you need a hair dryer (one with a hot setting), some alchohol (spelling), an exacto knife, a thin piece of hard plastic or glass (a credit card will do), and a steady hand.

Use the hair dyer to heat up the heatsink on the NB, using the credit card or glass or plastic to shield the rest of the motherboard/components from the heat of the hair dryer. Slowly and carefully use the exacto knife to cut into the paste/epoxy that is between the heatsink and the chip, again using the piece of plastic to shield other components on the motherboard (you don't want to cut through a trace on the motherboard). This will take a little time, and be careful with the exacto knife. The best way is to slowly make your way around the entire outside of the heatsink with the blade, cutting into the epoxy just a little bit at a time. The heat from the hair dryer helps to soften the epoxy a bit, but you need a high heat dryer to really do any good (just remember you can damage the board with too much heat, the board and other components are not usualy subject to high heat). You will eventually be able to work the heatsink off.

Once it is off, you will need to use the alcohol to remove the rest of the epoxy (you may also need to use some sandpaper). Now depending on the NB, you might want to lap it a bit, but lapping a NB is much harder then lapping a heatsink, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

 

[BG4533]

Depending on the Mobo, some NB coolers are very easy to remove. My MSI boards was held on by spring clips. Some are held on by thermal tape (ECS boards and others I believe), this is fairly easy to remove and can usually be removed by just gently twisting the HS. Many boards however have thermal adhesive attaching the HSs. This is difficult to remove.

As for reattaching it, I use Artic Alumina Adhesive, but Artic Silver Adhesive may work slightly better.

Brian

 

[OulOat]

Originally posted by: Fallen Kell
Someone had a guide to doing that around here... Basically you need a hair dryer (one with a hot setting), some alchohol (spelling), an exacto knife, a thin piece of hard plastic or glass (a credit card will do), and a steady hand.

Use the hair dyer to heat up the heatsink on the NB, using the credit card or glass or plastic to shield the rest of the motherboard/components from the heat of the hair dryer. Slowly and carefully use the exacto knife to cut into the paste/epoxy that is between the heatsink and the chip, again using the piece of plastic to shield other components on the motherboard (you don't want to cut through a trace on the motherboard). This will take a little time, and be careful with the exacto knife. The best way is to slowly make your way around the entire outside of the heatsink with the blade, cutting into the epoxy just a little bit at a time. The heat from the hair dryer helps to soften the epoxy a bit, but you need a high heat dryer to really do any good (just remember you can damage the board with too much heat, the board and other components are not usualy subject to high heat). You will eventually be able to work the heatsink off.

Once it is off, you will need to use the alcohol to remove the rest of the epoxy (you may also need to use some sandpaper). Now depending on the NB, you might want to lap it a bit, but lapping a NB is much harder then lapping a heatsink, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Or instead of using an exacto knife, just stick a flat blade screwdriver in there. Give it a quick twist and off pops the hs. The plastic underneath will protect your mobo. Much safer than an exacto in my opinion.

 

[Pilsnerpete]

Thanks for the answers guys! I could probably buy some arctic silver adhesive in town, but my sister has
my truck atm. I threw a big Globalwin Athlon-cooler that I had laying about from an old Duron machine on
the cpu after prying the pos Foxconn hsf off as OulOat recommended (with a screwdriver). Compaq's
suck! The NB is about 1/2 inch (~1.27 cm) from the k6-2 475mhz@550, so the airflow is good now. Hooray!!

Oh! I also turned the blowhole fan around so it points at the m/b.
yall think I'll be able to get this 95 fsb proc to 133 if I lower the multi? It's already .47v over!
I'd never do that to a new cpu!


-->>Pete