Should I add a T-Line?

[Belial88]

Do they make things easier, should I add one? Pretty straightforward.

For more detail, I'm replacing the tubing on an H60 2013 & H110, the H110 will also have an added res. While they are supposed to be closed loops, you are still recommended to replace fluid every 1-2 years, which holds true for closed loops true (they don't mean zero maintenance, it just means ignored maintenance and why they gunk up and die in 2-3+ years).

I thought adding a T-line to the H110+Res loop might help make things easier with draining since taking apart the reservoir while in system might be a pain, and adding a T-line to the H60 might make things easier for draining and filling.

I have enough space in my system that I can make both T-lines super long and hidden, then I can orient them up or down or however you're supposed to do with them when the time comes to do whatever.

I was also wondering if they add any restriction or cause any issues at all.

Thanks.

 

[zhuks]

There really is no point in a T when using a reservoir.

 

[Belial88]

Well, I plan to use a top inlet, so the point of the reservoir is kind of lost, utility wise.

 

[BrightCandle]

I would recommend adding a drain line. Most reservoirs are easy enough to fill loops with but its a good idea having a t line at the bottom of your loop to exit the water easily. Makes pulling the loop apart a lot faster.

 

[Belial88]

Is it hard to drain otherwise? Cant I just put like a cover over the bottom, some paper towel around, and just unscrew one of the port covers?

 

[BrightCandle]

I have done without a drain line many times. Its a pain in the backside though because the water is all going to flow out immediately. So what you need to do is have something to catch the water underneath. Assuming everything is stuck in your case that likely means you need to hold the component, the pipe and the bowl not to mention the fact you might need a screw driver to pry the pipe off the barb. All in all its a dance that requires more hands than you have.

A drain line on the other hand you turn the ball valve and drain it into your bowl/bottle and then you can go about removing the pipe from the barbs without concern for water flowing out.

I now use a drain line about mid way up, so the very bottom (radiators and fans) don't get drained but everything else does. Cuts a lot of faff out of the parts replacement dance, its still a pain but its no where near as bad as without it and the cost of a drain line is minimal (valve + T piece + a small bit of pipe and a couple of barbs).

 

[Belial88]

Well I'm not too worried about draining, I'll have enough slack to pull the res out enough of the case to put it in something.

I have concerns about filling/bleeding my system though as I propose it.

First, how do I fill it. Can I just unscrew the top (rotary fitting there) and just pour in fluid? I would just have to tape/hold the top/inlet so it pours into the res as I test-run it. What if I use a length of ~2ft dead end tubing coming from the bottom of the res, I could raise it above the res water line and just fill it that way right?

But what about bleeding? Would that length of tube be able to bleed the system, or would a pocket of air get stuck at the top of the res? Would that even be an issue? I dont have a super strong pump, i have the weak clc pump, so I dont think bubbles and such is an issue, but I could get one of those 'aquatubes' if they are necessary.