screwed up AMD XP 1600+ multiplier lock change

[Wiz]

I did it, bought the XP OC kit from www.highspeedpc.com and tried to OC my XP 1600+

I thought I'd shoot for 2000+ on it, so I got the image and directions at www.ocinside.de and went for it.
Changing from 1800+ to 2000+ looks easy enough, you just connect the first two sets of L4 and cut the second two sets.
I thought I did this, but I start the machine and it says it's an Athlon 1133
I cleaned off the stuff several times and did it over several times. No progress.

Anybody want to make a suggestion?

Installing the OS now, maybe afterwards I'll pull the cpu and try again.

Thanks.

 

[Freewolf]

Did you check the fsb setting in the bios ?Some default to 100 when first booted up. You probably know this already but thought you might have overlooked it .

 

[Evadman]

That is an 8.5 mult. Wierd.

 

[Swanny]

Like Freewolf said, did you check the FSB settings?

 

[Wiz]

yeah, it comes up at 133 / 33

 

[Wiz]

Check this out, WIndows properties says it's a 2200+ at 1.13 Ghz!!!
WTF???
Here is a shot: 2200???

So what's going on here??

I have seti running now, that will tell me how fast it's really running.

 

[CADsortaGUY]

Could it be that your board (bios) doesn't "support" a XP2000+ or higher? what board is it? The only reason I ask is because you can get goofy readings if your bios "doesn't" know what chip it is supposed to be.

What did you set the multiplier to on the chip during the unlocking? -or what multiplier were you trying to set it at?

 

[Wiz]

I just flashed the bios and will see if it helped.

 

[Smoke]

You could try SiSandra and see what it reports. The SETI CPU time would be another good way to see what the chip is really running.

Very strange.

At least you can wipe off the stuff where you joined the bridges and I guess you could use the OC Kit to fix the bridge(s) you cut if you ever wanted to just go back to default. Hmm, just thinking out loud.

 

[deerslayer]

Very strange

 

[dmcowen674]

Talk about Good news/bad news. Good that it says 2200+ but at only 1.13??? As Grweg said Sissoft Sandra would tell you what exactly the CPU core and FSB of the motherboard are doing. I would suspect that it is at 1.13 as before you flashed the BIOS it was reporting as a regular Athlon at 1.13. Hopefully you can set your FSB beyond 133.

 

[Wiz]

After the bios flash Windows properties stopped saying 2200+ and just says 'AMD Athlon(TM)'
Sandra says it's running at 1133mhz too.
I took it out last night and tried again, same results as before.
I'm getting pretty good seti times with it, but I know it's just not right.
Maybe I'll take it out and mess with it some more, I don't know right now. I'll update this if I do any more with it.

 

[Insidious]

Can you manually set the multiplier to the original value?

It should still be available to you. (the hoz0red un-lock should only add additional allowed multipliers)

 

[Assimilator1]

SETIspy will give you the true cpu mhz

Btw Wiz you might want to read this thread by me ,after a partially failed unlock I cleaned off the bridges to return it to default & my XP1600 thought it was an XP1500! ,turned out I hadn't cleaned things off properly.
When I cleaned it off again very carefully it returned back to its proper speed

 

[Wiz]

I tried setting a new locked mult by changing the L4 to

| | - -

from the standard 1600+ ( - - | | ) by cutting the two right side sets and filling the gaps then joining the two left pairs with the conductive goo.

First, did I have the right understanding? Or was I only supposed to fill in the left side pairs?

 

[dmcowen674]

Your a brave man Wiz, I haven't messed with any of the lands on a CPU yet until I get an "extra" one to play with, right now I am fortunate to have one 1600+ in my main rig with an old ASUS board and through CMOS settings alone getting 1.54 out of it. Just under 300 MHZ out of the FSB set at 147 (X2) and PCI bus at 37.

 

[Wiz]

Well it is ranging from 3:52 - 4:32 per WU which is about on par for a non overclocked 1600+ I believe
My 1800+ is ranging from 3:32 - 4:20 per WU.

I'd like to know if I am reading the interactive painting guide right.
Please look at this pic and tell me if I did it right

What I did is cut the bottom two pairs and first seal then connect the top two pairs of L4.
Is that what the image is saying to do?

 

[Smoke]

Looks like you followed the guideline as the visual tells you.

Did you check to see if you have the latest BIOS for that motherboard? One of the things that BIOS updates do is enable the motherboard to recognize additional CPUs. But I know you are aware of that.

Are you using a pretty strong magnifying glass to check your "cuts" and "bridges"? The tiniest bit of goop will mess things up.

 

[Wiz]

yeah, thanks. I am using the magnifier that came with the kit and a strong light source.
One thing I though, am I supposed to do any scraping of the contact points to make sure there is no coating over it before applying the conductive goo?

 

[Assimilator1]

Wiz
Clean off all your bridges you've joined & clean out both the pits you've filled.
Use a mag glass & very lightly scratch away around all bridge contacts & also clean out the pits.Thus removing any possible invisible contacts that could be giving you wrong multipliers.Once you've done that refill the pits & rejoin the bridges(after allowing the glue to set).
Btw what did you use to fill the pits?
Make real sure you did cut the bridges properly,look at this table ,it would suggest that your 2nd L4 isn't closed & that your 4th L4 isn't cut properly

[edit]lol answered your question

 

[Wiz]

Thanks assim, that's what I thought too so I went back and really cut that 4th sucker - probably too much
At least I'm getting some pretty good seti wu time out of the thing, ranging from 3:52 - 4:32 per WU.
I'll try again like you say a little later today.

 

[Assimilator1]

Good luck!

BTw ,I've yet to rejoin my L1 bridges ,I may try that tomorrow

 

[Smoke]

The trick I use to clean the bridges is to use a pencil's eraser. I've worn out several erasers this way.

 

[Wiz]

ok, I will give that a try - I started wondering if maybe there was a coating over those contact points.