(Sautering)FC-PGA2 Socket 370 broken

[murphyslabrat]

Okee, a friend has a broken socket on his board.

This board functions perfectly well, except for the above information. However, we have a few broken Socket 370 boards. So, would we be able to desauter the existing socket and replace it with one from a spare(broken board). So, how difficult would it be, as well as what equipment-aside from sauter and a sautering iron-is needed?

While we can practice on the broken board(s), how risky of an operation would it be? And would having a working PIII-S 1.266 PC be worth the trouble.

 

[PottedMeat]

...solder right?

It's possible... with a lot of careful work.
You probably want to do this cheaply so get a $10 heat gun and see if you can get the socket off without scorching/burning/delaminating the motherboard.

The most difficult part will be removing the broken socket without screwing up the board. In heating to remove the socket nearby components will probably become loose and may fall off.

It's probably not worth it.

 

[murphyslabrat]

O.k., as it is working...would you recommend any method of(safely, not talking rubber bands here-like my friend has been doing)securing the HS/F to the board?

 

[MrDudeMan]

its not worth it. it will be very difficult to remove the previous, broken socket without lifting pads/breaking vias or damaging the board in general. this is most definitely not a good starter project for soldering.

 

[Leros]

You would be better off not buying a soldering iron and just buying a new board. You should be able get a used Socket 370 board for fairly cheap.

 

[murphyslabrat]

you would be suprised. ANY Tualatin capable board costs at least $40 bucks, even used! you might as well just go build a new computer. I am looking for(monetarily) free fixes.

As for the iron, I already have it. As I said before, I use it fairly regularly. My question is not can it be done, would it be profitable to do. It is: are the risks worth this extreme measure? And I think that has been answered.

Next question, would you recommend a method of securing a HS/F? Something that would have enough pressure to be dependable at 1.2/1.266...Maybe at a moderate overclock as well, but I don't expect that at ALL.

 

[HVAC]

You need a "solder sucker" and/or some copper braiding. With the solder sucker, you heat up a pin until the solder gets runny, then put the sucker over it and activate it. It uses a vacuum to suck the liquified solder into it.

With copper braiding, you heat the solder until runny and touch the solder with the copper braid. The copper braid will absorb the solder.

Do this to all the pins.

If you are REAL #(*@)-ing lucky the socket will no longer be attached to the board when you complete the final pin. Mostly, though, one is left with a majority of pins still stuck because the solder sucker or the copper braid didn't get 100% of the solder from each pin.

I used to solder by hand all the time at work, and even with an 8 pin DIP socket, I could end up wrestling with it before getting it out.

I don't even want to talk about BGAs or any other surface mount device where the soldering point is under the device.....

 

[murphyslabrat]

O.k., thanks for the advice. Ideally, I don't want to have to break the board or buy new stuff, but if I can get a working(decent) pc for $30, sure

 

[ebaycj]

Originally posted by: murphyslabrat
you would be suprised. ANY Tualatin capable board costs at least $40 bucks, even used! you might as well just go build a new computer. I am looking for(monetarily) free fixes.

As for the iron, I already have it. As I said before, I use it fairly regularly. My question is not can it be done, would it be profitable to do. It is: are the risks worth this extreme measure? And I think that has been answered.

Next question, would you recommend a method of securing a HS/F? Something that would have enough pressure to be dependable at 1.2/1.266...Maybe at a moderate overclock as well, but I don't expect that at ALL.

It may be worth it if you value your free time at $0/hr.

 

[ebaycj]

http://www.saveateagle.com/wbmb277-v78....pn=Froogle&ovcrn=WBMB277-V78&ovtac=CMP

 

[bobsmith1492]

If you really want to sauter your motherboard, it shouldn't be that hard... you'd just need a big pan:

Sauter

\Sau`ter"\, v. t. [F., properly, to jump.] To fry lightly and quickly, as meat, by turning or tossing it over frequently in a hot pan greased with a little fat.
(Dictionary.com)

 

[natto fire]

Ok, I am starting to wonder if there is some sort of regional difference as to what is normally called solder? This is the second thread as of recent that has used the exact same (incorrect to my knowledge) spelling. Anyone care to elaborate further on this?

OP: Sure it is possible to do, not really worth it IMO, but possible. As for the heatsink, you are pretty limited on your mounting methods, it will probably have to be a hack-fix, such as the rubber bands your friend is suggesting, but the whole project is technically a hack-fix so...

 

[Fallen Kell]

You are going to fry whatever CPU you put in that socket if you try and do it manually. The pin spacing and soldering points are too close together to do this by hand with a soldering iron. You can probably remove the socket without much difficulty, but installing the new one is going to be your problem. You will need to heat all 370 solder points up to temperature at the same time to insert the new socket. This is why a specialized machine at the motherboard manufacturing place is built with a specialized soldering head which has iron tips for each of all the 370 points to be soldered.

The best that you could do would be to use a breadboard or similar customized board where you could solder each of the pins individually from the socket to a line on the breadboard and then solder another wire from the motherboard to the breadboard which connects the corresponding solder point on the motherboard with the correct wire on the socket. Even this will probably not work because you just introduced additional delay into the circuit layout due to the added length of time it will take the signal to reach the CPU, as well as the loss of voltage/amperage over those additional solder points.

 

[Matthias99]

Ok, I am starting to wonder if there is some sort of regional difference as to what is normally called solder? This is the second thread as of recent that has used the exact same (incorrect to my knowledge) spelling. Anyone care to elaborate further on this?

Both threads were started by the same poster. Apparently the comments in the first thread were not enough to deter him from spelling it wrong again.

I've heard slight pronunciation differences, but it's always spelled "solder".