Question Ryzen 3600x Heat Issues. 93c-95c HELP!

[gpimlott]

I am hoping that someone can help with my heating issues.
I am starting to experience shutdowns due to extreme chip overheating.
Some stats..
Windows 1903 with Ryzen balanced plan enabled.
Corsair H100i AIO water cooling. installed with arctic MX-4 Thermal Paste (maybe put on a touch thick but could not result in these extreme temps)
Corsair Link set to Performance air settings.,
Latest Chipset drivers from AMD page.
Latest MB Bios. - asus Aorus x570 ultra board Bios f5 ( there are a cpl newer bios updates but the MB software doesnt see them as newest and the descriptions for them don't necessarily pertain to my issue.
Bios set to defaults..
Corsair Carbide case.. plenty of airflow

https://imgur.com/a/dwq46OG

 

[Markfw]

Somehow that AIO must be mounted improperly. I had this issue once with my 3900x. I took it off, rechecked everything, and remounted it. Somehow it was not making fll contact. I see its doing 88c with a max of 0.5 ghz, so its already throttling, so its either a defective AIO, or bad mounting. The stock 3600 heatsink would do better.

IMO

 

[Arkaign]

Agree with Mark. Do you have the stock HSF or a spare 212 or such to try? I'm not really a fan of WC as a whole for various reasons, but that setup should in no way be anywhere near that hot.

 

[gpimlott]

Thanks.. I did install the stock AMD Wraith fan... seems to be keeping cool.
Either I did install the water block unevenly or something crapped out internally with the pump.
It is about 4 years old and an All in one.. worked fine when It took it off for the upgrade.
also seemed to work find for the last 2 weeks.. and the software showed it pumping properly with the heat temp on the waterblock also raising in temp.
that is the only reason I did not immediately home in on that for the cause.
I will play around with the water block and a fresh coat of thermal and report back.
but I am sitting around 40c right now.. so clearly it was a waterblock issue.
Thanks for the quick response im just happy its not an RMA situation.
~G

 

[Markfw]

Thanks.. I did install the stock AMD Wraith fan... seems to be keeping cool.
Either I did install the water block unevenly or something crapped out internally with the pump.
It is about 4 years old and an All in one.. worked fine when It took it off for the upgrade.
also seemed to work find for the last 2 weeks.. and the software showed it pumping properly with the heat temp on the waterblock also raising in temp.
that is the only reason I did not immediately home in on that for the cause.
I will play around with the water block and a fresh coat of thermal and report back.
but I am sitting around 40c right now.. so clearly it was a waterblock issue.
Thanks for the quick response im just happy its not an RMA situation.
~G

The good thing here, and you just proved it again, even with no cooling, that CPU will downclock to save itself, and so your worries about RMA (and possibly on the motherboard also) will probably never happen. The key was me seeing that 500 mhz speed, it never goes that low except for heat.

 

[Topweasel]

3 things. Even with the pump dead I am not sure you would see temps that high and at speed that low. It implies that heatspreader is not making contact or at least not making contact close enough the the CPU cores. Second is the 2 reasons we do a pea sized thermal compound. The first is that if everything is perfect, metal on metal contact is generally thermally better the compound is because that neither one is perfect and the compund fills in microscopic gaps that could lead to hot pockets that heat gets trapped in so the thinner the label the better. The second reason is that a thin pea can show how the HSF (or pump in this case) is applying pressure to the chip. In Theory the compound should be almost gone (really really really thin) in the points with the highest contact. If you don't see that then the HSF is probably making poor contact. Now the third and this is more of a Topweasel recommendation is to do a decent pea in the center (io die) and smaller peas where the CCD's are (you would only have the top one, my 3900x would have 2). This makes sure you have a point of compound for the HSF to push away where the cores are.

I would leave the fans unplugged and plug in the AIO to power on the board (and the sata power connector) and listen closely to hear if the pump is going or making any wierd sounds.

 

[Arkaign]

If your h100 is indeed on to the great tech graveyard, then I might recommend (with a dash of personal bias and much personal experience) a large air cooler setup? Generally the pricing is quite competitive with water, and outside of relatively extreme situations you get as good or better results for normal gaming rigs, including low noise.

The main reason I prefer it is that it's less components to deal with, and the worst thing that can happen is a dead fan, which is easy to replace. And with something like a Noctua 14 or 15, the heatsink and heatpipes are so good that just ambient case airflow can keep you operational. When I had my devil's canyon @ 4.8 under a 212, I forgot to plug in a fan after moving everything into a new case. Used it like that for months before noticing lol.

Ymmv and personal preference of course. And custom loops and especially putting certain GPUs under water is rewarding. I just find the smaller CPU AIOs to be pointless.

 

[VirtualLarry]

When I had my devil's canyon @ 4.8 under a 212, I forgot to plug in a fan after moving everything into a new case. Used it like that for months before noticing lol.

LOL. Much like, when I was doing DC on my Phenom II X6 1045T CPU @ 3.2Ghz, with a 92mm OCZ Vendetta fan, that had... seized up, a few weeks earlier, from fine dust getting in the bearings, apparently. So, my CPU temp when I finally noticed, was like 83C. Which is a bit on the high side for a Phenom II X6. (Max operational temp 76-78C, I think?) Anyways, it didn't crash! Quite amazing, I think.

 

[Arkaign]

Check this out

LOL. Much like, when I was doing DC on my Phenom II X6 1045T CPU @ 3.2Ghz, with a 92mm OCZ Vendetta fan, that had... seized up, a few weeks earlier, from fine dust getting in the bearings, apparently. So, my CPU temp when I finally noticed, was like 83C. Which is a bit on the high side for a Phenom II X6. (Max operational temp 76-78C, I think?) Anyways, it didn't crash! Quite amazing, I think.

LOL nice! Yeah it's rewarding to feel that your build is robust enough to take a bad fan and keep right on trucking at rated speeds.

Check the video above I find many people are surprised that good air is better than mid-range water cooling.

 

[Kenmitch]

80.4 ° C water temp? Bad pump most likely.

Maybe you have a air bubble trapped in the pump? I guess after years of use some of the coolant may have evaporated. Tilting the rig on it's side for a minute or two could eliminate it. Nothing really to loose by trying it and seeing if it helps.

 

[chrisjames61]

I can't for the life of me see the fascination with closed loop coolers. A good air cooler of the right size for the job with a good fan or fans will never fail you.

 

[Markfw]

I can't for the life of me see the fascination with closed loop coolers. A good air cooler of the right size for the job with a good fan or fans will never fail you.

One reason.... My first 1800x I tried to put in the Noctura 15 something cooler. I could not get it in the case since it was so big. I ended up trying 3 different cases and gave up. Its sitting here unused, a $90 cooler I can't use because its so BIG.

 

[UsandThem]

One reason.... My first 1800x I tried to put in the Noctura 15 something cooler. I could not get it in the case since it was so big. I ended up trying 3 different cases and gave up. Its sitting here unused, a $90 cooler I can't use because its so BIG.

You just have to have the right case. Even a smaller cooler like the NH-U14S can be too tall for many cases (165mm) as I found with the Fractal Design Define C. That case said it supported coolers up to 172mm, but I'm going to call bull-crap on that claim. I ended up having to use a 120mm fan instead of the included NF-A15 PWM fan which prevented the side panel from going on.

It fits perfectly in my Dark Base 900.

 

[Markfw]

You just have to have the right case. Even a smaller cooler like the NH-U14S can be too tall for many cases (165mm) as I found with the Fractal Design Define C. That case said it supported coolers up to 172mm, but I'm going to call bull-crap on that claim. I ended up having to use a 120mm fan instead of the included NF-A15 PWM fan which prevented the side panel from going on.

It fits perfectly in my Dark Base 900.

The problem was not the height, it was at the top of the case. I could not clip on the fans, no clearance to work around the sides. And I had to remove the cooler to change the PSU due to the 8 and 4 pin connectors.

 

[gpimlott]

3 things. Even with the pump dead I am not sure you would see temps that high and at speed that low. It implies that heatspreader is not making contact or at least not making contact close enough the the CPU cores. Second is the 2 reasons we do a pea sized thermal compound. The first is that if everything is perfect, metal on metal contact is generally thermally better the compound is because that neither one is perfect and the compund fills in microscopic gaps that could lead to hot pockets that heat gets trapped in so the thinner the label the better. The second reason is that a thin pea can show how the HSF (or pump in this case) is applying pressure to the chip. In Theory the compound should be almost gone (really really really thin) in the points with the highest contact. If you don't see that then the HSF is probably making poor contact. Now the third and this is more of a Topweasel recommendation is to do a decent pea in the center (io die) and smaller peas where the CCD's are (you would only have the top one, my 3900x would have 2). This makes sure you have a point of compound for the HSF to push away where the cores are.

I would leave the fans unplugged and plug in the AIO to power on the board (and the sata power connector) and listen closely to hear if the pump is going or making any wierd sounds.

Thanks for the extra info.. I will grab some more thermal compount this weekend and give the AIO another chance..
I appreciate some of the trouble shooting tips and will report back in case someone else comes across this thread in the future.
~G

 

[gpimlott]

If your h100 is indeed on to the great tech graveyard, then I might recommend (with a dash of personal bias and much personal experience) a large air cooler setup? Generally the pricing is quite competitive with water, and outside of relatively extreme situations you get as good or better results for normal gaming rigs, including low noise.

The main reason I prefer it is that it's less components to deal with, and the worst thing that can happen is a dead fan, which is easy to replace. And with something like a Noctua 14 or 15, the heatsink and heatpipes are so good that just ambient case airflow can keep you operational. When I had my devil's canyon @ 4.8 under a 212, I forgot to plug in a fan after moving everything into a new case. Used it like that for months before noticing lol.

Ymmv and personal preference of course. And custom loops and especially putting certain GPUs under water is rewarding. I just find the smaller CPU AIOs to be pointless.

I will do some research on the stock air cooler vs Noctua options.
My only issue is that my case (Corsair Carbide) has a perfect spot made for the AIO radiator. so if it is anywhere near the same performance as the Noctua. I will probably just replace.. that is assuming it is Dead.
~G

 

[Arkaign]

I will do some research on the stock air cooler vs Noctua options.
My only issue is that my case (Corsair Carbide) has a perfect spot made for the AIO radiator. so if it is anywhere near the same performance as the Noctua. I will probably just replace.. that is assuming it is Dead.
~G

Cool cool.

What kind of GPU do you run? If the current h100 is deceased, you could perhaps run a new setup using a Noctua for the CPU, and a radiator/pump/block for the GPU. This could dramatically improve your GPU performance and noise, while moderately improving CPU thermals as well under the Noctua. And as the DH14/15 are both good enough for silent operation (for all practical purposes with ambient room noise), you could end up with an effectively dead quiet system.

Some GPUs I find to be fairly quiet even under load (1050/1060/1650/1660/460/560) depending on exact model, I also find higher end models to be either slightly noisy at load or annoyingly loud at load.

What GPU do you use? Gaming or rendering or anything like that?

 

[Arkaign]

PS, posted up above is a review of the Noctua vs WC. Basically the air cooler is a fair bit better, so whichever is cheaper is the winner, provided it fits ok. The carbide should easily allow for it, though I find it easiest to attach the ATX supplemental 12V 8 pin before mounting the board, as it becomes difficult to reach the corner of the board with the Noctua in place.

 

[gpimlott]

PS, posted up above is a review of the Noctua vs WC. Basically the air cooler is a fair bit better, so whichever is cheaper is the winner, provided it fits ok. The carbide should easily allow for it, though I find it easiest to attach the ATX supplemental 12V 8 pin before mounting the board, as it becomes difficult to reach the corner of the board with the Noctua in place.

Good call.
I don't think I would try and cobble the AIO cooler onto the Video card. (1080 TI sc) so I will either stick with stock for now or back to the AIO if it is working and I just didn't seat it properly.. Easy enough to swap back and forth luckily due to the Corsair Case having a cut out on the backside for easy CPU cooler mounting.

I seems from researching the different options.. unless overclocking.. the Noctua will only gain me a smidgeon of performance increase.. and the main attraction is being able to quiet down the case compared to the stock Wraith cooler. I couldn't find a sound comparison between a 280mm AIO cooler vs the Noctua. I am guessing they would be comparable at rest and at load.
~G

 

[Arkaign]

Yep, both extremely quiet to the point of being practically silent. Certainly the 1080ti noise would be noticable before the radiator fans/pump, or those ghostly Noctua fans. If you've already got one or the other in working order, that's the right thing to stick with. The gap isn't worth stressing over. In a new build scenario, going Noctua if you can fit it is great because it's silent, and works as well or better than $100-$200 AIOs.

Should you ever feel like going water on the 1080ti, you'd be in great shape. It's extremely well supported with nice kits, and drops noise to a whisper even loaded pretty heavy. Maybe tuck it in your hat should a fan start going wonky down the road. I can understand the intimidating nature of uncasing the thing though. There are some great videos showing before and after and the install process available.

 

[chrisjames61]

One reason.... My first 1800x I tried to put in the Noctura 15 something cooler. I could not get it in the case since it was so big. I ended up trying 3 different cases and gave up. Its sitting here unused, a $90 cooler I can't use because its so BIG.

That is a factor that you can't work around lol.

 

[Kocicak]

Have you removed the protective plastic foil on the waterblock?

 

[Hans Gruber]

The proper way to apply thermal paste. They say a pea size drop but a liberal amount of a pea size drop is fine. A flat razor blade and paint the entire heatsink with thermal paste. I don't want to start an argument with AIO vs. Air cooling. Considering we all came from air coolers. People say Noctua this and Noctua that. Those things are massive and accessing ram or any components is a hassle and a pain.

If the OP's pump is indeed functioning correctly. He didn't mount the AIO correctly. It took me 3 to 5 minutes to swap out a Ryzen CPU for another Ryzen CPU using an AIO. With air it would take 20 or 30 minutes with a big cooler.

Using an AIO almost makes your case appear empty and sparse inside compared to those giant Noctua beasts. I always have a 212+ NIB waiting in the wings if I need it.

 

[gpimlott]

The proper way to apply thermal paste. They say a pea size drop but a liberal amount of a pea size drop is fine. A flat razor blade and paint the entire heatsink with thermal paste. I don't want to start an argument with AIO vs. Air cooling. Considering we all came from air coolers. People say Noctua this and Noctua that. Those things are massive and accessing ram or any components is a hassle and a pain.

If the OP's pump is indeed functioning correctly. He didn't mount the AIO correctly. It took me 3 to 5 minutes to swap out a Ryzen CPU for another Ryzen CPU using an AIO. With air it would take 20 or 30 minutes with a big cooler.

Using an AIO almost makes your case appear empty and sparse inside compared to those giant Noctua beasts. I always have a 212+ NIB waiting in the wings if I need it.

Yeah.. I will update the thread if the AIO checks out.. Being a closed system. I wasn't sure what happens with age.. Air Bubbles. Corrosion, mineral Deposits etc..
I do like the sparseness of this case (corsair carbide air 540) it's a big cube with room for hard drives hidden on the backside of the MB divider.

Oh and I almost forgot.. I have a 212+ sitting here also scavenged from an old build in a Lian Li case. I would have to order an AMD mounting kit for it.. but it was a great Air cooler back in the day.
~G

 

[StefanR5R]

80.4 ° C water temp? Bad pump most likely.

Maybe you have a air bubble trapped in the pump?

Or dirt or corrosion product clogging the channels of the waterblock.