Rusty gas tank on tractor...

[mvbighead]

Just look for someone who may have experience in this sort of thing. I've done some digging and it seems I need POR15 fuel tank sealer. Just not sure of the quantity that would be necessary for a 7 or so gallon tank on an Allis Chalmers WD45.

Also, it seems I'll need to do some rust removal before applying the product. I've read methods that involve vinegar (weak acid), muriatic acid, toilet bowl cleaner, etc. I am actually leaning towards electrolysis, but I am a bit leery when it involves a gas tank. In addition to electrolysis, I may throw some nuts and bolts into the tank and shake it about to clear any large debris.

Then seal with POR15 fuel tank sealer, but I have no idea how much to get. Seems to be some pretty expensive stuff, with a quart going for $40 on Amazon.

As it is, the tank is drained, but I still need to remove it. Anyone done something similar? Any good suggestions? I'd like this to be as inexpensive as possible.

 

[JeffreyLebowski]

I think the quart size is good for up to a 25 gallon tank.

http://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-TANK-SEALER/productinfo/TSG/

Directions:
http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/fuel tank sealer pdf.pdf

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

POR15 in my experience spreads really easily. Although, I have never used gas tank stuff, so... ya.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

In my experience dealing with old motorcycles... Just pay a radiator shop to do it. For one or two tanks, it's not worth the chemicals and equipment.

Call around and ask them if they do gas tanks..

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

In my experience dealing with old motorcycles... Just pay a radiator shop to do it. For one or two tanks, it's not worth the chemicals and equipment.

Call around and ask them if they do gas tanks..

Ya, this may actually be your best bet.

Maybe finding a place to dip it in acid be the best?? Just a thought, because my neighbour had an old rusty milk can she wanted cleaned, so she took it to somewhere they do acid dips and she said it came out sparkling clean within minutes and barely costed anything to do.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

The acid dips work, but only if you can keep the tank completely full after that to prevent corrosion. For a tractor that (likely) sits for a week or longer, I would personally have it coated.

Is it possible to replace it with a plastic tank?

 

[mvbighead]

The acid dips work, but only if you can keep the tank completely full after that to prevent corrosion. For a tractor that (likely) sits for a week or longer, I would personally have it coated.

Is it possible to replace it with a plastic tank?

Not likely.

For the most part, I do at least plan on coating it, sooner or later. Just trying to find a way to thoroughly clean it, whether by chemical or otherwise.

One suggestion I found involved pea gravel or aquarium rocks, and dumping some into the fuel tank (when removed of course), and then wrapping it in a towel and inserting it into a drier to rotate it for a while. Basically getting the rocks to scrub the interior thoroughly.

I've read enough to think that chemicals (acids etc) will clean it, but leave it more susceptible to further corrosion. Hence the POR15 fuel tank sealer. As it is, if I can clean it myself, whether by rock, acid, or electrolysis, and then por15 the inside to prevent further problems, that'd be best.

As it is, it seems a replacement used tank runs $100+, and will likely be in no better or worse shape than this one. Since these tractors were made in the 50s, I'd like to do what I can to not have buy a replacement that is just as bad as this.

Problem is, I get rust chunks that plug the fuel lines/sediment bulb and makes running the thing impossible.

EDIT: I just want to get the tank permanently/semi-permanently fixed so that rust isn't an issue in the gas.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

I would not do anything with pea gravel or any abrasive material. Most gas tanks aren't all that thick in the first place, and anything like that will remove some of the 'good' material along with the rust.

...Personally, I would install an in-line fuel filter (something easily accessible) and get it coated by a radiator shop. You could dump out/shake out the rust, then fill it with gas, then install a filter and it should be fine for awhile until you can get it coated.. particularly for an engine of that vintage.

 

[mvbighead]

I would not do anything with pea gravel or any abrasive material. Most gas tanks aren't all that thick in the first place, and anything like that will remove some of the 'good' material along with the rust.

...Personally, I would install an in-line fuel filter (something easily accessible) and get it coated by a radiator shop. You could dump out/shake out the rust, then fill it with gas, then install a filter and it should be fine for awhile until you can get it coated.. particularly for an engine of that vintage.

Problem is, that is what the sediment bulb is supposed to (basically), but it seems that it is getting stuck prior to the fuel line. When the fuel line is disconnected from the carb, when plugged, fuel trickles out. When properly flowing, the line is full and flowing out. The easiest way to unplug it is to force air back through the line to clear the blockage.

The problem is, the blockage comes right back rather quickly as it's a gravity fed fuel system, which gravity also causes the rust to settle at the bottom of the tank, and thus plug up the feed to the settlement bulb, and then I have to take the line off and blow air up the line again. I'd simply like to clean the interior of the tank as thoroughly as possible so as to prevent the possibility of chunks of rust causing a blockage in the immediate future.

As for the thickness of the tank, it does seem to be fairly thick. The idea of the aquarium rocks being that the softer rust material will be "scrubbed" but the tank will be polished clean. Honestly, it sounds like a better process than acid as acid would seem to do something to everything it contacts, and it is recommended that it be left for no more than 24-48 hours. If they're worried about it being in there too long, I can only assume that it affects everything, whereas the pebble method shouldn't actually do too much damage to the surface. After all, the rock is merely sliding around on the surface. It shouldn't actually damage anything unless the rust is already that bad.

At this point, I am pretty sure I'll be buying the POR15 tank sealer product, as it is highly reviewed, and seems to be a long term solution. I'll probably apply as many coats as I can with whatever amount I buy (pint/quart most likely).

I'll call around to a couple radiator shops to see what they'd charge to coat the tank. If they can quote it out right, I may just have to go that route.

 

[DietDrThunder]

I had rust in the gas tank that was clocking up my carbs of my '63 Chevy. The hardest part was pulling the tank. I then took it to a radiator shop, had them boil it out and seal it. Cost me a whole $90 and all I had to do was re-install it.

 

[mvbighead]

I had rust in the gas tank that was clocking up my carbs of my '63 Chevy. The hardest part was pulling the tank. I then took it to a radiator shop, had them boil it out and seal it. Cost me a whole $90 and all I had to do was re-install it.

Thanks for the number. Nice to have a figure ahead of time to know how reasonable they are being.

 

[deadken]

Check out gas tank renu: http://gastankrenu.com/loc-dealer.htm.

They split the tank, clean it, coat each half, weld it back together, and coat it again. It's not cheap, but it is guaranteed for life. I think it was around $350 for the tank I was looking to have done (13 gallon auto tank) not including me shipping the tank to them. They do have locations across the country which will honor the guarantee.

EDIT: Ooops, sorry. I totally missed the last line in your post.

 

[Mandres]

I used the POR15 kit on an old motorcycle tank and it worked great. I etched with muriatic acid, rinsed and rinsed, dried and then coated with the epoxy.

It was easy, and inexpensive (maybe $50 total including the acid?). That said it took all morning to do because of all the steps and some cleanup of nasty chemicals.

Next time, I'll call a good radiator shop first and see what they charge to do it.

 

[mvbighead]

Check out gas tank renu: http://gastankrenu.com/loc-dealer.htm.

They split the tank, clean it, coat each half, weld it back together, and coat it again. It's not cheap, but it is guaranteed for life. I think it was around $350 for the tank I was looking to have done (13 gallon auto tank) not including me shipping the tank to them. They do have locations across the country which will honor the guarantee.

While I appreciate the feedback, that definitely moves well past the cheap part I was looking for.

From what I've read, the POR15 product is a (semi-)permanent fix. Should last well longer than the tractor, and if not, can be done again in 10-15 years. If I can do that for $50 vs shipping it somewhere, I'll do that.

Now, a radiator shop on the other hand... that I still need to look into but if I can get it done local for around or under $100, that'd be the wisest route, IMO.