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Ruh-oh. I think my IP35-E might be acting up.

nerp

Diamond Member
Maybe it's BIOS 18.

Recently, my system has been acting up.

Couple times recently, trying to resume from hibernation/sleep, I just get a blinking cursor in the top left corner. If I sit and wait 15 minutes i EVENTUALLY get to the login screen but the OS is chugging really bad and it takes a while for things to get back up to speed. Not good.

Other night, I'm in bed, the news is on, woman and I are cuddling up, the machine is idle and is supposed to be going to sleep at some point. Glance over, the HD LED is flat-out solid. Just solidly lit.

I sit there and stare at it for a few minutes. Ok, not even a flicker. It's not defrag or anything. I get out of bed, much to the chagrin of the woman, and check and see what's up. The system seems to be behaving OK, but the solid HD led has me worried. I reboot. . . . It POSTS ok but just when it's supposed to get rid of the Abit logo and start booting windows, nothing happens. Just sits there. doing nothing. Ehhhh... Force hard shutdown, wait two seconds, power up, things are fine.

Ok, so today, I come home, get some stuff going, start streaming some live cnn feed on the second monitor, utorrent is busy, fire up outlook, fire up IE.. things are OK when all of a sudden I get a huge stutter, the screen gets choppy, I hear the audio of the CNN stream get choppy like someone is putting it through some crazy techno filter.. And bing! the HD led is solid again. PC works OK but the damn led is solid!

Shut down, count to 10, power back up, things are normal.

NOthing has changed, my OC is fine, everything is as it has been. The only change I can see recently is BIOS 18.

What's going on? Is it time for a new board? Ugh. If I have to get a new board I have some problems.

1) my Tuniq 120's blackplate is glued to the PCB. I might have to rip it off and deal with a backplate without the sticky material on it. Blah.

2) new mobo means I'm going to be very tempted to get a new CPU. E5200 or maybe E8400 or something. Money. 😛

3) I really want a new video card and not spend money on a new board.

4) if new board, which one? P35? P45? Gigabyte? MSI? I don't want to touch ASUS. Sorry.

5) Maybe I should just downgrade to BIOS 17 and forget about this 18 stuff and see if the problem goes away.

6) Should I fiddle with my OC settings?

Suggestions welcome.

Maybe I'm just venting.
 
Originally posted by: nerp
NOthing has changed, my OC is fine, everything is as it has been. The only change I can see recently is BIOS 18.

IMHO, when trouble shooting, it's always best to remove all extra hardware and set it to stock speeds to help isolate the cause.

Or you could try to flash it back to a bios that worked well and go from there.

Did you clear CMOS after the flash then restore to defaults, then reset your settings?
 
Originally posted by: Gillbot
Originally posted by: nerp
NOthing has changed, my OC is fine, everything is as it has been. The only change I can see recently is BIOS 18.

IMHO, when trouble shooting, it's always best to remove all extra hardware and set it to stock speeds to help isolate the cause.

Or you could try to flash it back to a bios that worked well and go from there.

Did you clear CMOS after the flash then restore to defaults, then reset your settings?

Hmm, good point. I didn't clear CMOS after the flash. I flashed with the defaults set, rebooted, then set the OC setting. But there was no clearing action. Maybe I should do that now and re-set the settings. Hmm.
 
Originally posted by: nerp
the HD LED is flat-out solid. Just solidly lit.

Is this common with IP35-E? I've seen this a couple times with mine, when it shouldn't be doing much HDD activity, but HDD light is solid and my Raptor X isn't very responsive.
 
Hmm. thanks for the heads up. I'll have to do more homework. The box I built with this board has been sitting since March. I'll check it out, thanks. You guys don't have a trojan doing something in the background?. Just a thought.
 
I don't think I do. Heck, my IP35-E acts oddly outside of an OS sometimes. 😛 I often have locks on a cold POST, halting in the middle of the word "Memory."
 
HMm. I've never had any other problems until this stuff happened. It has been rock stable since the beginning. I'll try resetting the CMOS sometime today and see how it goes. Of course, since I posted this thread, I haven't had any issues. So I've really only experienced a quirk on a couple of occasions. I got this board back in March/April so it hasn't been bad or anything. I just want to keep on top of it in case the board craps out.
 
After several months of stable performance, my E8400 3.6GHz OC failed a few weeks back. I dropped it back down to stock 3.0GHz and I honestly can't see any big difference in performance. (I don't do much rendering or anything - just WoW and TF2 gaming)

But it does suck that it failed at all...

I hope my board isn't going! I'm trying to resist building a media center gaming PC to hook up to the TV that I'm also trying to resist buying 🙂
 
I would check if the HD was failing. I might also try a different SATA port or cable, if you are using SATA. This IP35-E that I'm using right now hasn't shown any of those things, and it has an E5200 in it with BIOS 18.
 
I just cleared the CMOS last night, ran at stock for a while then put my settings back in. I'll post here if I have any problems or if things just act normal from here on out. I'm thinking that the bios flash might have made things wonky; I remember the old epic IP35-E thread and it was standard advice to clear the CMOS after flashing to a new BIOS.
 
** update

HDs test fine, sector scans and all.

Clearing the CMOS might have fixed my issue. Everything has been running super peachy since I did that. Not a single hiccup. Mind you, I only had a couple of weird things happen in a week in two isolated incidents, so it could just be some strange gremlin.
 
@Nerp -- glad to hear you got it sorted. Definitely always clear the CMOS after a bios flash no matter what. I know it's painful -- especially for me, since I have 4 ram slots filled and I have to take 3 sticks out everytime so the system can boot @ 1.8vDIMM.

Just curious what PSU are you running in that rig?
 
Don't laugh. Antec EA380.

I'm thinking of swapping in an 80-plus 450w PSU or something. Maybe the EA430 or 500 next time a sale comes around.

I don't think the issues are due to lack of power or anything. Still stable since the flash and no oddities to report.
 
Originally posted by: nerp
Antec EA380.

I'm thinking of swapping in an 80-plus 450w PSU or something. Maybe the EA430 or 500 next time a sale comes around.

No need to unless you decide to upgrade video cards to something that requires more than one PCIe plug.
 
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