Rotors are scored but pads aren't worn down...causes? Do I need new rotors?

[Midwayman]

OEM is without a doubt the best quality. But aftermarket parts are very good also...ask a lot of questions if you go the parts jobber for brake pads.

LOL. Unless you are buying a really high end car most likely the aftermarket stuff will be just as good. On brake pads and rotors its easy to find far better parts than OEM. They're just not the ones for bottom dollar down at napa with the lifetime replacment warranty.

 

[silicon]

LOL. Unless you are buying a really high end car most likely the aftermarket stuff will be just as good. On brake pads and rotors its easy to find far better parts than OEM. They're just not the ones for bottom dollar down at napa with the lifetime replacment warranty.

thats why iys a good idea to ask the parts man if the pieces are any good or not. there is a lot of junk parts on the market.

 

[crashtech]

It's not easy to find a counter person who actually knows much beyond how to search for parts in their computer.

 

[996GT2]

Here's what I am thinking of getting:

Raysbestos Advanced Technology rotors: $72.60 for both rear rotors
Honda genuine OEM pads: $45.63
Honda genuine OEM left rear caliper (new, not reman.): $133.27

How do these look?

 

[crashtech]

Just my own preference, but I would rather put two semi-loaded reman calipers on there than one OEM, given the year of the car.

 

[996GT2]

Any other recommendations for good rotors?

I'm not really sure what's better between Raybestos, EBC, Centric, etc...

 

[crashtech]

Call me jaded, but I don't know how we can tell that they are not all from the same big factory in China, just thrown into different boxes. One thing I do know is that in general, the quality of offshore parts like rotors has vastly improved in the last decade. I'm OK with buying cheaper alternatives as long as they pass a visual inspection and the rotor surface is Blanchard ground, especially on rears that tend to be a lot less stressed than fronts.

 

[996GT2]

Call me jaded, but I don't know how we can tell that they are not all from the same big factory in China, just thrown into different boxes. One thing I do know is that in general, the quality of offshore parts like rotors has vastly improved in the last decade. I'm OK with buying cheaper alternatives as long as they pass a visual inspection and the rotor surface is Blanchard ground, especially on rears that tend to be a lot less stressed than fronts.

You're probably right. I ended up going with Centric Premium rotors since they were a little less expensive than Raybestos AT, and looked very similar/had similar specs as far as runout and other specs go.

 

[mirageracerx]

if oem was the best then moog would be out of business. they take a factory design and make it better. especially with their suspension components.

 

[someone16]

Have you tried rotating the hub without the caliper? Alot of times its the brake pad getting stuck to the caliper bracket instead of the actual caliper being faulty.

 

[cabri]

this weekend; it sounded on my Jeep that the front brake was metal on metal.
Still had half pad.

When I had the pad pulled, looking for a potential defect - a couple of small pebbles were found embedded into the surface of the pad. That was what created the noise.

I chose to replace the pads and resurface the rotor.

 

[996GT2]

Got everything replaced recently. New rotors and pads on all 4 corners, plus a new left rear caliper. Braking feels much better now (no more pulsing in the front), and the sticky piston issue is fixed. In my case, the original rotors had been on the car for 100K+ miles and had already been resurfaced several times, so they were too thin to refurface any more.