rotary engine failures

[imported_Truenofan]

i just thought this was a good example of when a rotary engine truly fails when running. the first page is just a regular engine while racing i think, not sure.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOF/hof.html

and these are parts after a engine failed at 8,000rpms. ooooo look at that damage.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOF/K2RD/k2rdhof01.html
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOF/K2RD/rotor04.jpg
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOF/K2RD/rotor03.jpg
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOF/K2RD/rotor02.jpg

and for comparison, this is what a rotor is supposed to look like.
http://www.3rotor.com/images/f...ild/fc_na_3rotor_4.jpg

i cringe at what happened inside that motor, but it looks so awesome. lets see who can dig up the worst engine blowout.

note, this is not what usually happens when someone blows a rotary engine, its usually just the apex seals that go shooting out the exhaust.

 

[T2urtle]

mhhh.... whats that a expected 60k mile apexi seal for the most part ? A couple of my friends swap seals like nothing ever 40k on their GTU's and turbo II.

 

[nismotigerwvu]

Yeah, the apex seal is the achilles heel of the wankel design. Main reason I went for a 300ZX TT instead.

 

[exdeath]

Hehe how did I know before I even clicked on this post that it was going to be Truenofan

Nasty stuff.

 

[Pliablemoose]

Cool pics, thanks...

 

[Toastedlightly]

I should have updated the other thread of mine. I was going to get an RX7 (I said I had it because I had decided on it). Turns out one of the rotors ate an apex seal. Screw that jazz. Luckily I hadn't payed yet :x

 

[T2urtle]

those now a days cost just as must to maintain by now. all turbo seals and all other engine seals need to be replaced along with all the rotted out suspension stuff. since its a TT the space you have in the engine bay, its a battle itself just to get to the parts let along any rusted or broken bolts your going to come across. But the output of a TT Z should be worth it.


couple guys i know with auto Z's running low 13's with minor bolt ons.

Originally posted by: nismotigerwvu
Yeah, the apex seal is the achilles heel of the wankel design. Main reason I went for a 300ZX TT instead.

 

[nismotigerwvu]

You know though,this car has been stout as hell. I don't want to brag and say I'm an awesome mechanic, but I'm pretty useful and my parent's have a really nice garage with everything I'd ever need and a copy of the FSM (factory service manual) can get you a long ways. I've personally replaced my timing belt (did the water pump while i was at it) and some other proactive maintenance and upgrades but *knocks on wood* the car has never crapped out on me. Granted I treat it like gold (not to say I don't enjoy it) and it only gets driven from May till September (have the nice option of a 215 HP builtup 240SX as my DD) I can't think of much this side of a true exotic I'd ever trade it for. The last time I had the Z on the dyno she made around 600 at the crank and before you ask yeah, built internals, some head work, new turbos, clutch, drive shaft and suspension and well everything you would expect to go along with a build at that level. I REAAAAAAAAAAAALLLLLLLLYYYYY hope I never have a post showing my prized possession as mangled as that 13b

 

[imported_Truenofan]

apex seals on a high end turbo rotary will last 60k. post some blown engine guys cmoonnnnn. i think that rotary was racing on a road course and it blew, not sure. still awesome to see the damage of those rotors, solid iron all mangled like that. uuuuuggglllyyy.

edit: nismo, its gonna happen eventually, everyone blows an engine, the more power you want, the more wear and tear you get. look at it this way, when it blows, you'll have a reason to upgrade. =D

edit 2: heh heh exdeath, thank you for recognizing it was me already. i guess I'm the known rotary guy around here lol. cmooonnn guys, blown engines, there are some out there somewhere. one of your fav's, videos, pictures, its all good. lol.

 

[jagec]

I tried to find a picture of a blown 4AGE, but I couldn't.

Well, except this one

 

[imported_Truenofan]

blown 350z, yep, thats not good
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...Q&mode=related&search=

blown 20B......man he kept revving and revving that sob.
http://video.google.com/videop...&type=search&plindex=0

 

[IGBT]

..8K?? is some one in a hurry??

 

[imported_Truenofan]

lol, it was during a race, redline for the series 5(89-91) is 8,000 rpms.

edit: also note, that rotary engines, under normal daily use, should be redlined at least once a few days. since they burn 1quart of oil every 1k miles roughly, they have more carbon buildup than a regular engine and redlining breaks it lose.

 

[shabby]

Originally posted by: Truenofan
blown 350z, yep, thats not good
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...Q&mode=related&search=

That looked like a stock rod, they were probably running a 100-150 shot so im not surprised it blew.

 

[imported_Truenofan]

well, people are always braggin how much the "stock internals can handle" on certain cars. and a 100-150 shot isnt a whole lot when you think of it.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: nismotigerwvu
Yeah, the apex seal is the achilles heel of the wankel design. Main reason I went for a 300ZX TT instead.

Did you know Nissan was slated for the Wankel originally? Thank god they didn't go with it.

My brother had a 1st gen RX7 GXL-SE and I had a 86 GXL (the turbo looking one without the turbo)...I lost a seal in the rain once (took in water in the intake in a flood area), my brother's let go a few thousand miles after a rebuild for no known reason.

 

[imported_Truenofan]

the only reaseon a rotary blows an apex seal, is because its running lean. rotaries can't ping, at all. for the most part, they don't knock, anything above 3,000rpms and the knock sensor is pretty much dis-engaged.
look, i don't want to turn this thread into a "piston vs rotary" thread, each has pluses and each has downfalls. i want to see blown engines, piston or rotary. it happens all the time to everyone for different reasons.

oh and alky, the GXL is not the turbo looking one without the turbo, the GXL is the more luxury model with the automatic adjusting suspension.(i own one) your thinking the GTU.

 

[alkemyst]

ahh, it was 10+ years ago. I knew it was G something.

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: Truenofan
well, people are always braggin how much the "stock internals can handle" on certain cars. and a 100-150 shot isnt a whole lot when you think of it.

I like my factory Manley H beams and 6 bolt mains thank you very much

Only weakness in the stock bottom end on my car is the tight piston to wall clearance with forged aluminum pistons and iron block. If I recall its .001" instead of .005" like it should be. Stupid comprimise to make the average Joe happy and not hear piston slap... so no prolonged boost or top speed pulls on the stock block But it's great for pulling to 100 before the top of third :evil:

People have blown those engines (mostly bad tunes or bad gas) and sold the still perfect stock rods for $600+, I don't think anyone has ever bent one of those rods.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: exdeath

Originally posted by: Truenofan
well, people are always braggin how much the "stock internals can handle" on certain cars. and a 100-150 shot isnt a whole lot when you think of it.

I like my factory Manley H beams and 6 bolt mains thank you very much

Only weakness in the stock bottom end on my car is the tight piston to wall clearance with forged aluminum pistons and iron block. If I recall its .001" instead of .005" like it should be. Stupid comprimise to make the average Joe happy and not hear piston slap... so no prolonged boost or top speed pulls on the stock block But it's great for pulling to 100 before the top of third :evil:

People have blown those engines (mostly bad tunes or bad gas) and sold the still perfect stock rods for $600+, I don't think anyone has ever bent one of those rods.

If you aren't going to track the car you have nothing to worry about.

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: exdeath

Originally posted by: Truenofan
well, people are always braggin how much the "stock internals can handle" on certain cars. and a 100-150 shot isnt a whole lot when you think of it.

I like my factory Manley H beams and 6 bolt mains thank you very much

Only weakness in the stock bottom end on my car is the tight piston to wall clearance with forged aluminum pistons and iron block. If I recall its .001" instead of .005" like it should be. Stupid comprimise to make the average Joe happy and not hear piston slap... so no prolonged boost or top speed pulls on the stock block But it's great for pulling to 100 before the top of third :evil:

People have blown those engines (mostly bad tunes or bad gas) and sold the still perfect stock rods for $600+, I don't think anyone has ever bent one of those rods.

If you aren't going to track the car you have nothing to worry about.

Yeah, great for drag racing that only lasts a few seconds, but definitely want to keep an eye on cooling upgrades if you are going to be auto crossing for hours on the stock block. Or just get the block rebuild with looser pistons.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: exdeath

Originally posted by: alkemyst

If you aren't going to track the car you have nothing to worry about.

Yeah, great for drag racing that only lasts a few seconds, but definitely want to keep an eye on cooling upgrades if you are going to be auto crossing for hours on the stock block. Or just get the block rebuild with looser pistons.

Seriously though if you are going to drop a few hundred dollars on carbon fiber valve covers, I'd spend that money first on getting proper pistons. You will get some slap with forged, but that is normal on warmup. Ford was pretty stupid to do that thinking it help sell them. The car practically sold itself and those buying it probably would have expect/accepted some slap.

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: exdeath

Originally posted by: alkemyst

If you aren't going to track the car you have nothing to worry about.

Yeah, great for drag racing that only lasts a few seconds, but definitely want to keep an eye on cooling upgrades if you are going to be auto crossing for hours on the stock block. Or just get the block rebuild with looser pistons.

Seriously though if you are going to drop a few hundred dollars on carbon fiber valve covers, I'd spend that money first on getting proper pistons. You will get some slap with forged, but that is normal on warmup. Ford was pretty stupid to do that thinking it help sell them. The car practically sold itself and those buying it probably would have expect/accepted some slap.

Yeah, dumb move by trying to balance the car for both the casual Joe and the hardcore enthusiast. They should have went enthusiast all the way. All kinds of noises on that car like loud injector tick, creaking steering rack from out of plane stamped K members, etc... not to mention the car is noisy on the road from the tight suspension, and they were concerned with piston slap first thing in the morning?? :roll:

Oh the carbon fiber valve covers would just be a finishing touch on a completely built up engine from scratch, as in, "hey I'm putting together a new long block, I need a oil pan and valve covers, lets see whats out there".

And even then I don't know if I was being serious, thats a lot of money for just valve covers. I was just browser shopping and tallying up some costs and weight savings and theoretical build combinations I may or may not pursue.

On an somewhat related know, just noticed these for anyone who was curious and never saw them, these are the 'infamous' Manley H beam forged rods that come in the 2003 Cobra engine from the factory:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

[imported_Truenofan]

nice? how much do one of those weigh? looks like it could stand up to quite a bit of power, pretty beefy.