Ok my car is a 2.0 4cyl TURBO and i live in Southern California. It never reaches below 30 where i live in the winter time. I'm using 15w-50 wieght by mobil one synthethic for turbo and supercharged cars. Should i keep using 15w-50 or 10w-30? My habits are changing the oil and oil filter every 3,000 miles and air filter every 6,000. I also tend to drive hard at times too.
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Roger ASE or anyone else with extensive engine knowledge.
- Thread starter gregshin
- Start date
2002R1Rider
Member
15w30 due to the temp..
PlatinumGold
Lifer
What??
No no.... straight 30 weight is only recommended down to 50 or 55F. Below that it is considerably thicker than "normal".
IMO, you can never have too much startup fluidity.
0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 and 15W-30 are all 30 weight oils, the only difference is their cold temperature viscosity.
The oil you're using should be perefectly fine, since it is synthetic. It should be fluid down to around -50F.
Well, it looks like they don't make a straight 30wt oil anyways.
Mobil One Oils
So I would like to change my recommendation to 0W30 or 5W30 oil.
Pepsi90919
Lifer
why are you using synthetic and changing it every 3000 miles ?!?!
15W50 is fine for what you are doing. I also put that is ricers cars, ESP when turboed. I used 15W50 in my motorcycle, and it worked great.
Stay with the mobil1 15W50 , just don't use Fram filters
Also you don't need to change the Air Filter every 6K. Hole it up to the sun, if light comes through 60% or more of the pleats then it is fine.
Stay with the mobil1 15W50 , just don't use Fram filters
Also you don't need to change the Air Filter every 6K. Hole it up to the sun, if light comes through 60% or more of the pleats then it is fine.
JulesMaximus
No Lifer
You could probably go to at least 5k between oil changes unless you are racing the car.
Air filter every 6k miles=waste of money. Buy a K&N and clean and oit it every 15,000 miles (hang on to one paper filter though to throw in there while the K&N is drying after a cleaning).
GalvanizedYankee
Diamond Member
I would just use what the owner manual recommends for engine oil.
Just a consideration: Changing your air filter every 6000 is expensive and opens the system up for bits of dirt when in a hurry.
Consider using a preoiled K&N stock replacement filter. Unless you off road, it is good for
50000. Even then it only needs cleaning and reoiling as per their instructions.
Both my Dakota and her Camero got a tiny bump in mpg......:sun:
EDIT: Something should be said about turbos. The major problem in a turbo living a long life is heat soak. If the engine is shut off, after a hot run up The Crest to Nemcomb's Ranch,
for example. The super heated turbo will cook the oil til it cokes, this is known as"coking".
It looks like tiny bits of charcoal. Its best to idle the engine a minuet or two before shut down. As an alternative, go easy on the throttle a mile or two before reaching a known destination. Water cooled turbos are known to coke too.
Just a consideration: Changing your air filter every 6000 is expensive and opens the system up for bits of dirt when in a hurry.
Consider using a preoiled K&N stock replacement filter. Unless you off road, it is good for
50000. Even then it only needs cleaning and reoiling as per their instructions.
Both my Dakota and her Camero got a tiny bump in mpg......:sun:
EDIT: Something should be said about turbos. The major problem in a turbo living a long life is heat soak. If the engine is shut off, after a hot run up The Crest to Nemcomb's Ranch,
for example. The super heated turbo will cook the oil til it cokes, this is known as"coking".
It looks like tiny bits of charcoal. Its best to idle the engine a minuet or two before shut down. As an alternative, go easy on the throttle a mile or two before reaching a known destination. Water cooled turbos are known to coke too.
GalvanizedYankee
Diamond Member
My post was not meant to irritate or annoy.
I personally would opt for filtration over flow, for engine life. Intake valve guides then piston rings suffer. It's yours and it's your choice.
What I had to say on turbos stands, I've overhauled many.
Old mechanic's saying.......Pay me now or pay me later. {later costs more}
Peace to you.....:sun:
EDIT: The dirt that makes it past your piston rings is now in your crankcase oil.
I personally would opt for filtration over flow, for engine life. Intake valve guides then piston rings suffer. It's yours and it's your choice.
What I had to say on turbos stands, I've overhauled many.
Old mechanic's saying.......Pay me now or pay me later. {later costs more}
Peace to you.....:sun:
EDIT: The dirt that makes it past your piston rings is now in your crankcase oil.
Scootin159
Diamond Member
I'd say 15w50 Mobil 1 if it were me. Turbos get real hot when you work them, and that's where the 50w will help the most. 30* is reasonably cold, but 15w50 should be plenty good for that cool. Depending on how much you drive (enough for more than one oil change per year), then you could go with 15w50 for the summer and 10w30 for the winter (maybe even 10w40). Still though, I 2nd (or 3rd?) the idea of going by the book that came with the car.
WinkOsmosis
Banned
He isn't following the manual because it's an engine swap.
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