Replacing whole suspension, costs?

[JulesMaximus]

...put an extension on it?

breaker bar should work fine in that situation. problems only arise when you're under the car in the driveway and have no clearance to use it.

That was the problem. I was working inside the wheel well and couldn't get enough leverage. I forget why an extension wouldn't work. It was perplexing and I don't remember the details but I do remember that I could not get a breaker bar in there and get enough leverage on it to free that bolt. There was some other part in the way that made it difficult.

 

[JeffreyLebowski]

Front Strut Assembly
Quantity: 2
Unit price: 280.00
Total: 560.00
FROM ROCK AUTO - $102.89 ea

Rear Shock Assembly
Quantity: 2
Unit Price: 63.39
Total: 126.78
FROM ROCK AUTO - $24.79 ea

Rear Springs
Quantity: 1
Unit price: 131.42
Total 131.42
FROM ROCK AUTO - $56.79 (for both)
Labor (85 hour)
Front Struts
2 hours
Total: 170.00

Rear Shocks
1.7 hours
Total 144.50

Rear Springs
1 hour
Total 85.00

Alignment
79.95

GRAND TOTAL 1388.49
this was the first estimate I got, the second one is a 1000.

Se my updated prices. As far as labor goes. Buy a Haynes and A chilton repair manual, some tools and make a day of it and do it yourself. It's not hard. If you work on computers and stuff around the house you can work on a car with a manual walking you through it. Saying I'm scared I'll mess something up is like dealing with your grandparents not wanting to stop using AOL because their scared to use "the internet".

Once you start doing it you'll see how easy it really is.
Just the parts alone from Rock Auto will cost you ~$315. $100 on tools, another $100 on a jack and stands, $50 for the manuals and you're at what they were going to charge you just for the front struts.
Do you like saving $$500-$900?

I'm just waiting for a nice weekend so I can change all the springs/shocks on my TA.

 

[CraigRT]

A front strut for $280? Jesus..
They should be under $100 easily.

I did front struts AND mounts on my car in January for less than $300 including tax (parts) Cdn funds.

Updated RockAuto prices are much better

 

[jlee]

A front strut for $280? Jesus..
They should be under $100 easily.

I did front struts AND mounts on my car in January for less than $300 including tax (parts) Cdn funds.

I paid a little over $627 for four Koni Yellows...$280 for a regular strut is highway robbery.

 

[CraigRT]

I paid a little over $627 for four Koni Yellows...$280 for a regular strut is highway robbery.

For sure.. I know some struts are different, adjustable, etc, but unless its a coil-over. $280 is FTL!

 

[Hellotalkie]

I'm having the shop email me an estimate
I'll post what they are going to use. But if the price markup is too high I'll go to rockauto and purchase the parts and have a mechanic put them on. Once you guys see the estimate, it would be great help if you could help me pick out parts.

 

[CraigRT]

I'm having the shop email me an estimate
I'll post what they are going to use. But if the price markup is too high I'll go to rockauto and purchase the parts and have a mechanic put them on. Once you guys see the estimate, it would be great help if you could help me pick out parts.

No problem. please do post it up.

 

[Vette73]

I'm having the shop email me an estimate
I'll post what they are going to use. But if the price markup is too high I'll go to rockauto and purchase the parts and have a mechanic put them on. Once you guys see the estimate, it would be great help if you could help me pick out parts.

Just look at the list I gave on the first page. The springs the maker will not really matter as they should all be within the same spec.
For Struts the Monroe Sen-Trac struts/shocks are good.

The Struts are the only part where the maker will change and the Sen-Trac ones are the better ones over the lower version from them.

 

[CraigRT]

It depends on the car but in the case of my Saturn, KYB is the preferred brand over Monroe for struts.

Both should be similar in price either way.

 

[fbrdphreak]

Have to agree with Marlin's suggestion. A car that old could probably use tie rod ends and you are doing an alignment already. Also they are not replacing the strut mounts? Those are cheap and good to replace while you're at it.

If you're going to own a car and expect it to be a cheap experience, then you need to do your own wrenching. You can certainly have a shop do all your work, but it will NEVER be cheap.

My $0.02: time to man up, buy some tools, buy some manuals, buy some parts and dive in. If you've got the time, it's a great experience.

Maybe an AT-G member near you can come lend a hand.

 

[kornphlake]

It's not really fair to compare online parts prices to the prices your shop shows. Sure they're going to charge mark up on the parts, but they're also going to buy parts they can get the same day, which usually means napa, carquest or a dealership. Local prices will be 30% higher than online prices, the mechanic would be loosing money to quote parts that cheap.

 

[Hellotalkie]

Ok guys, you've convinced me to take a step forward without dealing with a mechanic.
I bought this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_48411wt_930

Now I hope its as easy as you guys say it is. Since I know nothing about cars, is that list that someone posted an accurate list of what I need? The only thing that worries me is the spring compressor.

 

[fbrdphreak]

That's a good manual to have. I like the Haynes manuals too, they are more explicit for newbies and spell things out better IMO.

What worries you about the spring compressor? It is essentially a set of hooks connected by a threaded rod. Put the hooks on either end of the spring and use a ratchet to bring the sets of hooks together, thus compressing the spring.

You need a comprehensive set of sockets, preferably in 3/8 and 1/2 inch. 1/4 inch is good to have for other projects, but not as much needed on suspension. Sockets should be 6-point, especially for suspension work where you're cranking down a lot.

You will definitely want a couple breaker bars, one shorter and one longer. If you need an extra set of sockets to fill in the gaps or for some deeper sockets, consider getting a no-name brand of hardened impact sockets. These should be plenty strong even if they are Chinese crap.

Check the torque values for the major bolts you'll be installing. If they're all in the same range and fairly high, you may not have much of a need for a torque wrench if you're tight on budget. I prefer to use one, but as long as you don't severely under tighten or severely over tighten something, it will be fine. If you've got the cash, get one though. Again I got a Craftsman on clearance, but I'd just say avoid the Harbor Freight ones.

A jack and jack stands, both with enough height for you to get under the car and work comfortably.

Discount places to shop include Northern Tool and Harbor Freight. I personally use Craftsman sockets & ratchets because I've had good luck with them and found some big sets on clearance or sale. My other tools are definitely a big mix. I wouldn't recommend Harbor Freight stuff for important pieces like ratchets or the spring compressors - all their stuff is cheap Chinese crap.

And pick up a can of penetrating oil to help loosen rusted bolts. I'm blanking on the brand name - I can see the bottle in my head: white can with lots of writing all over it, yellow cap. Someone fill in the blank for me

When you take the strut off the car, look how at how it is assembled and use it as a guide to assemble your new parts. Pay close attention to how the spring seats on the strut mount.

 

[Vette73]

That's a good manual to have. I like the Haynes manuals too, they are more explicit for newbies and spell things out better IMO.

Just about to say this.

Get a Haynes from Advance/AZ as the manual you got on eBay is written for auto-tech/wrenchers so some of it will not be as clear as a Haynes. Once you see it in the Haynes then look at the shop manual.

 

[JeffreyLebowski]

That's a good manual to have. I like the Haynes manuals too, they are more explicit for newbies and spell things out better IMO.

What worries you about the spring compressor? It is essentially a set of hooks connected by a threaded rod. Put the hooks on either end of the spring and use a ratchet to bring the sets of hooks together, thus compressing the spring.

You need a comprehensive set of sockets, preferably in 3/8 and 1/2 inch. 1/4 inch is good to have for other projects, but not as much needed on suspension. Sockets should be 6-point, especially for suspension work where you're cranking down a lot.

You will definitely want a couple breaker bars, one shorter and one longer. If you need an extra set of sockets to fill in the gaps or for some deeper sockets, consider getting a no-name brand of hardened impact sockets. These should be plenty strong even if they are Chinese crap.

Check the torque values for the major bolts you'll be installing. If they're all in the same range and fairly high, you may not have much of a need for a torque wrench if you're tight on budget. I prefer to use one, but as long as you don't severely under tighten or severely over tighten something, it will be fine. If you've got the cash, get one though. Again I got a Craftsman on clearance, but I'd just say avoid the Harbor Freight ones.

A jack and jack stands, both with enough height for you to get under the car and work comfortably.

Discount places to shop include Northern Tool and Harbor Freight. I personally use Craftsman sockets & ratchets because I've had good luck with them and found some big sets on clearance or sale. My other tools are definitely a big mix. I wouldn't recommend Harbor Freight stuff for important pieces like ratchets or the spring compressors - all their stuff is cheap Chinese crap.

And pick up a can of penetrating oil to help loosen rusted bolts. I'm blanking on the brand name - I can see the bottle in my head: white can with lots of writing all over it, yellow cap. Someone fill in the blank for me

When you take the strut off the car, look how at how it is assembled and use it as a guide to assemble your new parts. Pay close attention to how the spring seats on the strut mount.

PB Blaster?

 

[Meghan54]

Also consider places like Advance Auto and Auto Zone for "weird" tools you'd use only once. Both places have a decent selection of tools like spring compressors that they loan out.

They do charge you full retail selling price for the tool when they "loan" it out to you, but refund the entire price right back when you return the tool.

I've used some spring compressors from AZ before....kept them a day, returned no problem.

 

[CraigRT]

Has anyone here actually used a Haynes? Utter garbage.

I am not sure what they actually put in between the cover and the back of the book, but its nothing useful.

It's either so vague, not for your year of car, or its not there at all.

I would go with the FSM and just ask questions here or on the Focus forums.

 

[Meghan54]

Oh, and about repair manuals. I'd first buy both the Chilton and Haynes, as was mentioned before. But after you get a bit comfortable with working on your vehicle yourself, consider searching out a Ford factory service manual.

It'll more likely be a set of manuals instead of one, covering different areas of the car. I've got two sets for my Chrysler LeBaron. There are three books....one for the engine, trans, etc. repair. One is for the entire electrical system. One is for body work.

I started using them instead of a Chiltons or Haynes because the wealth of information contained in the factory manuals is light years beyond what's in the two "aftermarket" manuals.

The drawings are much more explicit and clearer, photos are superb, and instructions are so much more detailed. After all, these manuals were made by the people who made the car, so who better to write a manual about how to remove and (re)install new parts on it?

Here's a pic of one volume of the 2004 manual:

You can find them all over the place. Ebay is a good start and so would forums that cater to Focus or Ford.

 

[kornphlake]

I'd recommend just taking the strut and springs to a shop and give them $10 to compress the spring and install it on the strut. You can do it yourself, but the consequences of screwing up can be beyond what money can replace. If you had a bit more experience as a mechanic I'd say go for it, but for a newb, I wouldn't take the chance, the springs can seriously injure you if the compressor isn't used properly.

 

[fbrdphreak]

Has anyone here actually used a Haynes? Utter garbage.

I am not sure what they actually put in between the cover and the back of the book, but its nothing useful.

It's either so vague, not for your year of car, or its not there at all.

I would go with the FSM and just ask questions here or on the Focus forums.

Maybe for your make/model cars, but they've been quite helpful on the 3-4 cars I've had them for. Factory service manuals are pretty vague for someone who isn't used to disassembling things and replacing parts. I agree they have their value, but a Haynes is a good starting point for most people.

 

[fbrdphreak]

PB Blaster?

That's it!! Thanks. PB Blaster - great stuff to have around when working on cars.

 

[exdeath]

If by "whole suspension" you mean springs and struts, that's high. You can probably use the same struts you have now and just go back to OEM springs, which you should be able to find on a forum somewhere for 200 bucks (or less). It's not a hard job and if everything's not rusted to hell, you should be able to do it in an afternoon. Or bring it here and we'll do it. I imagine NH is a little far, though.

Springs and struts need to go together if they are different enough. Otherwise you end up with severe under damping or over damping and the car rides like crap.

I bet all it had done to it was too much of a drop with lowering springs and nothing else. Proper way is taller ball joints, drop spindles, etc, to maintain suspension geometry, otherwise it's like the wheels are permanently in jounce and going to have severe inner tire wear.

 

[exdeath]

Car is lowered and yes they suggested a camber kit but found out I guess nothing is adjustable and a camber kit would be useless. Plus the tire rubs on the side wall if I hit too hard or turn

Camber kit is what MAKES it adjustable. It's just an offset bolt where the strut bolts to the knuckle and pushes the top of the wheel out a little bit. Those bolts can only compensation for a small amount, basically bolt hole in the knuckle can't extend past the edge of the strut ear that clamps around it. The idea is to push the top of the tire in the direction opposite of the side that it's wearing.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/camber%20kit/ehardware77/CamberMeasurement.jpg
http://us1.webpublications.com.au/static/images/articles/i23/2358_24lo.jpg

The other option if that's not enough is adjustable camber/caster plate top strut mounts, but it shouldn't be THAT bad.

How much is it lowered from stock? Have you had anybody get you alignment numbers and compare to stock?

Also make sure the sway bar links are the correct length. The ends of the sway bar should be 90 degrees to the links connecting them to the lower control arm, otherwise it preloads the bushings and limits the movement of the swaybar (eg: lowering without shortening links pushes the sway bar ends up and can potentially interfere with other things under the car).

And those prices are pretty bad. A set of 4 Bilsteins won't even cost $600-700. Also Amazon.com of all places has the best pricing I've found on Monroe Quick-Struts ($160 a piece for my Toyota, includes all new mounts, bearings, upper and lower spring isolators, bellows, bump stop, spring and strut). Looks like they are only $100 at both Rockauto and Amazon for an 03 Focus. And they are pretty much a bolt in affair, 3 on the top 2 on the bottom, no spring compressor needed. Rears are shocks and may be a little more involved, as those won't come in a preassembled unit and will require care with handling springs separately from the shock.

Do you know if the struts/shocks are stock and if just lowering springs were used? If so it would be much cheaper to just get a set of stock springs, probably less than $100 for all 4, but it will be more labor on the fronts (spring compressor and disassembling the top strut mount).

 

[brblx]

encouraging someone who admits they know nothing about cars to do a decent amount of suspension work?

this should be entertaining.

 

[fbrdphreak]

encouraging someone who admits they know nothing about cars to do a decent amount of suspension work?

this should be entertaining.

How else is someone supposed to learn?