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Replaced My Exhaust or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love RockAuto

snoopy7548

Diamond Member
Living in the Northeast, you get used to having your exhaust either patched or replaced. I've had to have mine patched a couple of times and I had my mechanic replace everything after the catalytic converter a couple of years ago.

Well, a few weeks ago the connection at the resonator->muffler flange broke. It made the car sound pretty cool but, although I wanted it fixed, I wasn't going to pay my mechanic to replace it again. I haven't done anything more than changing tires or bulbs on a car, so I was a bit hesitant but I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty. A co-worker suggested I buy the exhaust replacement kit from RockAuto, so I did...

Here's where the exhaust (resonantor pipe assembly) rusted through and broke, at the weld point of the flange that connects to the muffler:

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I ordered the exhaust replacement kit from RockAuto but had some concerns over what was included. For some reason, they include a gasket and the spring-bolt screw kit for the manifold->catalytic converter flange connection, which you don't need. They do not include any bolts or hardware for the resonator->muffler flange, which you do need.

I was in Lowe's and picked up some Grade-8 zinc bolts and hardware for the resonator->muffler flange (SAE 1.25" x 14, if I'm not mistaken). My catalytic converter had square nuts welded onto the flange, so I didn't need any nuts for that even though I picked up four (metric 10mm x 1.25 fine thread) at the local hardware store just in case.

While preparing for this, I realized I really needed a pair of ramps. I didn't like the cheap Rhino $30 pair of plastic ramps, and I wasn't about to shell out >$100 for a pair of RaceRamps, so I decided I wanted to make my own. I used this as inspiration:


But rather than make them one piece, I made each two pieces that connect with a pull-together latch. This allows me remove all but what's needed once my car is on them, giving me more room and the ability to place jack stands for extra safety.

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Don't worry... I put some wooden chocks (scrap from making the ramps) at the front and rear tires. BTW, I was glad I made the stop at the end. When I drove up onto the last "step", I gave a bit too much gas and if not for the stop, I would have driven off the end. The stop did its job perfectly with no cracking or damage to the ramp. I'll probably still add some reinforcement.

The ramps gave me an extra 6" of height, though I wish I had made them 2-3" taller. It's not a big deal as I can just add attach a longer "base" board to the bottom whenever I want to increase the height. If I find myself wanting to do more car work, I'll make another set (without the stops) so I can get the whole car off the ground.

Taking out the old exhaust was easy. The hardest part was getting the old rubber mounts off; I had to cut two of them off. All of the bolts were rusted but some silicone spray and a breaker bar on my socket wrench made getting them off easy.

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I started by bolting the new resonator to the catalytic converter. This is where the extra height (or putting the car on four ramps) would have been helpful.

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Putting the new exhaust in was easier since I had the full ~15" of height to work with, though making sure the resonator flange and muffler flange lined up well (enough) was a bit frustrating. I used a jack stand to keep the muffler in place as I oriented it and bolted the flanges together.

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Three hours (not counting the time spent stripping the damn stickers/shipping labels off the exhaust pipes with lacquer thinner), a few head bumps, a handful of curses, and pieces of rust in the face later, I held my breath, turned the key, and... no loud exhaust anymore! I blocked the muffler with my hand and the sound didn't change, so I guess I did a good job of bolting everything together.

Not only did I save $250, but I learned a lot and now feel more comfortable working on my car.
 
Looks like you did a good job. Drive with your windows down for a few weeks. Would hate to lose a forum member to C02.
 
rock auto is great. i recently did a unit bearing on my truck, dealer wanted over 700 for the job, i did it for 150 in parts and an hour in my driveway.
 
Nicely done, and kudos for taking on the new challenge with success. Re the bolts, many cars use springs and bolts at the manifold joint so that, even with small movements and minor misalignment there is a good seal there. Very often the flanges and gasket are rounded (not just flat surfaces) to help this. But those rear joint bolts are not very hard to find from any hardware store, so often they are not included with new parts. Here's a hint for the rubber mounting pieces I got by watching my favourite mechanic. He used a large Pump Plier tool (it has adjustable jaw spacing so you can work on a wide gap) and positioned its jaws one behind the rubber near the hole, and one on the tip of the metal mounting shaft on the exhaust pipe. Squeezing the handles forced the shaft end back into the hole, and then a further bend of the entire pliers (as if turning a bolt) forced the shaft end through the hole to complete its removal.
 
Thanks. It's still holding up well, but I'm trading in the car for something newer.

I wasn't sure what to do with the old muffler and exhaust, but the place I work has a guy that comes once a week or so and picks up any metal or electronics trash, so I was able to just dump it near the loading bay.
 
RockAuto -- yes -- I always thought their TV commercials were a bit hinky until I started ordering parts from them.

Most recently, I noticed the cap on the window-washer reservoir of my brother's truck was cracked -- broken. I first started thinking to replace the entire reservoir -- a fairly cheap item. Then, discovered I could purchase the cap separately, and found it at JC Whitney for approximately $11 with $10 shipping -- no tax. I was about to pull the string and place the order, but held back and opened the RockAuto page. $5 plus $3 shipping.

Now, I like those commercials . . . .
 
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