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Repairing the Cooler Master RC-690 top ports grounding issue

Zepper

Elite Member
I have copied this post out of its original thread for ease of finding and to add my pic of the finished repair.

Here are pix and explanation for properly grounding front ports on CM 690 for those with low techie skillz... Sorry I was delayed a day for a run to the doctor's office and shopping. Make sure you remember or mark the orientation of the PCB and SATA connector so you can put them back correctly. The top bezel is held on by 8 plastic clips: 3 on each side and two at the back - should be obvious how to remove it.

Here are the front ports and SATA connector as they came from CM:
http://i52.photobucket.com/alb...FrontPanelSATAconn.jpg

The FW shield wire sort of snakes across the top of the white connector on the left and is attached with the holding screw to the top of a plastic post. I'm checking the edge of the board there to see what the chance is of that accidentally contacting the ground plane of the PCB - there is none. Behind the ports' PCB is the eSATA cable - the metal shield of that is not connected to ground at that end either. I also checked the bezel plastic and that of the molding on the eSATA and neither are conductive.

Here is the face of the front ports PCB:
http://i52.photobucket.com/alb...per0/FrontPanelPCB.jpg

Note that there are four screw mountings at the corners of the PCB that are not used. Cut a piece of at least 20 gauge (larger is better, say 18 gauge if you have it) wire to make a ground wire. Make it long enough to reach to the hole in the case metal I'll show you in the last pic plus enough for a 1/4" stripping on each end. Strip and tin (soldering instructions are all around the web - use your fave search engine) each end of the wire about 1/4". Tack solder one end of the wire to the square tinned collar (available on both sides of the PCB so make sure where you solder the wire won't interfere with putting the PCB back into the mounting grooves) around the nearest hole to the hole in the case metal. Wrap and solder the other end of the wire to the neck of the eyelet terminal on the end of the FW shield wire.

Here is the SATA connector:
http://i52.photobucket.com/alb...4/zepper0/SATAconn.jpg

Cut another length of wire to reach from the nearest narrow side of the SATA connector to the case metal mounting hole as mentioned above. Allow a little extra for stripping and tinning. Strip and tin 1/4" on each end and tack solder one end to the narrow side of the SATA metal shield that will be nearest the case metal hole and wrap and solder the other end to the neck of the eyelet terminal as above.

And here is the hole in case metal where the ports cables run thru:
http://i52.photobucket.com/alb...per0/TopPanelPorts.jpg

Note the drilled hole just above (toward the front of the case) the big cable pass thru hole - that's where the grounds will be connected. There is a plastic post that lines up with the hole which can accept a screw so I'd use that with a self-threading screw for plastic and since the case metal is coated on both sides, you will need to use either an inside star or outside star lock washer (whichever will make best contact with case metal) to cut in to the metal and make good contact under the eyelet terminal for your wires. So after you've mounted the top bezel back onto the case, attach the eyelet terminal at that point so that it makes good contact with case metal. If you use a sheet metal screw that actually taps into the metal, you can skip the star washer, but you may have to cut some of that support post away if you do use the sheet metal screw because it will be too big to use the hole in the plastic support.

Any good hardware store or place like Home Depot or Lowes should have the screw/washers/etc. you might need as well as wire by the foot if you don't have a dead PSU around to cannibalize...

And that's it - satisfaction in knowing your front panel cables are properly grounded.

I finally got around to doing the fix on mine and here's a pic:
http://i52.photobucket.com/alb.../repairedGrounding.jpg The screw that fit the plastic standoff in the top bezel turned out to be a #6 sheet metal screw, better to get ones with Philip's head if you are buying new. You'll see the three wires from the SATA shield, the PCB ground plane and the FW cable loosely attached to the screw for picture purposes. When mounted on the case, there will be either an inside or outside star washer under the stack of eyelet terminals to insure a solid contact with chassis metal.

Now that you have the basics of the idea, you can check your other case(s) for similarly poor electrical work.

As I noted above, the ports will probably work without this extra effort and expense, but they may work better if you do, and you'll never know if you don't.

I hope some may find it useful.

.bh.

PS: There are three more plastic standoffs in the top bezel, so if you want to secure the top bezel for some reason, all you need are three more #6 sheet metal screws of 1/2" or less. 1/4" would be plenty of length for just securing the bezel. A bit longer is needed for the eyelet terminals and star washer 3/8" would probably work fine for all. .bh.
 
Hi Ya Zep!

Just wanted to pick your brain....just a little.

I built a system for a buddy using my old parts ( Asus AN8-SLI, Nice RAM and DVD/CD player ) and, a nice new CM RC-690.

Seems the computer doesn't want to turn on. I have the green light on the MB power, but no start/fans, anything to make it come alive.

I took the PS home ( SinTek 500 Watt SLI ), and it powers "on" with the Green/Black wire trick.

I can't "see" where a grounding problem with the case could affect his machine. It has been running fine for @ 90 days. I realize my warranty period has expired, but my conscience doesn't.

Got any insites.....besides telling my conscience to go screw itself?
 
What is his environment like? Damp or too dry like most of us... If you've had the front bezel off, make sure you didn't jam the switches - you have to make sure the buttons stay flush with the bezel when putting it back on - they should have put some sort of springs on those buttons to keep them in place. Next is to re-seat memory, video card and/or perhaps CPU. Try to power up after each item has been reseated. Make sure all cables are connected properly and that no SATA connectors have been fragged. I managed to short out the PSU on a build I just did - found the weld mark on the mobo pan. 😱 The power and reset switch connectors don't go cross row, they stay in the same row (sorry, that's my mobo, but worth a check). All else fails, clear the CMOS if you made any significant change in CPU or memory for this build from what was on it before. And as always, check everything for a case of the DAs. 😉

.bh.
 
Thanks Zep!

His environment couldn't be better. Whole house humidifier FTW.

I played with all the usual, easy suspects, but to no avail. I was pretty well convinced it was the PS, but couldn't remember exactly which two wires to short 'till I got home and checked.

I can see now, this is turning into a full assult, board out, piece by piece, TSing mode. Bummer! :frown:


And as always, check everything for a case of the DAs.
I'm showing my age here, when the only DA I'm familiar with is this one. :laugh:
 
Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
Originally posted by: Old Hippie
Originally posted by: Zepper
It's Dumb Ass Mistakes...

.bh.


Oh, I'm well versed in that area!

best way to learn is to FUBAR it at least once and have to pay for it again!

My wallet and I are both well versed in these areas.

Did I mention I'm like Mick Jagger? I saw an interview with him where he described himself as a "Slow Study".
I must be a relative! :laugh:
 
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