Removing rusted screws: please help!

eLiu

Diamond Member
Jun 4, 2001
6,407
1
0
Hey all,
Well we're trying to sell an old (1982) pickup truck. However, the license plate mounting screws have definitely rusted into place. It's two screws/nuts holding the license plate in place and when we try to turn (holding the nut with pliars), it definitely won't budge. I can put down some force on it...but the screwdriver slips out of place before anything happens. We tried some WD-40 and some vinegar (acid), but that didn't help.

Any ideas on how to remove these things?? If we take it to an auto-shop, would they charge much to do it?

Thanks,
-Eric

Note: We'll try a hacksaw tomorrow/weekend, but there's not much space--maybe not enough. Also, we don't have a dremel or anything like that...so that's out of the question.
 

freakflag

Diamond Member
Mar 22, 2001
3,951
1
71
Do you have a drill? Go buy a $2 titanium drill bit...it'll chew up those screws like a Quarter Pounder.
 

Joker81

Golden Member
Aug 9, 2000
1,281
0
0
maybe try to freeze it with an upside down compressed air. Might cause the metal to shrink enough.
 

beatle

Diamond Member
Apr 2, 2001
5,661
5
81
Get some Kroil or PBlaster and give that a try. They're designed to penetrate and lubricate. WD40 isn't a lubricant, just a "water displacer" (that's what the WD stands for). Let the screws soak for a while, spraying more oil on every few hours. It helps to have a good screwdriver with a grit-blasted tip that actually fits the screw. This will allow you to get more grip. A dremel or drill might be a good investment after you try the penetrating lubricant point. :)
 

eLiu

Diamond Member
Jun 4, 2001
6,407
1
0
Originally posted by: freakflag
Do you have a drill? Go buy a $2 titanium drill bit...it'll chew up those screws like a Quarter Pounder.

How would we use the drill to remove the screw?

Cut the corners of the plate off, leave the rest on the truck
Is that legal..?

Get some Kroil or PBlaster and give that a try. They're designed to penetrate and lubricate. WD40 isn't a lubricant, just a "water displacer" (that's what the WD stands for). Let the screws soak for a while, spraying more oil on every few hours. It helps to have a good screwdriver with a grit-blasted tip that actually fits the screw. This will allow you to get more grip. A dremel or drill might be a good investment after you try the penetrating lubricant point.
Well, if the drill idea fails, we'll try this.

Thanks guys,
-Eric
 

notfred

Lifer
Feb 12, 2001
38,241
4
0
Originally posted by: eLiu
Originally posted by: freakflag
Do you have a drill? Go buy a $2 titanium drill bit...it'll chew up those screws like a Quarter Pounder.

How would we use the drill to remove the screw?

1) Put pointy end of drill on head of screw.

2) Pull trigger on drill.

3) Hold trigger until screw has been converted into metal shavings.

4) Repeat for other side.
 

freakflag

Diamond Member
Mar 22, 2001
3,951
1
71
How would we use the drill to remove the screw?


By destroying it. Choose a drillbit that is approximately the same size as the threaded portion of the screw, position the drillbit in the approximate center of screws head, pull the trigger and let the decimation begin. Of course, you'll have to pick up a couple of replacement screws, but, that's a small price to pay for the fun of kicking some rusted screw @ss.
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Originally posted by: freakflag
How would we use the drill to remove the screw?


By destroying it. Choose a drillbit that is approximately the same size as the threaded portion of the screw, position the drillbit in the approximate center of screws head, pull the trigger and let the decimation begin. Of course, you'll have to pick up a couple of replacement screws, but, that's a small price to pay for the fun of kicking some rusted screw @ss.

You will most likely have to re-tap the hole as well.
 

eLiu

Diamond Member
Jun 4, 2001
6,407
1
0
Ooh...I didn't think it could be that simple (with the drills). We'll definitely give it a shot.

Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
if there's a nut to hold onto then what's stopping you from using a socket on the nut..

Well, the nut is rusted onto the screw...or am i misunderstanding? We can't break the two things loose.
 

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
6,986
0
0
Up above, just cut the plate around the bolts.
The drill deal means you must get it fairly centered and keep it from spinning.
That can be difficult. If you don't want to cut the plate, grind the heads off,
use something bigger than a Dremal:D

Item to add to shelf in garage, if you ever see it, get an aerosol can of Nuts-Off.
Thats a name no one can forget. It is THE BEST rust dissolver I have ever used.
Kroil is good, Nuts-Off is much better. I've used it on stuff thats been on offshore
oil field platforms, it may take 24hours but it works so good it's silly.;)
 

Analog

Lifer
Jan 7, 2002
12,755
3
0
there are drill bits meant to back out rusted screws. most hw stores & sears sells them.
 

xSauronx

Lifer
Jul 14, 2000
19,582
4
81
Originally posted by: beatle
Get some Kroil or PBlaster and give that a try. They're designed to penetrate and lubricate. WD40 isn't a lubricant, just a "water displacer" (that's what the WD stands for). Let the screws soak for a while, spraying more oil on every few hours. It helps to have a good screwdriver with a grit-blasted tip that actually fits the screw. This will allow you to get more grip. A dremel or drill might be a good investment after you try the penetrating lubricant point. :)

Kroil is awesome, we use it at work and it will fecking unfreeze anything rusted.