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Remote parts..

Very cool! I need to get a blank key and factory remote for the GF's Nissan. Have you ordered from them already? If so, how was the experience?
 
fbrdphreak said:
Very cool! I need to get a blank key and factory remote for the GF's Nissan. Have you ordered from them already? If so, how was the experience?
Click to expand...

No, not yet, just found this site, It's the only one that I've seen that sells parts as well as replacements. On my GM it's always the rubber keypad not the remote itself that goes bad so buying the pad@ $6.00/each will save me some $$.
 
fbrdphreak said:
Very cool! I need to get a blank key and factory remote for the GF's Nissan. Have you ordered from them already? If so, how was the experience?
Click to expand...

You might want to try your local car audio shop for a blank key. They use them for remote starts and get them VERY cheap.
 
BUTCH1 said:
Anything but the dealer, Chevy wanted $120 for the remote and $39 to program it!..
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lol...yeah. When I was doing remote starts, every once in a while we would run out of a certain key and would have to get one from the dealer. Even with our discount it was stupid expensive.

I wonder if I could start a business reprogramming keys? I would turn a key forward and back 3 times for $40.
 
You can program a key with a transponder chip just by doing the ignition-turning process? I was under the impression the dealer had to do that.
 
For your 2008 Jeep, yes. For a 2000 Nissan that has a standard remote keyless entry and an entirely separate key with a transponder, no.
 
My Jeep doesn't start with a key...just a transponder.

And how would I know how old your GF's car is? 🙂
 
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OP has had a common problem. i'm not sure exactly what happens, but i believe the graphite or whatever they use as a conductor on the back of the rubber gets worn off.

you can test this by pulling the little circuit board out of the remote and shorting it manually with a piece of metal. if you can touch a pocket screwdriver to the little grid for the button, and it works, you know it just needs the rubber pad.

i did not, however, know that you could buy the rubbers separate. good tip.
 
brblx said:
OP has had a common problem. i'm not sure exactly what happens, but i believe the graphite or whatever they use as a conductor on the back of the rubber gets worn off.

you can test this by pulling the little circuit board out of the remote and shorting it manually with a piece of metal. if you can touch a pocket screwdriver to the little grid for the button, and it works, you know it just needs the rubber pad.

i did not, however, know that you could buy the rubbers separate. good tip.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know it's a common problem with GM, until I found this site the solution was a local locksmith @ $50 for a new FOB, programming included. I'm not sure if it's a problem with other brands or not. They also rubber covers for the FOB as well, according to my locksmith another common problem is the battery mount breaking off the PCB when they get dropped, the rubber outer shell might help in that regard. I plan on periodically bumping this thread just so maybe a few folks won't get friggin scalped by their local dealer, $120 for the fob + $39 for the programming, F-you assholes!.
 
I find that "roughing up" the little pads with very fine sandpaper usually makes them work again. What seems to happen is that an impression of the traces on the board forms in the pad, and this makes it hard to make proper contact. This is why sometimes, for a while, pressing harder makes the buttons work.
 
LTC8K6 said:
I find that "roughing up" the little pads with very fine sandpaper usually makes them work again. What seems to happen is that an impression of the traces on the board forms in the pad, and this makes it hard to make proper contact. This is why sometimes, for a while, pressing harder makes the buttons work.
Click to expand...

It does work, but only for a short while, if your beginning to have problems it's just a matter of time before you will need to replace the pads.
 
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