Refurbishing an old Swiftech Radiator

EXCellR8

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Sep 1, 2010
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I have a 120mm radiator from an old Swiftech AIO kit, one of the very first I used ever, that I'd like to reuse but it's got a couple of issues. The entire piece is in pretty good shape for being just about 11 years old but it's got fixed 3/8" barb fittings and the paint has started to chip off of the tips, revealing the brass/copper underneath. Also, this radiator has a small reservoir on top with a plastic fill cap that's pretty beat up from regular use over the years. It's just a little hard to look at but otherwise works just fine. I'm not sure what size thread it is but I'm pretty sure it's not G1/4 and I don't think they are sold anymore.

I'd like to tape and mask off the painted bits that are still good, as well as plug the inlet and outlet but I'm not sure what type of paint they use on these things. Is it just a regular black gloss enamel paint that's sprayed on or is it something else? I can post a picture of the radiator when I get home later but it was part of the H20-120 kit that was sold years ago---yes, the one with the tacky neoprene tubing and green anti-kink coils lol

35-108-100-03.jpg
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
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Sep 28, 2005
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aquarium safe paint if its going to touch wetted parts.
the last thing you want is a residue to start up corrosion.

i would also use a radiator flush you can buy at an auto store and flush the rad out.


lastly if i remember correctly, that bottom fill port cap is a G1/4.
Any barb, or cap should work.

When you get your radiator, or if you have any spare barbs, try to screw it on.
If it fits, then its g1/4 if not, then it maybe a M20
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Fillcap..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=2BBG1W3XSXZ59C7A5FQQ
 

EXCellR8

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Sep 1, 2010
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Watched a video by JayzTwoCents on painting a radiator and he used regular Rustoleum universal paint and primer; the only Aquarium safe paint I could find online was just for plastic.

I think I'll just sand the inlets, mask it up, and then flush it again afterward just to make sure there's no loose paint anywhere. Should be fine after I let it dry overnight.
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
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krylon fusion.

You can apply it to metal, it just will flake over time what your currently seeing on your rads.
Personally i wouldnt even bother with it.
I would just sand it so paint flakes dont end up getting into the system.

Once u have the tubing over those barbs, u wont even notice the flaking paint.
 

EXCellR8

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Sep 1, 2010
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Yea probably not, I just figured that fitting the tubing might cause what little remaining paint to come off. Radiator is sanded and all ready for a fresh coat; found some Prestone radiator flush in the garage that I'll run through it after everything is all said and done. Should be totally good to go after that.

I've got another issue though... with this CPU block. Seems like the previous owner used some kind of blue dye in their loop and while it comes off fairly easily with water and vinegar there's still quite a bit of it on the housing. The copper is easy enough to clean and I'll certainly hit it again before I reuse it, but the housing is pretty grimy.

2NVyY.jpg


Will obviously remove the rubber o-ring before cleaning it up but I'm just not sure how to attack it; not sure what sort of cleaning agent is safe for this specific block (Apogee XL). The ports need to be cleaned just as much as the rest of the underside but I don't want to run anything through it without knowing what to use. Swiftech's instruction manuals don't provide jack about how to go about cleaning these things.
 

aigomorla

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Definitely remove the Orings.
Whatever solvent you use, you will eat and destroy that rubber.

You can try using a toothbrush.
Get something with medium or firm brushes.

Water and some detergent soap.
Palmolive and Dawn as well as others have degreasers, so that may help with the glycol.

Pinesole according to gabe from switchtech is what he uses.

I will use warm water... soak it in hot/warm water for a bit 5-10 min, and then use a toothbrush with dishwashing detergent.

Do not use acetone, it will probably weaken the derlin or possibly even perma stain / ruin it.
 
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EXCellR8

Diamond Member
Sep 1, 2010
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You can try using a toothbrush.
Get something with medium or firm brushes.

I had just the copper base submerged in warm water and vinegar for about 15 minutes and then used a medium brush. Took most of it off but I'm going to have to try something else so maybe warmer water and dawn.

I will also try to brush out housing but I can't submerge that part because of the electrics inside. I may actually be able to remove the small PCB in there and then do a bit more thorough cleaning though--just haven't had a close look at it yet. The rubber I will just clean by hand with straight distilled water.