Refinishing old oak floor, color suggestion needed

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
5,847
154
106
We are in the middle of a kitchen remodel project. The kitchen came with some ugly linoleum floor which we pulled up. To our surprise, what looks like the original hardwood floor has been under the linoleum all these years. The boards are in fair condition and date back to the 1920s when the house was constructed. We were throwing around the idea of tile in the kitchen, but with this recently discovered free floor, we decided to refinish the floors instead.

The linoleum was glued to the hardwood with what looks like roofing tar paper, we scraped off as much as possible and then I rented a floor belt sander.

Check out these pics: https://plus.google.com/photos/115736731636406090285/albums/5866700865606242161 One pic is of the floor in progress, the black tar paper and the original dark stained wood can be seen. In other pics is the floor sanded to 100 grit, ready for any stain and poly.

1. The floor has numerous small holes. We are using a stainable wood sealer that you rub into the holes and after 15 minutes of drying, sand away with some light grit. It does a great job. There was a row of staples in the floor that once we removed, made that section of the floor look like machine gun fire. However, there are larger gaps in the floor that are presumably there from the shrinking of the floorboards. I guess we could fill it up with the wood sealer, but what do people here recommend for filling up large gaps in the floor that run the entire length of a floorboard? (some of these gaps can be seen in the pics)

Deciding on a color. The floor looks white/light tan and bright. We do not want to stain the floor with a dark color since there is an abundance of heavyset dark stain oak trim, molding and wainscoting all over the house. We think the light floor offers a nice contrast to the dark wood present in the rest of the house. We can either poly the floor as is and we think the floor will acquire a golden hue to it. Or if we stain, we'd decide on a lighter color stain and then poly which should give it a light to medium color. Suggestions?

***Update*** 4/21/2013
Ok the floor is done! 1 Mishap though. We put the first and second coat on. 15 minutes after the second coat was applied, I opened the kitchen door to show off the gleaming new floor to our neighbor. As I'm elaborating about what we did and how hard it was, the damn cat rushes inside and WALKS ACROSS the freshly polyed floor. Paw prints everywhere. The cat wouldn't come back to me and sat down in the middle of the floor curiously examining his paws. It had to be done, no amount of coaxing would get the cat to walk back to us so I flung off my shoes and walked barefoot across the floor and retrieved the cat. The floor now has paw prints and my barefoot prints in it. Rushing, I grabbed the lambswool applicator and tried to smooth out the spots but to no avail, it had already begun to set. Wearily we took the cat to the bathroom where he protested loudly to being washed with mineral spirits while we tried to loosen the hardening poly from between his paws and fur. We then had to wash him AGAIN multiple times with soap and water to get the spirits off.

Next morning, we took a depressing look at the once beautiful floor and the paw and footprints were permanently in there. Additionally, by trying to smooth out the floor, it was already in the drying stage and all I succeeded in doing was roughing the finish so it dried rough and not smooth. Sanding seemed like our only option. Got out the random orbit sander with 220 grit and made a few light passes, to our surprise the footprints reduced! They didnt come out entirely but good enough and we hoped that the next coat of poly would fill in the reduced foot prints. We vacuumed it up followed by a tack cloth and then the last coat of poly. After letting it dry for approximately 20 hours, here is the floor as of this morning: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...lbums/5866700865606242161/5869351365406740898 and here too: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...lbums/5866700865606242161/5869353063433743090. Here is the floor as the first coat is going on: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...lbums/5866700865606242161/5869352516421441362 What do you guys think? Does it need a 4th coat? This is satin finish poly with no stain underneath.
 
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Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
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With the water based polys you're not going to see much change in hue. It would be really nice to be able to have an unobtrusive place where you could lay down some samples of stain and finish to see how they look on this floor. Somewhere it would be easy to sand back off. There is no telling how a floor is going to take stain and finish until you put it down.

I was going to say dark stain because that's all the trend right now, but you ruled that out.
 

UnklSnappy

Senior member
Apr 13, 2004
626
126
116
Looks more like a maple floor to me. Which would be typical in a kitchen from that time period.

If so, you would want to use a wiping stain rather than a penetrating stain.
 
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NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
5,847
154
106
With the water based polys you're not going to see much change in hue. It would be really nice to be able to have an unobtrusive place where you could lay down some samples of stain and finish to see how they look on this floor. Somewhere it would be easy to sand back off. There is no telling how a floor is going to take stain and finish until you put it down.

I was going to say dark stain because that's all the trend right now, but you ruled that out.

I should have thought of that... We have an area that will be covered up by a stove and where cabinets will be installed. I suppose we could test there and see what the outcome is.
 

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
5,847
154
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Looks more like a maple floor to me. Which would be typical in a kitchen from that time period.

If so, you would want to use a wiping stain rather than a penetrating stain.

We were wondering what exactly the floor is...we were confused if it is red or white oak etc... Being that this is a New England house (New Hampshire) to be specific, maple could be a real possibility (house constructed in 1920s). I can post a closeup of the wood grain when I get home tonight.

What do you guys recommend to seal the long gaps between floorboards? We have this Elmer's wood sealer which is working great for little staple holes but wondering if that is appropriate for long gaps.
 

UnklSnappy

Senior member
Apr 13, 2004
626
126
116
Minwax stains are penetrating stains. Which end up looking blotchy and uneven on maple , birch and similar species.
 

UnklSnappy

Senior member
Apr 13, 2004
626
126
116
For finishing the floor my #1 choice would be Glitsa specifically the conversion varnish system. The best there is. But you'll need an organic vapor respirator to use the stuff. Distant second would be polyurethane. Anything waterbased is crap.
 

UnklSnappy

Senior member
Apr 13, 2004
626
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What's going to happen to the filler in all those gaps after a few change of seasons?

The wood has stabilized by this point in time being that old. Only thing that will really cause a problem is something like a plumbing leak.
 

Sluggo

Lifer
Jun 12, 2000
15,488
5
81
Dat gap gives character. I wouldn't fill them.

I agree with that, and I might just put a low gloss clear on the floor with no stain.

Something we have done to a red oak floor on occasion is stain the floor, then sand it again. Makes a beautiful floor after the poly.
 

edro

Lifer
Apr 5, 2002
24,326
68
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I have see floors with the gap fillers. The gap filler separates from the wood after a while.
They the vaccuum sucks them out, or they pop from traffic. Sometimes they just sit in the gap, but are disconnected, so they float around in there.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
22,281
6,455
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The color is all a matter of taste, I'm sure you'll choose well. More important than that is the very high likelihood that the old linoleum base sheet and adhesive contained asbestos. I would invest in an air quality test and some dust sampling before moving forward.
 

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
5,847
154
106
Ehh...way too late now. Sanding was already done this weekend. Floor is ready for staining/poly at this point. Oh well!
 

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
5,847
154
106
Ok so I took a closeup pic of the wood last night and based on this picture: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...lbums/5866700865606242161/5867052021666340594 I do believe I have some type of oak. Is a wiping stain or penetrating stain recommended for this?


Also here are two pics of the types of gaps that can be found in this floor. The worst gap in the entire floor is this: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...lbums/5866700865606242161/5867052064609663122

Typical gaps found in the floor looks like this: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...lbums/5866700865606242161/5867052113650120706

We don't know if we are going to seal the gaps or just leave them as is. Lke I said, it is an old house and some wear and tear such as this adds character to the wood so we just may keep it.
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
Oak

Looks like white oak, but I'm colorblind.

Those are some big gaps. A carpenter can cut out those pieces and lay in custom sized pieces he cuts down from larger pieces to fill in those gaps, but then those pieces will have to be custom stained to color match.

This all sounds really involved, but is pretty common place when restoring old floors. A lot of people just live with the gaps and think that adds character.

EDIT: I happened to be watching some youtube videos on hand scraping wood and one guy liked this finish because it's a water based finish that gives that warm look of oil.
 
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