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Recommend Some Cars on the Cheap

GWestphal

Golden Member
I'm looking to get a cheap, reliable, low maintenance car.

My ideal likes:

-100,000-150,000 miles of life left in her
-4 doors
-decent amount of storage
-AWD would be a big plus but not required
-under $9,000 for sure, under $7,000 even more preferred


I saw a 2004 buick lesabre for $5500 with about 100K on it, not the sexiest car ever, but reliable a hell. I've seen a 2003 Audi Quatro 1.8L @90K for about $6500. 2005 Passat @100K for $7000. How are the 2004 or newer subaru's I know the pre-2003s had a lot of issues.
 
Fusion in AWD and reliable

I plucked out the 500 cause it had the CVT, not good
 
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My buddy has an awd fusion first gen and we had the worst winter in decades last winter
Said it was a godsend 😛
 
The Buick would be good, I drive a 2003 Park Avenue as a winter car/daily driver and its great. The 3800 Series II motor is awesome, and parts are plentiful.
 
Anything with a GM 3800 engine:
Buick Regal
Pontiac Grand Prix or Bonneville
Buick LeSabre & Park Avenue
Chevy Monte Carlo or Impala

Saturn Vue with V6 engine/trans from Honda
 
Obligatory Accord/Camry from late 90's early 2000's. Especially 5 speed manual.

I personally really like the 98-02 Accords. You can probably get into a 2003+ easily as well.
 
You can go the Honda Accord route. I went Honda Civic. (Generally, better gas mileage)

You can get one of those at 100k and it will easily last to 200k. Many can go to 300k+ just fine.

I wouldn't buy a big car. It'll suck more fuel and, most likely, you won't use the space 99%+ of the miles.
 
You can go the Honda Accord route. I went Honda Civic. (Generally, better gas mileage)

You can get one of those at 100k and it will easily last to 200k. Many can go to 300k+ just fine.

I wouldn't buy a big car. It'll suck more fuel and, most likely, you won't use the space 99%+ of the miles.

Only problem with the Civic route is the ricer community. They tend to either be fairly expensive due to demand, or be significantly fooled around with by those types.

As for the space in a big car, I think that depends on the individual. If you're 6-3 or better, climbing into and out of a smaller vehicle can be painful.
 
Only problem with the Civic route is the ricer community. They tend to either be fairly expensive due to demand, or be significantly fooled around with by those types.

As for the space in a big car, I think that depends on the individual. If you're 6-3 or better, climbing into and out of a smaller vehicle can be painful.

Understood, but there are plenty of them that are not in that shape or fashion at all. There are many that are well taken care of. (Such as mine) From what I can tell, the ricer community is pretty relax on the 2001-2005 4 door civics. I really don't see those ever being riced out and those are well within the OPs budget.

It's basically all the Si's, coupes, and hatchbacks that they messed around with pre-2001 that they are fond of.
 
I found some 2009 camry's for a little over 9K. I've heard they are pretty reliable and get good mileage. Have there been any dud years for camry's lately?
 
Can't go wrong with a Honda in terms of reliability and I've seen some with over 300,000 miles on them.
 
Nissan Maximas. Don't hold value, easy enough and reliable enough to maintain, got a lot of power and room.
 
Pontiac vibe

I think this is the winning option. Unless you can find an old crown vic or some other American car with low miles owned by older folks, the vibe is the best choice of price/utility/reliability/gas/safety/cost to own. It was just a little too small for my long legs.

Be careful with the comments here. I had a Bonneville with the 3800 engine and the whole car pretty much disintegrated by 110k miles, had to junk it.
 
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I've got a Buick Regal with the 3800 II and its got 190k miles on it and still going strong. I'm not that nice to it either, I've had it since 95k miles.
 
I'm at some rav4s now. I like having a little extra clearance and the extra room for hauling if I go camping would be great. Anybody have or drive a rav4, it looks like the 2006-2008 models could be found in my price range. Do they hold up as well as camry's? Able to go 250-300K if taken care of?
 
I think this is the winning option. Unless you can find an old crown vic or some other American car with low miles owned by older folks, the vibe is the best choice of price/utility/reliability/gas/safety/cost to own. It was just a little too small for my long legs.

Be careful with the comments here. I had a Bonneville with the 3800 engine and the whole car pretty much disintegrated by 110k miles, had to junk it.

One of the advantages of buying a car AT 100k miles is that you'll have a pretty good idea what the condition will be like at 110k miles...and the odds of getting to 200+k miles 🙂
 
I drive a 2003 Buick Regal...they stopped making the Regal in 2004.

The Buick Century (same as Regal, but less sporty with shifter on the column and a bench seat rather than bucket seats) was JD Power and Associates top pick for Reliability in 2003.

I think they started that body style run in 1997, so you're at the tail end of engineering modifications to fix the bugs. The engine is a 3800 Series II with 200hp and 24-28mpg.

Mine has 140,000 miles on it and has had the following problems...most are with the engine, but parts are cheap and it's fairly easy to work on.

1. Heater failed to heat....$100 coolant system flush and refill with Dexcool. (red coolant) This was around 2006-2007 in the winter. It was explained to me later that Dexcool is known to clot/clump and cause build up in the heater core. Doing a flush on the system cleaned most of the gunk out and it worked flawlessly for another 4-5 years. Most books say to replace the coolant that often anyhow....I just don't follow those recommendations.

2. Ignition Switch failure (wiring harness that connects to the key lock cylinder)
Replacement part was $96 at Autozone. I was able to take the dashboard apart, pull the old one out and replace it in 2 hours. The symptom of this was the dashboard lights flashed on and off and the car would start....or wouldn't. After replacement, it's been working flawlessly for the past 4 years.

3. Small vaccuum leak. - I have not found this problem, but it shows up in the computer. It's not been enough of an issue to fix for me, but may be if you do emissions testing. It didn't show up until I hit 125k miles.

4. Heater Hose Elbows - $4 part....Had to remove alternator/etc to get to these. They started leaking coolant. After replacing these, I had my system flushed, replaced Dexcool with universal coolant (green)...$100 service charge at a mechanic shop.

5. Mass Airflow Intake Sensor failure - $55 part...replaced in 10 minutes

Common maintenance
I change the oil every 7,000-10,000 miles. I have replaced the brakes once, but they are due for new ones. I just am waiting to pour my garage floor so I have a flat place to jack my car up and replace the rotors again. This car rolls very good and it burns through rotors faster than it should. The rotors tend to need to be turned more frequently on this car because of the curb weight.


That may sound like a lot of stuff, but I've driven this car very hard. I use it to haul lumber (PM me you Email address for pics). I have driven it offroad, in snow, on ice... I am considering a new buick when I replace it though my wife hates this car. I bought it in 2004 with 20k miles for $13995.....almost half off the MSRP... I was sad when they stopped making them and the new Regals are much smaller.
 
Avoid the Audi like a plague. If the engine or transmission goes, it will be like you're buying the car all over again to fix it.
 
One of the advantages of buying a car AT 100k miles is that you'll have a pretty good idea what the condition will be like at 110k miles...and the odds of getting to 200+k miles 🙂

How could you possibly know any of that?

...because miles, like sampling, improves predictability. If a car runs great and is fit and tight fitting @ 100k, it has a proven track record and is unlikely to fall apart 10k miles later...and will as likely, if properly maintained, "go the distance"...
 
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