reciprocating saw vs. 2x4

[pontifex]

I bought a used reciprocating saw over the summer and it seemed like it worked fine. I didn't use it until recently, cut a piece of PVC pipe and it worked fine on that. Yesterday tried to use it to cut a 2x4 (out in the woods and no other cordless saws besides hand saws). It started ok but once it got part way in it pretty much stopped dead (getting stuck in the wood I guess). Tried a new wood blade for it and no change (originally had an all purpose blade in it.) The battery was charged overnight.

Seems like it should cut right through a 2x4 though...right?

 

[JEDI]

what blade r u using?

a 32teeth blade is for metal
a 8tooth blade is for wood

 

[dougp]

How old was it when you bought it? This is the reason why I purchased a wired one.

 

[phucheneh]

By reciprocating saw, we're talking 'Sawzall' style? Should def cut a 2x4, but you'll want your lumber well-supported. If cutting a free piece of wood, you need have it set up to where the pieces want to fall away from each other and keep the cut spread as you go through it. Or just switch sides halfway through.

They're much better for demo or modification of stuff that's already being held rigidly in place. If you're just looking to rip 2x4's for framing, you'll do much better with a circular saw. Especially a corded one. Chop or miter saw works, too, and will give you the best precision.

Avoid any temptation to use a table saw. I do it on occasion, but only when I just need a rough cut and can stand to the side to avoid getting clocked in the face with a board. Worst lesson was on using a guide to cut off small chunks...the outward dent in my garage says 'boy, that probably would have fucked you up pretty good.'

 

[jagec]

Battery powered saws almost universally suck. If you want portability, use a chainsaw.

 

[GagHalfrunt]

Seems like it should cut right through a 2x4 though...right?

Yes, even with the wrong blade it should easily handle a 2x4. Either the battery is not holding anything more than a tiny fraction of a charge or the saw itself is toast. Odds are it's the battery.

 

[bbhaag]

With a fresh battery and a sharp blade you should have made quick work of that 2x4. Are you sure you weren't forcing the cut by pressing to hard? Sometimes when I get impatient I try to force the cut and the blade gets jammed.

 

[TurtleCrusher]

I use a sawzall almost every day at work. A 2x4 is nothing for it. Make sure you're using the right blade, and don't force it by pushing down on it. It'll cut better with almost no pressure.

 

[Puppies04]

Care to link to the make and model, then we can tell you if it is a cheap piece of crap that isn't fit for purpose or if there might be a problem with it.

for reference I could a 2" x 4" with our 18V battery model in about 5-10 seconds and our 10.8V model would still manage it easily although it would take a few seconds longer

 

[TridenT]

Avoid any temptation to use a table saw. I do it on occasion, but only when I just need a rough cut and can stand to the side to avoid getting clocked in the face with a board. Worst lesson was on using a guide to cut off small chunks...the outward dent in my garage says 'boy, that probably would have fucked you up pretty good.'

I don't know what you guys cut with or how you're doing it, but I don't really remember any times where I got significant kickback. I've seen plenty of people throw pieces of wood across the fucking shop though. I've also seen people who've thrown their left hand right into the saw. So, I can't really say much more than that... :hmm:

 

[gorcorps]

I bought a used reciprocating saw over the summer and it seemed like it worked fine. I didn't use it until recently, cut a piece of PVC pipe and it worked fine on that. Yesterday tried to use it to cut a 2x4 (out in the woods and no other cordless saws besides hand saws). It started ok but once it got part way in it pretty much stopped dead (getting stuck in the wood I guess). Tried a new wood blade for it and no change (originally had an all purpose blade in it.) The battery was charged overnight.

Seems like it should cut right through a 2x4 though...right?

How is the wood setup? If you're doing something stupid like cutting right in the middle of two saw horses, then it's pinching the blade as its starting to fall. If you have one end on a table and one hanging free, then it should be fine.

 

[Meghan54]

How is the wood setup? If you're doing something stupid like cutting right in the middle of two saw horses, then it's pinching the blade as its starting to fall.

The simple solution to that problem is moving the saw horses closer together, leaving more of the 2x4 hanging off the ends. The weight of the ends hanging will spread open the cut as you slice.

But I doubt that's the problem. Hell, I've used a recip. saw to cut through a 5/16" hardened steel bolt, so I doubt a 2x4 is much of a problem for it.....shouldn't be, anyway.

 

[mikeford]

How is the wood setup? If you're doing something stupid like cutting right in the middle of two saw horses, then it's pinching the blade as its starting to fall. If you have one end on a table and one hanging free, then it should be fine.

+1 doing something to bind the blade, or the battery was failing.

Saws of all types are generally the worst cordless choice.

 

[Puppies04]

The simple solution to that problem is moving the saw horses closer together, leaving more of the 2x4 hanging off the ends. The weight of the ends hanging will spread open the cut as you slice.

But I doubt that's the problem. Hell, I've used a recip. saw to cut through a 5/16" hardened steel bolt, so I doubt a 2x4 is much of a problem for it.....shouldn't be, anyway.

It can depend what type of wood you are cutting and how damp it is. Wood can swell as you heat it up with the friction from a blade and trap the saw. Although I stand by my earlier comment that it really comes down to whether your recip saw is a piece of junk.

 

[notposting]

Battery powered saws almost universally suck. If you want portability, use a chainsaw.

Ehh...depends on the saw and situation. Working commercial/industrial construction, there is a mix of everything. Power can be inconvenient to find, cords can be a pita. Usually the different trades have some fixed tools set up with power (pipe fitters will have a threader, carps will have a miter saw, sparkies will have a large bender and a corded bandsaw) and battery tools out and about. I've used cordless sawzalls and bandsaws quite a bit, cutting conduit, unistrut, threaded rod, etc.

 

[edro]

NiCad or Lithium Ion?

I have always assumed cordless reciprocating saws are junk since the corded versions seem to consume so much power.
Get a corded version for ~$50 and it will always work and cut through anything.

I got my Dewalt for ~$40 on craigslist, brand new in box, lowest power version.
I have cut through 8" cast iron drainage pipes, tens of 100+ year old oak 2x4s, PVC, copper, etc. No problems.

 

[Puppies04]

I have always assumed cordless reciprocating saws are junk since the corded versions seem to consume so much power. Get a corded version for ~$50 and it will always work and cut through anything.

As was pointed out in another thread recently battery powered tools are not supposed to replace corded ones but as the years go by they get closer to being more useful. When I first started work battery drills were junk compared to their corded counterparts now there are only certain circumstances where I would choose a corded varient over a battery one although you have to be talking about high end stuff not $50 bargain bin crap.

Recip saws are the same, I see cladders using more and more battery powered ones now days for cutting sheet metal and extruded studs simply because it doesn't involve running 50m of 110V cable over a building site. Of course if you have 4-5 hours of trigger time a day then you are probably going to still go with corded version.

 

[Puppies04]

As for cost I would estimate that cordless tools are roughly 3 times the price of corded given the same quiality gearbox and a lower power output motor. You have to be in a commercial situation where that extra cost is going to be paid back by the time saved not running cables to the work place or in a situation where you just don't have access to mains power to justify them.

 

[natto fire]

Battery powered saws almost universally suck. If you want portability, use a chainsaw.

This is true for the inexperienced that just throw overkill tools at a job instead of finesse. People who know what they are doing use battery powered saws for light duty work all the time. Mind your bind!

I have one of these and have used it for cutting branches and 2x4s several times. It does go through the batteries quickly when you are cutting bigger things, (mainly use it at work to cut conduit, associated hanging hardware, and service wire) but I have 6 batteries, so that is never an issue.

OP: are you cutting a long 2x4 and binding it up, or have you tried rocking a bit on the shoe after you get the blade going outside of your kerf? I have used my saw to do a few feet of ripping before, and although it went through a whole battery, it never bound up unless I was pushing too hard or had the angle of the shoe incorrect too long.

 

[Squisher]

If I was forced to guess, I'd say that the 2X4 was shaking with the movement of the blade and so no cutting is taking place. Brace the 2X4 closer to the cut line.