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Rebuild or buy a new one, hedge trimmer

highland145

highland145

Lifer
2 cycle weed eater brand hedge trimmer. The carburetor is on the fritz. Will run with the choke half closed but won't take ANY strain. I'm handy but little (heh, no) engine experience. Rebuild the carburetor or buy a new trimmer? Is the rebuild a bigger PITA than buying another one? Learning something new is fine but I need a trimmer now.

If you think new, what brand?

Thanks.
 
How about the fuel filter?

I would spray the heck out of the carb with cleaner, and change the fuel filter.
 
LTC8K6 said:
How about the fuel filter?

I would spray the heck out of the carb with cleaner, and change the fuel filter.
Click to expand...

This. Try the easy stuff first, then see what happens.

Also it may be cheaper to replace the carburetor than purchase a new trimmer. Also if it's on the fritz already, no harm in breaking it down, right?

😀
 
try taking it apart ( be careful not to lose any of the pieces and remember all the default turns for any adjustment screws ). check for broken diaphragms and gaskets and look for clogged passageways.
 
One trick, if there are carb mixture screws(needles), is to turn them all the way in gently, and then back them out to where they were. This can help to remove any dirt or debris that tends to accumulate at the tips. Count the turns as you go, so you can get them back to where they were.
 
A carburetor rebuild kit should be considerably cheaper than a new trimmer.

But it may not be the carburetor. Take the muffler off and see if there is any piston scoring. If so, the engine is likely toast. You could also do a compression test. Below 100PSI and the engine is probably toast.
 
Your link has the parts you need to rebuild the carb=$12.00
That price was a guess -go for it-if it don't work-so what.
It may have a filter in the tank and that will give you the run for 3-4 minutes and shut off.
 
Listen to LTC6KC-You will loosen the deposits on the needles-count your turns.
Most are 1¼ to 1½ turn from being seated.
You can even repeat this a few times-seating the valve and releasing to loosen the carbon.
If it is a new or newer land weapon I doubt this will help.
 
Love you guys. I assume the filter in the tank is fine. I can blow gas back through it easily. Yeah, tube in the mouth. Please don't tell. Have never seen the like, ceramic? Cheap place to start. Left it sitting full of carb cleaner for an hour. Will see if that does the trick, tomorrow. Then Sears for the filter.

Will go for the screws, too.

Haven't seen a complete carb for sale. I'll hit Sears up for that.

Janas, we think alike. It's busted.....so......can we really myth bust it?:biggrin:

Thanks.
 
5150MyU said:
Listen to LTC6KC-You will loosen the deposits on the needles-count your turns.
Most are 1¼ to 1½ turn from being seated.
You can even repeat this a few times-seating the valve and releasing to loosen the carbon.
If it is a new or newer land weapon I doubt this will help.
Click to expand...
3 years???
 
LTC8K6 said:
One trick, if there are carb mixture screws(needles), is to turn them all the way in gently, and then back them out to where they were. This can help to remove any dirt or debris that tends to accumulate at the tips. Count the turns as you go, so you can get them back to where they were.
Click to expand...
Fixed. Excellent. Thanks.:thumbsup:
 
Good deal.
By new or newer, I just meant that it hasn't had time for the fuel to gum up or get carbon deposits on the needles and pin hole sized fuel passages in the carb.
And by carbon deposits I mean the natural crud in the air that we breath not so much the exhaust.
That little engine is running at X degrees-as soon as it is shut off the contaminates in the fuel start system to coke-I'm going too deep-sorry.
 
5150MyU said:
Good deal.
By new or newer, I just meant that it hasn't had time for the fuel to gum up or get carbon deposits on the needles and pin hole sized fuel passages in the carb.
And by carbon deposits I mean the natural crud in the air that we breath not so much the exhaust.
That little engine is running at X degrees-as soon as it is shut off the contaminates in the fuel start system to coke-I'm going too deep-sorry.
Click to expand...
😀

Aside from that, would it make a difference if I ran it dry when I was done?

Thanks again.
 
Just use a fuel stabilizer and you should be okay, and run it for a bit once or twice in the off season. Most of the 2 stroke oil these days has fuel stabilizer already in it.

My Husqvarna 350 chain saw had been sitting for more than a year with fuel in the tank. It has fuel stabilizer in it. Started it yesterday. On the second pull it started right up and ran as if I hadn't forgotten about it for a year. 😀

But it's a Husqvarna... 🙂
 
LTC8K6 said:
Just use a fuel stabilizer and you should be okay, and run it for a bit once or twice in the off season. Most of the 2 stroke oil these days has fuel stabilizer already in it.

My Husqvarna 350 chain saw had been sitting for more than a year with fuel in the tank. It has fuel stabilizer in it. Started it yesterday. On the second pull it started right up and ran as if I hadn't forgotten about it for a year. 😀

But it's a Husqvarna... 🙂
Click to expand...
This winter was the 1st time I used stabilizer. Go figure. Probably just 3 years of build up. Did have to replace the fuel lines already. Blaming ethanol, rightly or not.

Love my Husky weed eater. The next hedge trimmer will be Husky as well.
 
I have an ancient McCulloch hedge trimmer at work. The older kind that has the chrome plating inside the cylinder. It had been sitting for several years. Prior to sitting, it had been used a few times a year for it's intended purpose, and it ran like a champ.

The sitting had taken it's toll with bad hoses and milky looking plastic and no sign of running at all. Fuel residue was evident everywhere. I don't think there was any ethanol in the local fuel the last time it had been running.

I replaced all the plastic fuel system parts, including the primer bulb. Tried all the tricks I knew. Nothing. Could not get it to idle. Also could not find anything wrong. Replaced the spark plug anyway, even though I had a good spark and the plug didn't look bad.

Finally I took the carb off and took it apart. It actually didn't look bad inside, and I didn't find anything wrong in there.

Put it all back together and left it, as I was frustrated.

A few days later, I tried to start it again with some fresh fuel, and it fired right up! Still don't know what it was...but it still runs good today.
 
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