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Reapplying Thermal Compound to GTX 295
- Thread starter TidusZ
- Start date
Well, I ran into a screw that simply wouldn't budge, and I don't have a dremel to try and etch it and pull it out, so I was only able to apply the OCZ Freeze to one of the two gpu's.
Put it back together, tested it for temps. No change whatsoever - 105/104c max temp in occt 1920x1200 full screen no error checking. maybe doing both gpus woulda made it better, I'm kinda disappointed atm though.
Put it back together, tested it for temps. No change whatsoever - 105/104c max temp in occt 1920x1200 full screen no error checking. maybe doing both gpus woulda made it better, I'm kinda disappointed atm though.
TidusZ the link was deleted not for content but rather for TOS reasons. You, or anyone else who is not THE author of the linked contents, can always create a new thread containing the link in the OP.
No different from how we all make links to Anandtech articles (among others) in the forums but even the Anandtech authors of those Anandtech articles aren't allowed to create the threads themselves as a means of promoting their own articles.
If you have the link and you feel it is forum worthy information then feel free to create a thread. Once a thread is created by an OP who is not the author then the author (if they are also a forum member) can contribute to the thread at any time after the thread's creation.
This TOS is designed to so the mods can easily eliminate the 90%+ of spam crap that we would be getting hit with were it not a forum rule.
Well I suppose that makes sense, I thought it was discrimination cus he had like 3 posts.
As for the 104/105c, that's at 100% fan speed (I use custom fan profile) although in crysis it never really goes above 85ish and doesn't go 75%+ fan until 89c. It goes to 100% fan at 91c. OCCT really kicks the crap out of it, but I agree that 105 is a lot higher than I'd like. Doesn't seem I have a lot of options though.
www.nvidiagtx295.blogspot.com
On step 4 it mentions removing the 4 long screws beside the DVI ports, but it doesn't mention removing the 2 small screws above them (which are clearly removed in the picture). Also, I had a hell of a time taking out the two screws under the BFG sticker, and I couldn't get one of them out no matter what I did. Otherwise, perfect guide.
lavaheadache
Diamond Member
you reallly should make a hyperlink
GTX295Qsli
Junior Member
Hey guys... I am the author of this write up, I just wanted to chime in and see if anyone had any questions.
To TidusZ about step 4. I totally forgot to add that step in! The write up has been updated! I also pm'ed you about the problems you were having with the screws behind the BFG sticker.
To TidusZ about step 4. I totally forgot to add that step in! The write up has been updated! I also pm'ed you about the problems you were having with the screws behind the BFG sticker.
Results
I ran into a lot of troubles, setbacks, and moments of desparation (which I didn't expect to in the first place) but I finally got my card back together and working with OCZ Freeze and a bit of Thermalright Chill Factor 2 (ran outta the freeze). Pre-tim temps, 104/105, After - 91/92. Also the fps in OCCT didn't drop, as they did at 104-105c prior.
Here are the problems I ran into, and how I fixed them:
1.
difficult screw to unscrew on gpu cover shroud under sticker. might not be a problem for you guys, I couldn't get one screw out, had to use a drill to drill into it and just take it out, not reusable.
2.
Sli cable keeps unhooking when assembling card. Its barely long enough to connect both cards, and they aren't held in place by much. Once you connect both notches on the second card, you have to be super careful with it. You have to bend the backplate a lot to get the top card free from the heatsink, like "where's the vise" kind of bending just about. You have to bend it even more to put the card together without disturbing the very delicate Sli cable. I bent the backplate on a hard desk after removing it from the card. This took it out of the equation when trying to delicately put the sandwich back together without knocking out the Sli cable. Afterward, put a few screws in before bending the backplate back over the dpi ports and screwing it back in. The sli cable, and thus the pcb board, really needs to take priority.
Tips
a
When putting it back together, just throw 4 screws in each card at the corners, and give it a test run to make sure the sli cable is intact and the card's blue led lights up
b
Guide says to keep the screws separate from top and bottom. Not much need, they are the same either way. You got the spring screws, small silver screws, and small black screws. Equal number each side in the same places. After putting it together like 3-4 times you get a good feel for it.
c
Having experience with only cpu's for applying TIM, my initial technique wasn't great. After rebuilding the card 3-4 times I was able to see the pattern of the TIM on the chipset, and basically the corners weren't getting the TIM when using a crossfire design, one vertical/horizontal line in the middle, about 1/3 total diameter. After applying a small drop near the corners and rebuilding it again, it was fully covered much more nicely.
d
Guide mentions the thermal paste holds the card together like glue. Think SUPERglue, you really gotta pull at the middle, very hard. Just don't pull at the sides and snap the card, cus that'd suck.
I ran into a lot of troubles, setbacks, and moments of desparation (which I didn't expect to in the first place) but I finally got my card back together and working with OCZ Freeze and a bit of Thermalright Chill Factor 2 (ran outta the freeze). Pre-tim temps, 104/105, After - 91/92. Also the fps in OCCT didn't drop, as they did at 104-105c prior.
Here are the problems I ran into, and how I fixed them:
1.
difficult screw to unscrew on gpu cover shroud under sticker. might not be a problem for you guys, I couldn't get one screw out, had to use a drill to drill into it and just take it out, not reusable.
2.
Sli cable keeps unhooking when assembling card. Its barely long enough to connect both cards, and they aren't held in place by much. Once you connect both notches on the second card, you have to be super careful with it. You have to bend the backplate a lot to get the top card free from the heatsink, like "where's the vise" kind of bending just about. You have to bend it even more to put the card together without disturbing the very delicate Sli cable. I bent the backplate on a hard desk after removing it from the card. This took it out of the equation when trying to delicately put the sandwich back together without knocking out the Sli cable. Afterward, put a few screws in before bending the backplate back over the dpi ports and screwing it back in. The sli cable, and thus the pcb board, really needs to take priority.
Tips
a
When putting it back together, just throw 4 screws in each card at the corners, and give it a test run to make sure the sli cable is intact and the card's blue led lights up
b
Guide says to keep the screws separate from top and bottom. Not much need, they are the same either way. You got the spring screws, small silver screws, and small black screws. Equal number each side in the same places. After putting it together like 3-4 times you get a good feel for it.
c
Having experience with only cpu's for applying TIM, my initial technique wasn't great. After rebuilding the card 3-4 times I was able to see the pattern of the TIM on the chipset, and basically the corners weren't getting the TIM when using a crossfire design, one vertical/horizontal line in the middle, about 1/3 total diameter. After applying a small drop near the corners and rebuilding it again, it was fully covered much more nicely.
d
Guide mentions the thermal paste holds the card together like glue. Think SUPERglue, you really gotta pull at the middle, very hard. Just don't pull at the sides and snap the card, cus that'd suck.
Zap
Elite Member
If not putting it 100% together, I would go for the four screws around the GPU itself as you want the most pressure there. Also, when working on these cards be very careful of the inductors (I think that's what is underneath that little plastic "NVIDIA" piece). Those can get broken, and if so will brick the card.
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