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Re-alignment after front axle replacement?

StageLeft

No Lifer
I have to replace front axles on the Maxima. One place said they didn't do re-alignments after ("not necessary"), but one link I saw said it should be done. I'm doing the replacements myself and an alignment costs at least $60. It may be easier to say "yes, get it done to be safe", but truly how necessary is this? Thanks!
 
i don't know the exact process needed to replace one on a Maxima, but the axle shafts I have done have never included touching the suspension/steering, so it wasn't necessary.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
i don't know the exact process needed to replace one on a Maxima, but the axle shafts I have done have never included touching the suspension/steering, so it wasn't necessary.
I have to take what I think is called the steering knuckle away from the strut by undoing two large bolds, then after replacing the axle putting it back and the two bolts again.

Top two pictures here
 
Shouldn't need alignment. Caster/camber alignment is controlled by locating the top of the strut where it connects to the body, and toe is controlled by the tie rod ends. Neither should be touched just replacing an axle.
 
As long as you do not disturb the Tie Rod Ends or have to remove the
Strut Assembly (shock / spring) you will not need an alignment. But if
you do need to move the strut, then Scribe it's position before you remove it.
Also on most cars, you will need a large socket to loosen the nut on the end of
the Axle by the brake rotor ... That is usually fairly tight. Check shop manual for Torque.
While the axle is out, you should consider new Seals where it goes into the Transaxle.
Now is the time to change them, while you can get to easily. And since your brakes
will be apart to get the axle out, check your pads and rotors .. good time to change
if they are near end of life.
 
Originally posted by: bruceb
As long as you do not disturb the Tie Rod Ends or have to remove the
Strut Assembly (shock / spring) you will not need an alignment. But if
you do need to move the strut, then Scribe it's position before you remove it.
Also on most cars, you will need a large socket to loosen the nut on the end of
the Axle by the brake rotor ... That is usually fairly tight. Check shop manual for Torque.
While the axle is out, you should consider new Seals where it goes into the Transaxle.
Now is the time to change them, while you can get to easily. And since your brakes
will be apart to get the axle out, check your pads and rotors .. good time to change
if they are near end of life.
Yep, I have that massive socket to undo the nut. My brakes are screwed and have been for about a week so I am replacing them at the same time. I have no spare transaxle seals, though 🙁

 
Sorry n00bs, but on a MacPherson strut setup like the Max, unbolting the strut from the knuckle WILL alter the camber somewhat unless you reference it like bruceb stated. If you didn't do that the camber on that wheel will most likely be off. How far off....well, only you can tell...maybe😛

Therefore, if you're unsure, best to get it checked now.

One reason I prefer a double wishbone front end....but hardly any cars seem to have that these days. But hell, BMW uses MacPherson's so they can't be all bad right?😉😛
 
www.maxima.org for your maxima questions.

My alignment didn't change after the front axles were replaced (have a friend at just tires who does alignment for me whenever it's quiet on the weekends)
 
I do use the max.org but felt anandtech would help me out well today 😉

How can I mark on the strut any placement? There are two bolts to undo and reattach--what kind of thing could I mark; I don't see how I could rebolt it in any other fashion but that in which it was already marked (?).

Anyway, I didn't have the correct socket for the nut (4th and 5th gen maximas are different) on the wheel so I only did the brakes and will have to finish up this evening 🙂
 
The strut can move a slight amount either way due
to the mounting holes being elongated. It will not move
much, but a tiny amount can affect alignment. As to marking
it, just use a machinist's scriber to mark the metal where they meet.
 
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