I was just about to buy one at newegg along with an slk-800 when I noticed that they have no connectors included. I'm not too good with electrical things, wires, stripping/connecting etc. What's involved with getting some connectors on the end of these?
quick question about panaflo fans
- Thread starter apac
- Start date
Are you serious? Damn, anyone else done this?
Maybe I'll just get the YS TECH adjustable instead.
Maybe I'll just get the YS TECH adjustable instead.
I think mine had 2-pin connectors that I pulled out and stuck in 3-pin plugs that I cannibalized from an old fan. No RPM sensor wire, though, so one slot is empty.
just buy them from allelectronics.com...
$4.50 with a flat shipping rate... comes with a 2-pin tail that fits right into a 3-pin female.
$4.50 with a flat shipping rate... comes with a 2-pin tail that fits right into a 3-pin female.
ethebubbeth
Golden Member
- May 2, 2003
- 1,740
- 5
- 91
case-mod has the 80mm L1A for something sick like 3.75... and i think they come tailed with a 3 pin connector. If not, what i do is take a 4 pin molex Y adapter, cut off one of the ends of the Y, combine the 2 bare wires of the panaflo with the bare wire ends of the Y adapter with some electrical tape. Voila, you have a panaflo tailed with a 4 pin pass-through connector.
I always make sure I get mine from somewhere that has the tail ends already. SVC currently has them in stock for 6.99.
I don't solder, although I have no problem soldering. I used to solder nearly all day when I diagnosed and repaired circuit boards at a factory. I have built kits that required soldering >64 sockets, each with 18 pins, to the circuit board. I still would rather not solder, and there is more to joining wires than soldering. Soldering is to prevent corrosion and eventual bad contact. You have to join the connection securely mechanically first. Afterward, you need to insulate the connection. Electrical tape will do. You can also use heat-shrink tubing.
One reason I don't solder electrical connections, as opposed to electronic, is that I am forever changing my mind about what I want, and I prefer something easily reversible. The other reason is you don't have to. Electricians generally don't solder. They use "wire connectors", also called "wire nuts," little conical plastic thingees with a spingy, screw insert inside, although the smallest ones often are completely plastic. All hardware stores have them in the electrical section. The small ones are cheap. You need about the smallest ones, for #20 wire probably. You put the two (or more) bare ends together side by side and twist the wire connector on the ends. If you do it right, the connection is completely covered and insulated. For insurance, in case you jerk on the wires hard, you can wrap the wires with electrical tape, stetching it tight for a couple of loops and then not for the last couple of loops.
If you need to strip insulation, they have a multipurpose tool ("electrical pliers") in the electrical section that looks something like pliers. Unfortunately the tiny fan wires probably are too small for the smallest stripping hole. There are also wire stippers that adjust to any size with a little sliding nut, but they are kind of hard to find. What electricians seem to do though (probably because it is fast) is to just catch the wire a little in the jaws of a wire cutter (diagonal pliers) so it starts a tear in the insulation, holding the wire in the crotch by pressing a little on the wire with one finger of their pliers hand, and jerk. That rips the insulation. Yeah I know it sounds kind of tricky. Another thing which works is to crush the insulation in some pliers. That damages the insulation on small wires, after which you can pull it away and cut it off. The good thing is it doesn't put a nick in the wires.
One reason I don't solder electrical connections, as opposed to electronic, is that I am forever changing my mind about what I want, and I prefer something easily reversible. The other reason is you don't have to. Electricians generally don't solder. They use "wire connectors", also called "wire nuts," little conical plastic thingees with a spingy, screw insert inside, although the smallest ones often are completely plastic. All hardware stores have them in the electrical section. The small ones are cheap. You need about the smallest ones, for #20 wire probably. You put the two (or more) bare ends together side by side and twist the wire connector on the ends. If you do it right, the connection is completely covered and insulated. For insurance, in case you jerk on the wires hard, you can wrap the wires with electrical tape, stetching it tight for a couple of loops and then not for the last couple of loops.
If you need to strip insulation, they have a multipurpose tool ("electrical pliers") in the electrical section that looks something like pliers. Unfortunately the tiny fan wires probably are too small for the smallest stripping hole. There are also wire stippers that adjust to any size with a little sliding nut, but they are kind of hard to find. What electricians seem to do though (probably because it is fast) is to just catch the wire a little in the jaws of a wire cutter (diagonal pliers) so it starts a tear in the insulation, holding the wire in the crotch by pressing a little on the wire with one finger of their pliers hand, and jerk. That rips the insulation. Yeah I know it sounds kind of tricky. Another thing which works is to crush the insulation in some pliers. That damages the insulation on small wires, after which you can pull it away and cut it off. The good thing is it doesn't put a nick in the wires.
Electricians use wire nuts because they have to connect heavy-gauge wire together, which is difficult to solder together. It's just easier to use nuts.
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