Quick opinion? An extra fuse wired in series?

[BonzaiDuck]

I'm going to add 3" square "Pod" driving/fog lights to my Trooper. I got some RIGID SAE "D" series units, with their wiring harness -- part of the kit.

I have two options. (1) I can buy the dashboard Fog-light switch which is suddenly available at RockAuto at half what I'd seen it for at eBay a year ago. The stock/spec Fog-light relay is maybe $15. (2) I can use the RIGID harness, tap into the "Main" battery wire on the proper side of the FL-1 fusible link -- cutting into the white wire as if merely adding another fused accessory.

The first option isn't as good -- in my opinion -- because the existing OEM wiring requires the headlights to be ON in LO-BEAM to operate the fogs. If you switch to HI-BEAM, the fogs turn off. This is all a function of the OEM relay and wiring tied to the headlight circuits. I'd rather have the fogs separately switched.

The second option means I should find the "WHITE" main lead close to the interior fuse box, and run the ground wire to a known location (of several ground wires) on the engine compartment interior fender/body.

A variation of that choice would simply have me putting the proper fuse into the F-8 (fog) fuse-box of the engine compartment and tapping the Yellow-Red(stripe) Y/R wire on one side of the fog fuse. Without doing any more to the RIGID wiring harness, I would then have two fuses of the same spec in series, instead of the single fuse required.

I know this sounds ignorant or naïve, but what are the consequences of two same-spec fuses in series? I'd think a surge of current would still burn them both out at the same time.
I'd prefer not cutting up the RIGID harness. It would not be "returnable".

MODERATOR: PLEASE DELETE THIS THREAD. UNNECESSARY THAT I POSTED IT . . .

OK, OK -- Just leave it. It's turned into a different sort of discussion . . .

 

[mindless1]

None of that. Battery - Aftermarket fuse added near it - wiring harness to lights and dash switch, involving a add-on relay if the lights' current comes near the capacity of the switch or exceeds it. If lights come with a harness and need one, the relay is usually included.

It should not be grafted into an existing circuit. It should not go on and off with road legal lights because there is a high probability they aren't street legal, even if the seller lies and tries to claim they are DOT approved. There is no such thing as a dot approved (aftermarket) light.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Well, the seller, the manufacturer and buyers say they're "street legal". I personally don't like having them integrated to the existing fog-light wiring harness. In order to turn them on, I have to first turn on the regular headlights and then turn on the fogs.

It then becomes a question of how easily they can be wired. Even using the existing OEM harness, I have to add the OEM ($60) switch and fish around behind the dash to find the 6-pin plug.

If I don't, and use the kit harness, then I have to find a place to secure the relay. Not a SERIOUS problem, but I don't make quick decisions.

I've taken a closer look at the "FL-1" and "FL-2" fusible links in the engine-compartment "Relay and Fuse Box". The stock fogs using the stock relay and fuse are fused off the FL-1. I can see which side has the battery attached, and either side has an 8mm bolt. So I think I could just wire the fog-kit hot wire to the opposite bolt. Then, use the convenient grounding point for several ground wires and hook up the black wire there. Then I have to run the three switch wires with shovel clips through the firewall and snake them up to the dashboard and through the rocker-switch holes. Routing the wires to the fog-lights is a minor problem after that.

This sort of thing was a lot less difficult on an old 79 CIVIC. It has to look good, it has to work well, and it cannot be causing trouble with other things. Extra wiring harnesses are bulky. And there has to be a way to do all this so that surplus wiring is stowed out of the way, and so I don't have to patch in "extension" wiring to reach the chosen dashboard location.

 

[mindless1]

Again, not into existing wiring and not street legal.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Again, not into existing wiring and not street legal.

Then what does the description on the manufacturer's web-site mean? It says "On road" as well as off-road. They're "fog" lights -- not spot lights.

As for "into existing wiring" -- I could either wire them directly to the battery, or to the post opposite the battery connection on "fusible link". What's the difference? The only difference is they are behind the fusible link. So . . . I don't get it.

 

[mindless1]

I can write anything I want on my website. That doesn't make it true.

They can't just use the word "fog" and have it change the legality of the lights. This is going to be subject to your state's (and the individual officer seeing them) interpretation. Some states won't even allow you on the road at all without a cover over them. Turned off is not enough.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I can write anything I want on my website. That doesn't make it true.

They can't just use the word "fog" and have it change the legality of the lights. This is going to be subject to your state's (and the individual officer seeing them) interpretation. Some states won't even allow you on the road at all without a cover over them. Turned off is not enough.

Yes -- I heard or read about the covers, but I think they are required for "off-road" lights such as a light-bar.

But now that we've opened up this discussion, I ran a search on California law concerning "auxiliary" lights as well as headlights. Here's the California code, per SAE-compliant fogs and other lights. Note that CA actually REQUIRES that such lights be used TOGETHER with lo-beam headlights. This probably explains vehicle manufacturers who integrated the fog-light circuit to the headlamp circuit as done with my Trooper, and it would suggest that I might as well try to simply plug the lights in to the existing wiring harness (providing fog-light plugs under the bumper) -- although it isn't inherently ILLEGAL to have them independently switched, but only illegal to USE them independently. After you scan through this, though, check the link at the bottom for a judicial finding about OFF ROAD light usage and CHP (CA Highway Patrol) practices:

2010 California Code
Vehicle Code
Article 2. Headlamps And Auxiliary Lamps
VEHICLE CODE
SECTION 24400-24411
24403. (a) A motor vehicle may be equipped with not more than two
foglamps that may be used with, but may not be used in substitution
of, headlamps.
(b) On a motor vehicle other than a motorcycle, the foglamps
authorized under this section shall be mounted on the front at a
height of not less than 12 inches nor more than 30 inches and aimed
so that when the vehicle is not loaded none of the high-intensity
portion of the light to the left of the center of the vehicle
projects higher than a level of four inches below the level of the
center of the lamp from which it comes, for a distance of 25 feet in
front of the vehicle.
(c) On a motorcycle, the foglamps authorized under this section
shall be mounted on the front at a height of not less than 12 inches
nor more than 40 inches and aimed so that when the vehicle is not
loaded none of the high-intensity portion of the light to the left of
the center of the vehicle projects higher than a level of four
inches below the level of the center of the lamp from which it comes,
for a distance of 25 feet in front of the vehicle.

24404. (a) A motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two
white spotlamps, which shall not be used in substitution of
headlamps.
(b) No spotlamp shall be equipped with any lamp source exceeding
32 standard candlepower or 30 watts nor project any glaring light
into the eyes of an approaching driver.
(c) Every spotlamp shall be so directed when in use: That no
portion of the main substantially parallel beam of light will strike
the roadway to the left of the prolongation of the left side line of
the vehicle.
That the top of the beam will not strike the roadway at a distance
in excess of 300 feet from the vehicle.
(d) This section does not apply to spotlamps on authorized
emergency vehicles.
(e) No spotlamp when in use shall be directed so as to illuminate
any other moving vehicle.

24405. (a) Not more than four lamps of the following types showing
to the front of a vehicle may be lighted at any one time:
(1) Headlamps.
(2) Auxiliary driving or passing lamps.
(3) Fog lamps.
(4) Warning lamps.
(5) Spot lamps.
(6) Gaseous discharge lamps specified in Section 25258.
(b) For the purpose of this section each pair of a dual headlamp
system shall be considered as one lamp.
(c) Subdivision (a) does not apply to any authorized emergency
vehicle.

Now here is the 1995 CA court decision, followed by an opinion of the US Department of Transportation -- all very interesting. This was a case involving "Off Road" or "Driving" lights:

The CA State Court and DOT Weigh In

For "replacement" lamps as opposed to those equipped as OEM, the guideline only suggests that the lights should not obscure turn signal lights or damage visibility of other drivers. Otherwise, DOT kicks it back to the CA DMV and CA law. But I should probably read through it more slowly.

As I can see it, my fog lamps -- SAE compliant and limited luminosity -- are compliant as such.

You can have auxiliary lights; you can use auxiliary lights, whether they are OEM or subsequently added. There is no specific guideline as to luminosity, but there are specific guidelines about how LOW they can be installed, or how HIGH in inches they can be installed, or how they are to be aimed.

My original concern was merely to avoid clutter in the engine room, and assure that the lights tap into the battery connection so they are behind the fusible link for all other equipment and accessories wired to the car.

Once upon a time, I'd replaced battery cables in my 64 Chevy, and didn't attend to keeping them away from the engine. I think I'd just come home or was pulling up to the curb, when everything just died. And -- in the dark -- I opened the hood to find one of those new cables glowing orange!

 

[BonzaiDuck]

GETTING THROUGH THE FIREWALL

Freakin' dashboard assembly . . . so complicated . . . Amazing that I got the three switch wires through the wiring harness hole and rubber insulation, able to find the coat-hanger and wires quickly from the passenger-side floor . . . apparently no damage to anything. This is always the PITA with custom wiring. I could've used the existing relay, fuse and harness, but then I could only turn on the fogs when the headlights are on and set to lo-beam . . . Independent switching is what I want . . .

I think I'm going to proceed with this after I'm sure I didn't **** something up . . . . Probably not . . . I'll see, though, won't I? Meanwhile, tie up all that wire, relay and fuse in the engine compartment with a wire tie and shove it out of the way . . .

Glad I waited until I got this far to solder the wires to the shovel-clips for the switch . . .

Well, it's an "old car" and I can do what I want, "whatever . . whatever . . . " as they say on Jerry Springer . . .
Does this s*** make for interesting threads? Probably not -- maybe it's anal adolescent . . . Ooooo! Ooooo! Auxiliary lights! Oooooo!!

I don't think I'd do this with a brand new 4Runner. I'd buy the 4Runner with the fogs as a dealer option. . . .

 

[BonzaiDuck]

A NEAT TRICK WITH THE OEM FOG-LIGHT RELAY SOCKET IN THE ENGINE-COMPARTMENT RELAY-&-FUSE BOX

This seems really trivial and silly if I try to imagine being someone else -- a prospective listener to my chest-thumping story of triumph.

If anyone is curious and responds to this note, I'll explain it in more detail. Suffice it to say, I had asked about "cutting in" to the factory-fog-light wiring so that the 15A (blue) OEM fog-light fuse is wired in series with the RIGID D-Series-Pro harness's 15A(blue) fuse.

Some respondent had warned me -- you can check above -- "Don't use the existing wiring! Just connect the fog-light harness to the battery!"

And of course I didn't want to strip any wires; didn't want to cut or splice any wires; didn't want to modify my OEM wiring harness in any way.

So . . . there's the vacant socket in the relay-fuse-box for the fog-light relay. Four little slots awaiting a factory/OEM relay. Slot "# 2" is the connection to the OEM fog-light fuse, in turn connected to the 80A Fusible-Link #1, which then connects to the battery's POS terminal. And all I needed do was to replace the copper-loop connector in the RIGID harness with a simple little Male shovel clip.

Schwee-eet!