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Quick electrical / light switch question...

skypilot

Golden Member
I've replaced all the light switches in my kitchen due a remodel, and they all work except the one for the external floodlights.

I figured that I just wired it incorrectly, so I tested it with a multimeter, and I found the "hot" (120V) wire. My worry is that I cannot tell the ground from the AC return path (not sure if that is the correct phrase for what it is). Both test as 0V on the multimeter and all 3 wires come into the switch from the same conduit.

Does it matter which of these two I attach to the ground or switch on the light switch?

Thanks in advance!
 
If it's 3 wires you have either a 3 way switch circuit, or a hot, a switched leg and a ground. That's assuming I understand what you're asking.

Regarding the ground and neutral, the ground wire will be green or bare, the neutral will be white. If it's in pipe there might not be a ground wire, they could be using the pipe as the ground conductor.
 
I don't think it's a good idea to hook appliances to the true ground
edit: I mean besides the designated ground connection of course
 
Originally posted by: Greenman
If it's 3 wires you have either a 3 way switch circuit, or a hot, a switched leg and a ground. That's assuming I understand what you're asking.

I believe it would be a hot, a switched leg, and a ground.
 
Originally posted by: skypilot
Originally posted by: Greenman
If it's 3 wires you have either a 3 way switch circuit, or a hot, a switched leg and a ground. That's assuming I understand what you're asking.

I believe it would be a hot, a switched leg, and a ground.
Then take the bulb out of the fixture and measure for currant from the hot to the other two wires, the dead one will be for the fixture.
 
Originally posted by: Greenman
If it's 3 wires you have either a 3 way switch circuit, or a hot, a switched leg and a ground. That's assuming I understand what you're asking.

Regarding the ground and neutral, the ground wire will be green or bare, the neutral will be white. If it's in pipe there might not be a ground wire, they could be using the pipe as the ground conductor.

All wires are jacketed, and the jacket on all wires is black. I believe this is a "ghetto-job" by the previous homeowner.
 
Originally posted by: Greenman
Originally posted by: skypilot
Originally posted by: Greenman
If it's 3 wires you have either a 3 way switch circuit, or a hot, a switched leg and a ground. That's assuming I understand what you're asking.

I believe it would be a hot, a switched leg, and a ground.
Then take the bulb out of the fixture and measure for currant from the hot to the other two wires, the dead one will be for the fixture.

The "fixture" is a series of three dual-floodlight external fixtures. I took a bulb out of the first fixture, and did the measurements you recommended. Both wires (when tested w/ hot) showed a 120V circuit.
 
Originally posted by: skypilot
Originally posted by: Greenman
Originally posted by: skypilot
Originally posted by: Greenman
If it's 3 wires you have either a 3 way switch circuit, or a hot, a switched leg and a ground. That's assuming I understand what you're asking.

I believe it would be a hot, a switched leg, and a ground.
Then take the bulb out of the fixture and measure for currant from the hot to the other two wires, the dead one will be for the fixture.

The "fixture" is a series of three dual-floodlight external fixtures. I took a bulb out of the first fixture, and did the measurements you recommended. Both wires (when tested w/ hot) showed a 120V circuit.

Take all the bulbs out, then try it.
 
Originally posted by: LordSnailz
it shouldn't matter which one you connect the hot to, both should have a path to ground.

The neutral and ground do indeed end up at the same place, but you never want to use the ground as the return path. The ground should only carry fault currant.
 
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