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Question on rj45 connectors.

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ingeborgdot

Golden Member
I am running some cat5e cable to another room to run another computer and to run into my stereo also.
I will run two cables to a wall connector from my router. I have set the wall connector up with the T568A arrangement. Is that ok?
My question is how should I set up the cords running from the router? What arrangement and how should I set up the male end of the main cords running to the other room? Does this make sense? Thanks.
 
Because the money saved on making your own short patches is close to nothing, and most cables crimped by none professional crimpers cause sooner or later cramps.

Many of these cables seem to work OK, but actually cause signal loses that can be discovered only by very expensive cable tester.
 
Originally posted by: ingeborgdot
Why a commercially made cable?
Click to expand...
Firms like Monoprice.com sell prebuilt CAT6 cables for a dollar or two in typical lengths. You really can't build them for less, it's a pain to make and crimp them, and hand-made cables are much more prone to long-term failure than a commercially-built cable. Also, commercial cables contain stranded cores, which are more appropriate to a cable being used to connect to a PC.
 
So, what about these long runs that people make and have to crimp their own. Why would their be failure? If it is done poorly, I can see, but when I am doing it I check very thoroughly for errors.
 
It is hard to get a perfect crimp for the ends, unless you use a pro line full ratchet crimp tool. And even then you need to be sure the wires and cable jacket are fully seated into the plug. It is now much easier to crimp a CAT 6 end since it uses a fanning strip to align the wires into the pins
and also to be sure the jacket is seated. The only way to tell if your wiring is good is with a LAN Cable Tester and they are not cheap. As to your choice of 568A colors, that will work, but most premade data cables are 568B and that is how I terminate my keystone jacks.
 
With the cabling I did the requirement was T568A hooking up to the Russound receiver.

So, now what if I want to buy a patch cord from Monoprice, will it work with my 568A arrangement?
 
Originally posted by: ingeborgdot
So, what about these long runs that people make and have to crimp their own. Why would their be failure? If it is done poorly, I can see, but when I am doing it I check very thoroughly for errors.
Click to expand...

ive done those. i didnt have a huge amount of problems, but enough that i wouldnt ever do them again if i dont have to. and unless youre doing a very oddball custom-run to something where a punch-down is not an option at all, avoid it. punch-downs are easy, cheap, more reliable.
 
Originally posted by: ingeborgdot
With the cabling I did the requirement was T568A hooking up to the Russound receiver.

So, now what if I want to buy a patch cord from Monoprice, will it work with my 568A arrangement?
Click to expand...

a cable run should be terminated to the same standard at each end.
If you terminate a run with -A on one end and -B at the other, you have made a crossover run or cable.
A standard patch cable is alike on both ends and it won't matter what you do.
 
All the runs I have are 568A. My question is about if I buy a patch cord from Monoprice. What standard do they usually come in? If it is a B standard, will this work with my system?
Also, on my long runs the one end will be punch down into control switches for my whole house audio. The end has to be connectors to fit into the receiver.
 
Most patch cables are 568B .. the only difference is in which colors go to which pins .. it still connect 1-1, 2-2, etc thru 8-8 whereas a crossover cable swaps a couple of pins for the xmit & rec paths .. this is done by using 568A colors on one end & 568B colors on the other end.
This page shows the differences between them (568B is the Bell system preferred method)

http://www.cablesplususa.com/rj45-utp-guide.htm
 
As far as pinouts, the only need is to have the follow the same standard at both ends of a cable.
Originally posted by: ingeborgdot
So, what about these long runs that people make and have to crimp their own. Why would their be failure? If it is done poorly, I can see, but when I am doing it I check very thoroughly for errors.
Click to expand...
Virtually EVERY OFFICE I see with hand-crimped cables will have many cables where the cable's jacket has pulled away and now the only thing stabilizing the cable are the individual crimps on the eight tiny wires. Yank on that cable a bit and now you have a wire with a loose electrical connection, and a bill to troubleshoot the ensuing network problem.

I've NEVER had a problem with a punched down cable, nor with a commercially-built patch cable. It's always the home-made stuff that gives the problems.
 
What's a punched-down cable?

My cousin's home has bare CAT6 wires (no jacks at the ends) originating from a closet to various rooms. It was done during a remodel a year or two ago and I guess the installer just left the wires bare. I figured I'd just get a crimper and jacks and do it for her...looked easy enough to do. But after reading this thread and not having crimped wires of any kind before, doing it myself doesn't seem like such a good idea anymore.
 
All you need to do is get wall plates with Keystone RJ45 jacks and punch the wires down on the jack ... The jack has the colors right on it's label. Next, mount the plate to the wall with some plastic anchors and screws. Then buy premade patch cables to attach the computer or router or printer to the port you want to use .. it should not take more than 15 mins per jack to finish each one.
 
Originally posted by: bruceb
All you need to do is get wall plates with Keystone RJ45 jacks and punch the wires down on the jack ... The jack has the colors right on it's label. Next, mount the plate to the wall with some plastic anchors and screws. Then buy premade patch cables to attach the computer or router or printer to the port you want to use .. it should not take more than 15 mins per jack to finish each one.
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Thanks, went to Lowes for the keystone jacks and it looks easy enough...each jack comes with a punch tool. CAT6 keystone jacks cost twice as much as CAT5e

Why is there a difference between CAT5e and CAT6 jacks anyways? It looks like the same amount of wires/conductors.
 
Originally posted by: jrichrds
Why is there a difference between CAT5e and CAT6 jacks anyways? It looks like the same amount of wires/conductors.
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Use the jacks that match the type of cable that needs to be punched into it. There's apparently a difference in the diameter of the copper wires in CAt5e versus CAT 6 cable.
 
Originally posted by: RebateMonger
Originally posted by: jrichrds
Why is there a difference between CAT5e and CAT6 jacks anyways? It looks like the same amount of wires/conductors.
Click to expand...
Use the jacks that match the type of cable that needs to be punched into it. There's apparently a difference in the diameter of the copper wires in CAt5e versus CAT 6 cable.
Click to expand...

Not only that the entire properties need to be up to spec. The entire reason for category rating is to adhere to certain electrical properties for the bandwidth needed.

Don't muck with the physical layer. Do NOT muck with the physical layer.
 
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