Question for the "Pimp my RIDE" aficianados

[BonzaiDuck]

This has got to be the screwiest poll for information ever posted here, but this is the Cases & Cooling forum -- it's the right place, as ye shall see . . .

I can post a picture later -- and it's already been posted in earlier threads. Not that important at the moment -- this is easy to imagine.

Two things I want to do in "Pimping my Rig:"

1) The system currently uses motherboard ducting with prototype, cheap foam-art-board for the ducts. I want to rebuild the ducts following the prototype as guide with clear Lexan plastic. And I want to make the Lexan surfaces look like chrome when the CCFL and / or LED lights are off, and transparent (more or less) when the lights are on.

2) I want to do the same thing with the case-side-panel window -- which is also Lexan.

I've purchased a roll of Mylar Window Film at Home-Depot, after scouring the local (California) auto-parts stores for Gila window film. Law says they can't sell it in auto-parts stores here -- it varies by state -- but CA won't let you use it for the forward windows of your pimped-out RIDE. So -- fine -- I picked up more of the stuff than I bargained for at Home-Depot.

Gila says that their adhesive may discolor acrylic, plexiglas or Lexan -- reacting with the "organic" molecules of the plastic surface. I tested a 5"x5" piece on some scrap lexan, and it goes on and appears just as it would with glass. Gila says if you're not worried about the appearance from a transparency perspective, you can go ahead and use it. I don't see a problem.

HOWEVER -- I DO remember putting this stuff on my car windows. I DO remember seeing people's cars who didn't take pains with it -- I'd sneer at them on the highway.

Can anyone think of the best way -- using dish-soap and water solution -- to apply an 18" x 22" rectangle of the Mylar to the Lexan (same size) so that it "looks ree-uul guud?"

I was thinking I could find a (very clean) tupper-ware tray, immerse the Lexan just below the surface of the water, wet down the Mylar, and apply it at the water surface. Then carefully pull it up and squeegee like hell . . . . .

 

[alaricljs]

The discoloration of the lexan will not be immediate. It takes time for these chemical reactions to happen. You heat it up and it'll take less time and the inside of your PC is a perfect place for it. you might take that demo piece you stuck together and leave it in your rig for a week and see what you get.

As to the people that have bad film jobs (no, not the B movie bimbos)... There are 2 major reasons for this: They weren't patient or they didn't squeegee out all the bubbles/water/whatever they used. If there's the slightest bit of moisture between the glass and film the sun/heat vaporize it and make a huge bubble.

You can try using alcohol instead of water, it'll evaporate more readily through the film. In the small sizes you're doing it should be doable however alcohol will not let you glide the film as easily if you need to. Using surface tension in a bucket of water is a neat idea too, just make sure you get the water out.

Edit: One more thing, apply a larger sheet of film so that you can trim to size after application instead of trying to slide the film. It'll just be easier that way.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Thanks, alaricljs. I'll experiment with some alcohol on some more scrap.

And wait a week to see what I get. If I continue with this chrome-obsession-thing, there's also a "cling" version of the same film Gila says is better for the plastics. I rather doubt that just because it uses "static cling" to hold itself to the surface, that it's any more of a hazard to the electronics than the Lexan or foam-board -- it would still be non-conductive.

Anyway, this is So-Cal. The AC bill was high this month. My kitchen garden could use some extra sunlight -- even reflected -- and if I have lots of leftover, or scrap the idea for the computer, I know where I can use that film.

[I still cannot believe the lengths to which I've gone on the cosmetics. Three years ago, I built my Prescott system with an old Gateway tower, and felt happy with IBM beige, no removable side-panel, and no window . . . . . If everyone has to drive, a car can be a status-symbol. Let's face it -- our little community here is the only group for which that's possible with computers, and if some case-mod gets "ooohs and ahhhs," the wonderstruck compagneros will find a way to do-it-themselves . . . ]

 

[BonzaiDuck]

UPDATE:

ON USING MYLAR WINDOW-FILM WITH LEXAN

GILA, who makes the window-film, cautions that using the film on plastic like Acrylic, Plexiglas or Lexan may make an opportunity for their adhesive to react with the organic molecules of the clear plastic and cause it to discolor. They said "if you're not concerned about the appearance of the window where you can see through it -- go ahead -- it'll work."

As mentioned in the above posts, I experimented with it on some scrap. There was never any apparent discoloration.

It may be that letting the window and its adhesive dry in the sun might cause the discoloration. But since I couldn't see any, I went ahead with my plan to do the side-panel window.

There was the issue about "wrinkles and bubbles," and I mentioned using some very large tray to submerge the Lexan panel, letting the Mylar film settle onto the surface so that there was ample moisture to smooth the film with a squeegee.

Then, it dawned on me -- if I didn't remove the lexan plate from the side-panel, the rubber-grommet made a perfect shallow tray to hold soapy water. I was able to cut the Mylar to shape, and it went on the Lexan with near-perfection. With this film, no matter how much you clean the surface, there are always going to be a few particles that get trapped near the edges. But -- I'm happy with it.

Chrome Lightning progress shot

 

[aigomorla]

u really should migrate to water.

Im dying to see what inspiration you would get if you had total control of where heat was going and exiting.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Well, I said before that I would probably be inclined to do that. I think the case-mod anticipates it pretty well.

I CAN control where heat is going and exiting -- with the ducting mod -- but you would be right to say that it's a lot of trouble. Air is less efficient, although air is still a feature in water-cooled systems. Right now, I've cut panels to replace the foam-board prototype, but yet to finish.

With the ducting, I can cool things that would require additional "water-attention" that water-cooler enthusiasts may miss. I saw a thread here recently from someone with a WC-ing rig whose chipsets were getting too hot. So I can see the possibility that a hybrid of duct-panels and hoses is feasible.

You also may remember I was going to Teflon-grease-lube the exhaust fans. Never got to it -- in the meantime, the motor-component of the noise just disappeared!!

The system is so quiet that I keep putting off installing the thermal sensors to the mobo and expanding "thermal control" of fans.