• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Question about Zalman fans

MisterDonut

Senior member
I've noticed that Zalman ZM-F3's haven't been that popular lately as fans, and I've read a few older round-up reviews. I'm just looking for somebody who has experience with it operating on a heatsink, particularly a TRUE, which is what I use. Quick question, quick answer 🙂. Thanks in advance.
 
They're good, but they sit in a middle range between yates and s-flex/gentle typhoon for both price and performance (Usually around $5/$10/$15). With a $5 difference either way, they decide to go cheap or spend a little more.
 
Ah, since I switched out a fan for a GT, I'm beginning to notice the huge difference in sound (had a Panaflo U1BX previously >.>). Time for undervolting 😀. Thanks.
 
Hmmmm, expected you to respond with Scythe Mugen 2. 😉

I truly believe that fan control should be required by law on every machine. Whether mobo, manual rheobus, aerocool touchscreen, fan-mate whatever...there are times when some/all fans should probably be at full speed, but for the other 90% of the time I'd like to save my ears and the ears of people who don't know any better.
 
Haha I admit 🙂. I am a really strong advocate of that HSF. I've seen miracle temps for $35 (when they were). Even for the $40 they go for now, some miracle temps. SCYTHE MUGEN 2 ALL. It's like aigo and the Scythe GT. We both know them Japanese products are kickass.

I was rather fond of the Panaflo pushing that much air at first...until I decided that enough air had gone through my case...

On an off-topic note, you wouldn't happen to know/seen anybody who's done a sound dampening mod on an Antec 900, would you?
 
Antec 900's fatal flaw for "silence" is that damn big plexi panel with vent. You'd need to close that whole thing up, and since it's plexi you'd have to hide your repair work somehow. I've seen people completely replace the stock plexi with a thicker piece and no vent (saw a 1200 with GLASS). I'd probably remove the plexi and rivet a steel or aluminum panel on there and coat the inside with dampening material.

joe - we reference them all the time. No worries.
 
Yeah, I thought that the window was the culprit. I haven't tried it, but as a wild idea, you couldn't just use the other side panel? I've never heard of anybody doing that nor have I tried myself, so I wouldn't know. I assume the hooks are in separate places but just maybe? I know Antec sells replacements online. My gut tells me it won't work, but maybe if I suggest selling a plain panel, think they would bite? I'm not too tool handy, though I'm willing to learn, of course. I'm not too interested in having an open window, so maybe I'll rivet a new panel on. Would it work if I removed the side fan holder, cover the vent, flattened the surface, and just applied dampening material to cover it?
 
In concept, yeah, that would work. Whatever you do you need to make sure that there aren't any loose fittings that would cause a rattle, and that the door still fits properly (easy to accidentally bend hooks when modding). I still think it would be easier to remove the stock plexi and replace it.
 
Back
Top