Question about installing a drop in sink- ordered wrong length. handy folks help!!!

evident

Lifer
Apr 5, 2005
12,090
701
126
We ordered a 33 x 21 inch stainless steel sink to replace our POS double basin sink which cant fit any pots.

The problem is, our old sink is 33x22. I measured the length opening and it's 21 inches. Now I know that we can drop the sink in without an issue as it will still fit in the hole, but i'm afraid it might be too heavy if it's only the width part of the structure holding it?
Could I create a one inch long shim/spacer and drill it into the inside of the counter to reduce the length to 20 and have it support the sink, or would this be a bad idea? It's a formica countertop. I think this would solve the problem of spreading out the weight evenly among all sides of the sink.

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MagnusTheBrewer

IN MEMORIAM
Jun 19, 2004
24,122
1,594
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We ordered a 33 x 21 inch stainless steel sink to replace our POS double basin sink which cant fit any pots.

The problem is, our old sink is 33x22. I measured the length opening and it's 21 inches. Now I know that we can drop the sink in without an issue as it will still fit in the hole, but i'm afraid it might be too heavy if it's only the width part of the structure holding it?
Could I create a one inch long shim/spacer and drill it into the inside of the counter to reduce the length to 20 and have it support the sink, or would this be a bad idea? It's a formica countertop. I think this would solve the problem of spreading out the weight evenly among all sides of the sink.

You're not being very clear. What do you mean by "only the width part of the structure holding it?"
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,973
6,334
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Water leakage is more than weight....but I stayed at a HoJo last night.

Just seal it well.
 

evident

Lifer
Apr 5, 2005
12,090
701
126
Paint, motherfucker. Do you speak it?

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Water leakage is more than weight....but I stayed at a HoJo last night.

Just seal it well.
I think the water leakage problem would be if i just threw the new sink on without creating the spacer. i'm going to be putting silicone around the edges regardless. its always wet around the sink right now. Do you think with the spacer i would still have leaking issues?
 
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who?

Platinum Member
Sep 1, 2012
2,327
42
91
This reads like a problem for "Ask This Old House" either Tom the contractor or Richard the plumbing and HVAC guy could solve this.
 

NoTine42

Golden Member
Sep 30, 2013
1,387
78
91
Instead of centering, I would do a proper overhang in the front so you only have a filler in the back. At least there would be less of a problem where it is most visible, but it's still not a good long term solution.


With Granite installations, it's not unusual for 2 granite slabs to be joined....in the middle of the sink cutout, (cutouts make the slab weaker and the seam is less visible there) so I guess those sinks are mostly side supported.
 

evident

Lifer
Apr 5, 2005
12,090
701
126
Instead of centering, I would do a proper overhang in the front so you only have a filler in the back. At least there would be less of a problem where it is most visible, but it's still not a good long term solution.


With Granite installations, it's not unusual for 2 granite slabs to be joined....in the middle of the sink cutout, (cutouts make the slab weaker and the seam is less visible there) so I guess those sinks are mostly side supported.

If I do what you proposed, then the back would be exposed to the shim/spacer.


I think I'm going to have to eat the return cost and buy another one
 

WHAMPOM

Diamond Member
Feb 28, 2006
7,628
183
106
We ordered a 33 x 21 inch stainless steel sink to replace our POS double basin sink which cant fit any pots.

The problem is, our old sink is 33x22. I measured the length opening and it's 21 inches. Now I know that we can drop the sink in without an issue as it will still fit in the hole, but i'm afraid it might be too heavy if it's only the width part of the structure holding it?
Could I create a one inch long shim/spacer and drill it into the inside of the counter to reduce the length to 20 and have it support the sink, or would this be a bad idea? It's a formica countertop. I think this would solve the problem of spreading out the weight evenly among all sides of the sink.

i-p2F5cGQ-L.png

As long as the new sink covers the patch. Use hard wood for the shims, use waterproof glue along with screws, don't know why it won't work out.
 

NoTine42

Golden Member
Sep 30, 2013
1,387
78
91
If I do what you proposed, then the back would be exposed to the shim/spacer.


I think I'm going to have to eat the return cost and buy another one

That's probably best. I think "trying to make it work" would have a high probability of becoming a countertop replacement project in the next year or 2.
 

MagnusTheBrewer

IN MEMORIAM
Jun 19, 2004
24,122
1,594
126
Op, what you want is a hoody ring or rim. It's a metal trim piece that fits around the sink and effectively makes the flange larger.
 

DrDoug

Diamond Member
Jan 16, 2014
3,580
1,629
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You could make an insert that makes the hole the size you want and then use some thick aluminum strip/plate underneath to join the counter to the shim. Drill holes in it and screw them together from the bottom. Out of sight, corrosion resistant (use stainless screws too) and strong.
 

boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
18,883
641
126
I don't see any problem with what the OP wants to do in theory. Attach filler strips to the front and back of the opening to make it smaller so there will be support. I would glue the strips with a waterproof glue as well as screw them into the countertop.

The problem may be that the cutouts for the openings in a laminate countertop are often done with a sabre saw. Which means it's not a straight cut. So making those two surfaces straight and true may necessitate making the opening still larger.

If the seams are covered by the flange, it should look fine cosmetically. The sink would have a bed of silicone under the flanges so water leakage into the seams where the strips are applied should in theory not be a problem.

Fastening the sink from underneath might only be desirable on the ends as one wouldn't want to put too much pressure on those filler strips even if they are glued and screwed in place. Still, I think it's doable.

I've never heard of what Magnus is proposing but that sounds like the hot setup if you don't want to return and order another sink.
 

evident

Lifer
Apr 5, 2005
12,090
701
126
You could make an insert that makes the hole the size you want and then use some thick aluminum strip/plate underneath to join the counter to the shim. Drill holes in it and screw them together from the bottom. Out of sight, corrosion resistant (use stainless screws too) and strong.
I like this idea, I would create wooden shim, cover the surface with the aluminum strip and glue/screw it into the countertop. Only big issue as the poster below you is i have to make it all flush with the countertop.

One big reason I'm against returning is that I would have to probably eat a $70 shipping cost to return the thing to overstock, since it was our fault we ordered the wrong size. In addition a comparable sink at lowes is about 50% more than what I paid for this one, a Kohler i think, and is made with an 18 gauge steel. The one I have is very nice looking, 16 gauge steel. Link
 
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skimple

Golden Member
Feb 4, 2005
1,283
3
81
I like this idea, I would create wooden shim, cover the surface with the aluminum strip and glue/screw it into the countertop. Only big issue as the poster below you is i have to make it all flush with the countertop.

One big reason I'm against returning is that I would have to probably eat a $70 shipping cost to return the thing to overstock, since it was our fault we ordered the wrong size. In addition a comparable sink at lowes is about 50% more than what I paid for this one, a Kohler i think, and is made with an 18 gauge steel. The one I have is very nice looking, 16 gauge steel. Link

I think between your time, and the incidentals that you'll have to buy to shim (unless you happen to have aluminum stock lying around), you can easily eat up $70.

I would buy one that is the correct size.

You'll never regret using the right materials for the job.
 

evident

Lifer
Apr 5, 2005
12,090
701
126
I think between your time, and the incidentals that you'll have to buy to shim (unless you happen to have aluminum stock lying around), you can easily eat up $70.

I would buy one that is the correct size.

You'll never regret using the right materials for the job.
you're right. i just returned the damn thing. i've already spending too much time thinking about this. it pretty much ruined my birthday and made me more depressed than i already am for turning 29.

I can't stand my current sink. it's a nice corian sink that's virtually indestructible but the two basins make using it horrible. I remember there was a few weeks ago in OT about whether people prefer a single basin or double basin. I can't even fit a 12 inch skillet in either basins and any time i wash stuff water gets everywhere. to top it off the faucet is corroded and water was leaking all underneath the sink which put me over the edge

this was supposed to be an easy half day project which has now turned into a whole night of researching shims and getting knowledge on what to do.
 
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