Quality difference between dealer/OEM and OEM manufacturer?

[jlee]

The timing belt/water pump is past due on my '07 Lexus GX470 (previous owner was mistaken when they advised me it had been done). An Aisin kit is half the cost of going through a Toyota dealer (even with a 25% discount):

13505-0F010 IDLER TB                     $ 72.77
13540-50030 13540-50030 TENSIONER TB     $ 48.27
13503-0F010 IDLER TB                     $ 73.03
13568-09070 13568-09070 BELT, TB         $ 45.82
16100-59275-83 PUMP ASSY WATER           $107.30

Total $347.19+tax (vs Amazon @ $173.82+tax or RockAuto @ $163.63 shipped

I believe they come with OEM-manufacturer components (Aisin water pump, Koyo idlers, Mitsubishi belt), but I'm not sure if there's different QC for stuff sold by the dealer vs stuff sold by Amazon/RockAuto/etc. Does anyone know?

My Aisin water pump in the MR2 has been fine (non-dealer), but if that breaks I'll just get towed. If the GX470 breaks down in the middle of nowhere, it's going to be a huge pain in the ass...if the parts are identical, there's no reason to pay twice as much. However, if there's tighter QC for dealer-sold parts, then it's worth the money to me.

I'll go OEM/dealer for coolant/thermostat/t-stat gasket/radiator cap. I'm also preemptively replacing the radiator with a Koyo unit (OEM is known to start leaking eventually).

 

[leper84]

I have no idea if there is a difference in quality between a kit that says Toyota versus an Aisin branded kit. You would think Aisin would save some money making more of one kind of kit and putting them in different boxes vs. changing manufacturing to slightly downgrade. I can tell you I've put on more Aisin kits than I can remember and have not once had a warranty issue, or even a defect before installation.

I can tell you there is a huge quality difference between an Aisin kit and that garbage Gates or store brands sell.

Aside from that- are you putting it on yourself? Those are some of the easiest belts to do out there if you follow the instructions exactly as they say. Off the top of my head you set tdc, rotate either forwards or back 20 degrees (important to keep the belt lined up and hooked on the crank) and then you line the timing marks on the cams/crank with the indexes on the belt. Its great because you have a tiny bit of leeway to move the cams back and forth if you're fighting tension on the belt; since you're setting everything up off of the markings on the belt you don't have to keep everything exactly locked down in relation to the heads or oil pump.

 

[jlee]

I have no idea if there is a difference in quality between a kit that says Toyota versus an Aisin branded kit. You would think Aisin would save some money making more of one kind of kit and putting them in different boxes vs. changing manufacturing to slightly downgrade. I can tell you I've put on more Aisin kits than I can remember and have not once had a warranty issue, or even a defect before installation.

I can tell you there is a huge quality difference between an Aisin kit and that garbage Gates or store brands sell.

Aside from that- are you putting it on yourself? Those are some of the easiest belts to do out there if you follow the instructions exactly as they say. Of the top of my head you set tdc, rotate either forwards or back 20 degrees (important to keep the belt lined up and hooked on the crank) and then you line the timing marks on the cams/crank with the indexes on the belt. Its great because you have a tiny bit of leeway to move the cams back and forth if you're fighting tension on the belt.

Good to hear that it's easy - the last timing belt I did in-car (excluding my MR2, because the motor was on a stand) was a Subaru and it was a bitch with four cams, one on knife-edge at TDC.

The Aisin water pump I bought for my MR2 had grind marks on the casting where "Toyota" would've been...so I suspect it might be the same, but I'm curious if anybody has more concrete info. I'm glad to hear of your good experiences!

 

[thomsbrain]

There are probably a number of sites that specialize in Toyota/Lexus OEM parts at similar discounted prices to the "non-OEM-branded" parts. There's certainly plenty for Honda and Nissan. Most of these sites are actually web store fronts for dealer parts departments selling online at a significant discount. Dealers (and independent mechanics) always charge at least list price for B&M parts, but they get them way cheaper and can afford to sell online for a lot less and still make a profit.

 

[Zenmervolt]

The only time I've ever felt the need for OEM parts has been in cases where there is no realistic alternative, which is usually things like trim and bodywork.

Just an example, the alternator on my 951 finally gave up whatever sort of ghost an alternator manufactured in 1986 can be said to have. The "OEM" alternator from Porsche is over $800. An "aftermarket" Bosch alternator is $220. When I pulled the original off the car, it was stamped "Bosch" in several places, though it also carried a Porsche part number.

I wasn't able to tell any difference in build quality between the old and new parts.

As long as the replacement is from a reputable company, I'd say you're fine.

ZV

 

[jlee]

It's expensive in case of catastrophic failure (interference motor) so I'm a little more cautious than I'd be otherwise. It does sound like I'll be safe with Aisin aftermarket, though.

 

[boomerang]

I think another thing that is entirely possible with dealer parts on an older vehicle is that you still don't have any guarantee that they were manufactured by the original OEM supplier. The car maker could have changed suppliers and perhaps even multiple times. Even if the tooling (if that's even applicable) was bought by whomever is making them now there is no guarantee that the components are identical in quality.

On a water pump are the seals the same as the original, the bearing(s), etc. Does the shaft have the same metallurgical properties, does the casting? I think you get the idea.

IMO it's a crap shoot with no way to know for sure.

 

[eng2d2]

Aisin are good parts. I have timing belt kits from Aisin for my toyota. I haven't installed it yet but from research they are OEM just rebadged. Thats why I bought AIsin.

There is a ebay dealer that sells the aisin kits and very reasonable. Don't remember the seller name but you can search.

 

[Zenmervolt]

It's expensive in case of catastrophic failure (interference motor) so I'm a little more cautious than I'd be otherwise. It does sound like I'll be safe with Aisin aftermarket, though.

Also, just FYI, the Toyota group is 30% owner of Aisin.

ZV

 

[Pulsar]

There are probably a number of sites that specialize in Toyota/Lexus OEM parts at similar discounted prices to the "non-OEM-branded" parts. There's certainly plenty for Honda and Nissan. Most of these sites are actually web store fronts for dealer parts departments selling online at a significant discount. Dealers (and independent mechanics) always charge at least list price for B&M parts, but they get them way cheaper and can afford to sell online for a lot less and still make a profit.

Gotta be careful. There's different types of 'OEM' parts.

For instance, initial parts that don't meet quality requirements are sold to Brands that repair and resell them. They are OEM..... but they aren't. Many times you'll find the cast-in brand name ground off them. Speaking from a manufacturer's point of view, sometimes we throw out parts for VERY good reasons - and sometimes they are suspect and we throw them out because it's better safe than sorry. Good luck......

Then you've got the original supplier of the part, who supplied it to the manufacturer, but because their purchase agreement is over is now selling the part direct at a discount. These guys usually just modify the molds since they have them on hand.

Then there's OEM from the actual car company itself, where they either make it themselves, or take delivery from their supplier, slap a 10 or 20% markup on it, and sell it to you (usually through the dealership).

 

[evident]

I don't know the answer to your question, but when an O2 sensor died on my RX350 I purchased a Denso "OE Equivalent"from rockauto. the one i removed from the car was also a denso, everything down to the wire length and clip locations were identical. the only visual difference i noticed was that there was "TOYOTA" laser etched on the O2 sensor i removed from the car, whereas the replacement one didn't.