PSUs. Is there a way to tell if its "overloaded"

[BoomAM]

Is there a way to tell if my PSU is being "overloaded".
At the moment, im running a 360W Chieftec PSU.

With the following connected(listing all that can take power from PSU);
AMD AthlonXP1800@Stock
Abit KT7A-RAID
768mb PC133
9700pro@Stock
SB Audigy
SIIG 3 port Firewire400.
Lite-On CDRW 48x12x48
Lite-On DVD 16x
Maxtor 7200rpm 40gb
Maxtor 7200rpm 120gb
Floppy Drive
MS Internet Keyboard
iPod (charges off PC)
5 YS-Tech case fans.
1 YS-Tech 80mm, on SLK-800.

So as you can see, while not top of the range, it is a highly kitted out rig.
Im starting to wonder if my PSU can handle the load. Cos since adding the 120gb drive, its stability is a bit dodgy(or it could be me noticing it more cos im looking out for problems). It`ll just restart itself, for no reason. Every now and then. Not all the while, not often, but "once in a blue moon".
So then. Power Issue or not? Or could it be the Via chipset on the mobo? Cos ive heard that the KT133A chipsets tend to have stability issues

According to Via Hardware monitor, here are the voltages. They seem fine to me.
3.3v = 3.49v
5v = 5.10v
12v = 12.31v

Thanks in advance.

##EDIT##
Forgot.
I was going to be buying a 460W Enermax PSU is January(with the rest of my upgrade [A64+1gb mem. mmmmm...])
Is it worth buying it now instead?

 

[wfbberzerker]

well, all those voltages seem to be within spec, but you do have a lot of stuff hooked up to your psu... it's possible that an overloaded psu could be the problem.

 

[BoomAM]

Any other way to confirm?
Or should i take it as being fine, and blame my VIA chipset for the instability?

To lessen the load, what you lot reccommend doing? Disconnecting the floppy? (its never used, only when upgrading, can plug in when needed). A few fans?

BTY. I have other devices, but they are mostly self powered.
For example. My MX700, while connected to the USB port, is powered from the mains. And my ADSL modem/camera, are connected to a powered USB hub.
So they should all take no power from the PSU. Right?

Using this utility i found;
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I get 354W PSU needed. Thats still under what my existing PSU will do. So i should be ok, shouldnt i?

 

[wfbberzerker]

thats running it pretty close... remember, the hotter your psu gets, the less wattage it pumps out. i would think about getting that new psu sooner. the longer you run your current psu at close to 100% capacity, the sooner it will die, and possibly take something with it.

 

[BoomAM]

Im thinking of buying a Antec TruePower 430W.
Ive heard that they are better than the Enermax`s 460Ws. Cos they have dedicated lines for each voltage.
Will a 420W be enough for future use? I plan to upgrade to a A64 XP3200, 1gb ram in January. Will a 430W be enough for that? Or should i spend the extra and get a Antec TruePower 480W, or even the 550W?

 

[arcenite]

Originally posted by: BoomAM
Im thinking of buying a Antec TruePower 430W.
Ive heard that they are better than the Enermax`s 460Ws. Cos they have dedicated lines for each voltage.
Will a 420W be enough for future use? I plan to upgrade to a A64 XP3200, 1gb ram in January. Will a 430W be enough for that? Or should i spend the extra and get a Antec TruePower 480W, or even the 550W?

You wont go wrong with the Antec True series. I am running the TrueBlue 480 and I absolutely love it.

Bill

 

[rbV5]

You wont go wrong with the Antec True series. I am running the TrueBlue 480 and I absolutely love it.

I used to love mine too. However, I've been experiencing odd graphic corruption over the last week or so. Out of the blue, bam it would hit for no apparent reason. For some reason I hadn't been running ASUS probe, but fired it up to check my voltages...sure enough my +12v rail was low (~10.8v) after being up and running for a while, ASUS probe alarm pops up, +12v @10.3v to be followed shortly by my graphic corruption.

Looks like RMA time for the antec, popped in an enermax EG351P-V that came with a case I picked up a bit ago. Its not the most powerful on the +12v rail, and I have 5 fans in the case, but so far so good and no graphic corruption and 12.3v on the +12v rail.

Its likely just an anomalie, as I've had great luck with my antec PS in the past. I still have an older 300watt smartpower that was powering this rig fine, and it working great in one of my secondary PC's. I'd probably go with a true control model now instead of the true blue.

 

[BoomAM]

So....430, 480 or 550W.
Now they`d all do (i think) for my existing system but what about for my future system?
Opinions?

 

[BoomAM]

Right then.
Ive checked what ive got on this week, and i wont be able to get to OC UK (where i`ll be getting the PSU from), till Friday.
So what ive done, to help, is dissconnect the Floppy drive (windows still thinks its there), one of the 3 intake fans, and one of the exhaust fans. Unfortunatelly, that has raised my windows temps (ie; non intensive/internet usage), from 39*c to 41*c. But still well within spec, and still alot lower than i know alot of ppl here are getting, temp wise.
With a bit of luck, that`ll shave a few Watts of what im using, and help stabilty till i can get to OC UK.

Here are the Antecs im looking at bty.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Antec_103.html

 

[jiffylube1024]

Originally posted by: BoomAM<
AMD AthlonXP1800@Stock

^ This is a big power draw, so at stock it should be fine. If you were pushing it high in speed/voltage then I'd recommend a new PSU. You have a ton of fans, so you're probably close to the threshold of what your PSU is capable of.

If you want to do some serious overclocking with your next upgrade, I'd recommend a 430W or 480W PSU. Otherwise, ~350W (name brand) should be acceptable for running at stock.

 

[BoomAM]

Originally posted by: jiffylube1024
If you want to do some serious overclocking with your next upgrade, I'd recommend a 430W or 480W PSU. Otherwise, ~350W (name brand) should be acceptable for running at stock.

Probably go for the 480W. It`ll give the rear of my PC a nice glow (next to wall, so it`ll light that up as well).
I plan on OCing the new parts when i get them. Alot. Going watercooling as well, so a better PSU will be better.
So would a 480W Antec fit my needs? Or would a better one be needed?
My existing PSU is a "name brand" one. Its a Cheiftec 360W. Which is basically a older generation Antec.

 

[BoomAM]

Double Post !!!

 

[azev]

I have 250W power supply on my dell poweredge600sc and I have 5 120GB WD drives, 1 raid card, and 2gigs of ram, and the good thing is, its runs just fine.

 

[jiffylube1024]

Originally posted by: BoomAM

Originally posted by: jiffylube1024
If you want to do some serious overclocking with your next upgrade, I'd recommend a 430W or 480W PSU. Otherwise, ~350W (name brand) should be acceptable for running at stock.

Probably go for the 480W. It`ll give the rear of my PC a nice glow (next to wall, so it`ll light that up as well).
I plan on OCing the new parts when i get them. Alot. Going watercooling as well, so a better PSU will be better.
So would a 480W Antec fit my needs? Or would a better one be needed?
My existing PSU is a "name brand" one. Its a Cheiftec 360W. Which is basically a older generation Antec.

The 480W Antec would probably be the best solution. It's a great PSU!

 

[BoomAM]

Good.
Cos i`d prefer not to pay £100 for a PSU.
£70 for the 480W seems pretty good.

 

[Regs]

After seeing NFS4's thread I'm a little reluctant to get a Hammer 3200 set up right now. His mobo seems very buggy.

I also remember the price of a 2500 AMD being 300 dollars, a few months later it dipped down below 200. This is what I'm hoping the 3200 hammer will do. Optimistic yes, by highly worth the wait since I don't see many great reliable mobo's for the 64 yet. To early to even tell any how which mobo is reliable.

 

[T8000]

Your PSU is not overloaded.

I know that because I have a 300 W PSU myself, as it proves to be sufficient for my hungry setup (see below). The most likely cause of instability is the chipset of your mainboard.

Normally I would recommand an Intel chipset, as they provide superior stability and best of class performance. But since you have an AMD CPU, this is not an option, so the only option is to buy a mainboard with very good RMA conditions, to test for yourself wich one is stable.

For your A64 upgrade plan, I can only say that you can buy an equally performing, but far more stable P4 upgrade for half the money.

 

[BoomAM]

Originally posted by: Regs
After seeing NFS4's thread I'm a little reluctant to get a Hammer 3200 set up right now. His mobo seems very buggy.

Can you give me a link?

I also remember the price of a 2500 AMD being 300 dollars, a few months later it dipped down below 200. This is what I'm hoping the 3200 hammer will do.

Same here. Hoping that A64 3200 is reduced in price by January/February

To early to even tell any how which mobo is reliable.

By the time i buy, there will hopefully be quite a few different A64 mobos out.

Originally posted by: T8000
Your PSU is not overloaded.
I know that because I have a 300 W PSU myself, as it proves to be sufficient for my hungry setup (see below). The most likely cause of instability is the chipset of your mainboard.

I thought that, but since unpluggin 2 fans, the stabilty has been perfect.
You have a good system, but as far as power hungry componets go, yours only has the CPU and GPU to deal with. I have multiple large capacity, 7.5k rpm drives, 6 case fans, loads of periphals, ect; So a power problem would be more apparent on my system.

Normally I would recommand an Intel chipset, as they provide superior stability and best of class performance. But since you have an AMD CPU, this is not an option, so the only option is to buy a mainboard with very good RMA conditions, to test for yourself wich one is stable.

Until Intel offers processors that perform the same as AMD ones, at the same price, then Intel is off my list. A 3.2 P4EE might well outperform a Barton3200, but bare in mind that a Barton3200 is significantly cheaper, is only slightly slower, and is clocked at 1ghz less. Alot of people forget that when comparing.

For your A64 upgrade plan, I can only say that you can buy an equally performing, but far more stable P4 upgrade for half the money.

I`ll be using the A64 long term. The 64bit compatibility will allow a longer term than the P4 would.

 

[Regs]

Linktafied

 

[BoomAM]

Thanks for the link.