PSA: If you're replacing the intermediate steering shaft on your GM product.....

[Meghan54]

Don't be an idiot like me and neglect to replace the lower steering column bearing that's sitting right there.

Did the steering shaft yesterday, took all of 20 min. with a break between removal and replacement (I have a partially herniated disc in my back and being under the dash caused a certain amount of discomfort, hence the break.)

And the bearing was just sitting there, begging to be replaced. But smart me, I ignored its pleas to remove it and put the new one in I'd ordered. Part was my back pain, part was wasn't sure how to remove it. (I used a long handled flat blade screwdriver and rubber hammer, "tapped" it out.)

While the shaft replacement did remove about 90% of the clunking emanating from under the dash, it didn't fix the whole problem. Reach under the dash and the bearing's very slightly loose when I tried to move it.....dammit.

So, spent another 12 min. under the dash today replacing the bearing and now no more clunking at all. Should have done it all in one fell swoop.

Word to the wise, learn from my "mistake"....replace the darned bearing while you have the shaft out. It'd be easier and you're about guaranteed to fix the problem completely.

 

[Bartman39]

Just want to say thanks as I am about to replace the shaft on my 2004 Dmax which just recently started making the noise ... More aggravating than anything but know it needs to be addressed and knowing about the bearing is good too... Sorry to hear your back has its issues and shame you cannot just replace parts and have a "guaranteed" fix for it as well...

thanks for the tip...

 

[phucheneh]

Which problem have you guys got? The looseness at the splines at the bottom (minor) or the whole 'U-joints falling apart' thing?

I've never seen the problem in the bearing...actually, come to think, the ones I've done for horrible U-joint slop has the bearing made into them, I think? Equinoxes are what immediately come to mind.

 

[Meghan54]

Which problem have you guys got? The looseness at the splines at the bottom (minor) or the whole 'U-joints falling apart' thing?

I've never seen the problem in the bearing...actually, come to think, the ones I've done for horrible U-joint slop has the bearing made into them, I think? Equinoxes are what immediately come to mind.

What the "F" are you talking about? There are no splines involved.....

The problem is the infamous GM steering shaft clunk, addressed by GM several times. It has nothing to do with the U-joint, actually.

The shaft problem is because the shaft is a two-piece design, which has an inner shaft and outer shaft. Over time, the inner part of the steering shaft, which slides on a plastic piece inside the outer sleeve of the steering shaft, begins to develop a bit of slop from wear, at least that's the supposition being made. GM won't say what the actual problem is but given the design and the first attempt at a fix GM made was to fill the outer sleeve with grease, it's pretty safe to assume that's the iss problem.

The other problem, the one with the bearing, has really nothing to do with the bearing and everything to do with the housing the bearing's pressed into. Being another plastic part, it appears to be slightly undersized in some instances and wears quickly where it goes into the upper steering column.

Here's a pic of the bearing installed into the steering column:

You can see the whitish bearing "container" that's in place in the lower end of the steering column. When it wears, it begins to rock in the steering column and make/enhance the clunking noise.

Simple fix, but irritating to work on.


And for your education to help know it all, phuch, here are pics of the shaft:

Collapsed:

Extended:

Closeup of the problem area.....the plastic part that is inside that's the core of the ISS problem:

Notice the U-joint is press fit onto the unit and the entire ISS comes as a non-rebuildable unit.

 

[Meghan54]

Just want to say thanks as I am about to replace the shaft on my 2004 Dmax which just recently started making the noise ... More aggravating than anything but know it needs to be addressed and knowing about the bearing is good too... Sorry to hear your back has its issues and shame you cannot just replace parts and have a "guaranteed" fix for it as well...

thanks for the tip...

Not a problem. If I helped you and anyone else keep from wasting time and effort, good job done. You're welcome.

 

[Sluggo]

Didn't do the bearing when I did mine, but nice to know it's an easy issue to rectify if it does go bad.

 

[phucheneh]

Sorry to chap your ass, Meghan, o' master of crappy steering columns.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=gm+steering+column+grease+splines

And yes, they also most definitely made cars with u-joint issues, as well. If I happen across any more of them, I'll be sure to save them for you.

I've never had to replace a bearing. Sorry for asking about it; woe is me for I hath shown my inferiority to you.

 

[alkalinetaupehat]

Hey I've got the clunk in my G6, is it something I need to replace ASAP or is it just annoying?

 

[BlitzPuppet]

Greased with some silicone grease at the access point when I had my 04 Impala and the clunking disappeared. I just had to peel a grommet back and squirt until it started leaking out.

 

[Meghan54]

Greased with some silicone grease at the access point when I had my 04 Impala and the clunking disappeared. I just had to peel a grommet back and squirt until it started leaking out.

Yep...that was the first fix GM tried. It'd last a few months before the clunking would come back. Strange....who'd have thought the grease would migrate down that shaft to the bottom, beyond the point where it could help.

And that fix was discontinued by GM years ago as they tried new internal designs of the steering shaft. From my reading, it seems GM's third try, the current shaft in the supply chain, has proven to be a long term fix.

 

[philipjohn52]

I've got a 59,000 mile 2004 Yukon XL 4WD that has had the steering clunk/tighness/vibration for the past 10,000 miles. I checked all the parts in the front end, and they were all OK. I read all the blogs and agreed that it must be the upper intermediate shaft. After reading all the negatives about the Dorman replacement shaft, I went to [gratuitous link tovendor site deleted] and for $78.79 delivered I ordered the GM 3rd generation shaft. It came today, I put it in and WOW! What a difference, drives like a new car! GM finally got it right!!!

Now, for the replacement details:
1. Remove the two 7mm nuts holding the lower dash panel on the driver's side
2. Carefully pry off the panel by tilting out and down to release the two upper tabs
3. Untighten the bolt holding the bottom of the saft in the engine compartment, but leave the nut on for now
4. Turn the steering wheel to expose the bolt on the upper part of the shaft under the dash and use the seatbelt to hold the wheel in position
5. Loosen the upper bolt and re3move it and the nut to free the upper shaft
6. Remove the three 10mm nuts holding the rubber shaft housing that's mounted on the firewall
7. Carefully remove the bottom of the old shaft from the lower shaft sleeve and carefully remove the entire assembly from the firewall
8. Clean all the excess grease from the inside of the rubber sleeve, put the new shaft in and slide it back thru the firewall
9. Reconnect the upper shaft bolt and nut and torque to specs
10. Reinstall the shaft sleeve with the 3 10mm retaining nuts
11. Reconnect the lower shaft bolt and nut and torque to specs
12. Reinstall the lower dash panel and tighten 2 nuts
13. Remove the seat belt and enjoy the new steering feel of your truck!

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