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proper torque by wrench method

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rh71

No Lifer
I've been doing a few things to my wheels so I've had to use a torque wrench at home quite a bit recently. Read an article that stated I should drop the wheel to where it's just touching the ground to stop any rotation but no load and only torque halfway. Then drop all the way and torque to spec. But shops with lifts always do everything with no load, and with an impact wrench no less. My fronts spin freely if up in the air so doing it by hand is different. Logically it seems tightening with full load prevents any lateral movement for the wheel/hub to meet and with the negative camber it doesn't seem it could be the most flush this way.

I ask because I notice slight vibration at highway speeds ever since I started messing with it and BMWs are sensitive as fvck. It could be that I didn't clean the hub/spacers too well but I thought I'd get this right first.

What's the right way to do it?
 
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Every single wheel I've ever removed/replaced I've slightly more than hand tightened in the air, and dropped it afterwards and tightened.

Could you have knocked off a counterweight?
 
Every single wheel I've ever removed/replaced I've slightly more than hand tightened in the air, and dropped it afterwards and tightened.

Could you have knocked off a counterweight?

I used to do this too until I put on a pair of spacers. You have to be very precise when you're using them or you get vibration. A torque socket wrench only runs like $10 at Harbor Freight. Handy thing to have.
 
I notated the amount of weights I had on each wheel after initial balance and they are all still there. Good thought though.

Fritzo what's the method you use?
 
If you're torquing it with weight on the wheel the wheel *may* be pushed off-center, more likely if the wheel isn't hub-centric. I can't say that I've ever had it happen to me, but I can see where the idea comes from.

I use a light-duty impact to snug everything in the air, then drop on the ground for a final torque. However, all of my wheels are hub-centric, so this shouldn't even really be needed.
 
I've always used a short 3/8" ratchet with the wheel unloaded to snug the lugs using a crossing pattern to help ensure the loading is even. Then lower it and use the torque wrench to bring to spec using the same crossing pattern.
 
I've always used a short 3/8" ratchet with the wheel unloaded to snug the lugs using a crossing pattern to help ensure the loading is even. Then lower it and use the torque wrench to bring to spec using the same crossing pattern.

Same.
 
I spin them down with the ratchet or breaker bar in the air, then after it is back on the ground, torque them down (on my car wheel lugs are 90 FT/LBS) .. And I would not trust any shop I see using an impact gun to tighten the wheels. They do make Torque Sticks that limit the amount an impact gun applies, but not too many shops use them.
 
I spin them down with the ratchet or breaker bar in the air, then after it is back on the ground, torque them down (on my car wheel lugs are 90 FT/LBS) .. And I would not trust any shop I see using an impact gun to tighten the wheels. They do make Torque Sticks that limit the amount an impact gun applies, but not too many shops use them.

I had to go back to the shop because I couldn't even loosen a couple of the bolts with a bar they were so tight. He claims he torqued them (I watched him only use the gun the day before) but as I took the others off I could tell they were done to various specs. Anyway, he loosened them with the gun and I torqued it on the spot.

I don't expect shops to stand there with a torque wrench, but over-tightening past the point where I couldn't even get it off is a bit much.

Or get properly fitting wheels. 😛

OE: limited and boring options. Not sure what else you mean by properly fitting. Even the ones I had before had the proper hub bore and matched OEM sizes - it still had issues.
 
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I use a shop in Fairfield, NJ that does tires only. Euro Tire ... they do use a torque wrench and they adjust tires pressures when they work on the tires. They work on all cars, but specialize in high end performance cars.
 
OE: limited and boring options. Not sure what else you mean by properly fitting. Even the ones I had before had the proper hub bore and matched OEM sizes - it still had issues.

I meant proper offset by properly fitting. Half joking. I'm not a fan of spacers. Especially when people start getting stupidly large spacers.
They tend to cause too many issues.
 
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