PROJECT: LCD with less motion blur than CRT! (Homemade 3D LightBoost hack)

Mark Rejhon

Senior member
Dec 13, 2012
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Hello!

I'd like to introduce myself as the BlurBusters Blog -- www.blurbusters.com
-- working on a zero-motion blur LCD project
-- hobbyist blog on my research project for a home-made monitor mondifcation
-- home-made 3D Lightboost style backlight hack for an existing computer monitor;
Short story: Done via using ultra-short, ultra-bright backlight flashes (shorter and brighter than CRT phosphor illumination), using 150 watts of LED per square feet of display: An insane amount of wattage 10 times bigger than the average current monitor at average brightness. Essentially, it a homemade turbo-charged equivalent to 3D Lightboost, but primarily designed for motion blur elimination during 2D. Allows simulating CRT flicker in an LCD, essentially.

--> zero motion blur LCD is possible as an expensive user modification hack to an existing gaming LCD monitor!!! <--
(by adding 250+ watts of LED's to a 24" monitor for a ultrashort strobe backlight)

First, a relevant Anandtech's article...
AnandTech recently had an excellent article about 3D LightBoost being a strobed backlight that also reduces motion blur. This is a good small explanation to excellent mass-market start to bringing an optional strobed mode to an LCD display backlight, even if it's not nearly short/bright enough to completely eliminate motion blur. Having worked in the home theater industry before, I have a good familiarity with displays and how LCD's work -- including how 3D LightBoost work. Also, I'm familiar with the existing commercially-developed strobed/scanning backlights found in high-end HDTV's for home theater. However, very few (almost none) computer monitors do this, and I'd like to do this myself, as a computer monitor hack -- a user modification of a computer monitor.

The dominant cause of motion blur is no longer pixel persistence
Most motion blur on today's recent LCD's is because of eye-tracking on a sample-and-hold display. LCD refreshes are continuously shining on most LCD displays. Pixel persistence is mostly in the first 2ms of a refresh on a good LCD display. (That's barely more than 10% of a refresh at 60Hz -- 2ms out of 16ms for 60Hz. And especially good 3D LCD panels that now erases most of pixel persistence after the first 2ms with so little remnants leftover nowadays). The vast majority of the remainder of motion blur is because our eyes are continuously moving even during a statically displayed LCD frame. (Proof: Science & References) Eye-tracking-based motion blur is separate of pixel-persistence-based motion blur.

The LCD panel technology is already here; some new panels is not a limiting factor.
The zero-motion-blur-*capable* LCD panel technology is here today: 3D 120/144Hz panels. These 3D 120Hz panels have been able to finally virtually erase pixel persistence effects very quickly well before the end of a refresh -- a pre-requisite for 3D shutter glasses operation, because both shutters are closed while waiting for the LCD to refresh. To make 3D possible, monitor manufacturers have worked very hard to erase pixel persistence effects as quickly and as much as possible. This has the fortunate side-effect of making the panels capable of zero motion blur, if using an appropriate super-charged strobed backlight.

But, how do we bypass pixel persistence as the motion blur barrier!?!?
You simply strobe the backlight on an already fully-refreshed LCD refresh; completely bypassing pixel persistence. Keep the backlight turned off while waiting for pixel persistence (so pixel persistence effects are 100% unseen by the human eye). THEN strobe the backlight on a fully-refreshed LCD image. Strobe 120 times per second for 120Hz. Your strobes can be shorter than the pixel persistence. With 8 milliseconds at 120Hz, and pixel persistence only 2ms, you have plenty of time to find a window to strobe the backlight for a short time period (e.g. 0.5ms or 1ms). One backlight strobe flash per refresh. Strobing like a CRT.

...But backlight technology isn't yet!
To flash the backlight for very short time periods, without a dim picture -- you need a REALLY bright backlight -- as bright as CRT phosphor. (Have you seen how insanely bright CRT phosphor is for a tiny fraction of a second? See high-speed-video of CRT scanning -- phosphor overexposes the camera).

You need....150 watts of LED per square feet to equal CRT phosphor brightness
Manufacturing such a theoretical ultrabright backlight is extremely expensive -- easily over $1000 of backlight technology for a 24" monitor -- in order to achieve a zero-motion-blur LCD.
.....Even the very few ultra-expensive monitors that use extremely bright turbocharged strobed backlights for 3D Lightboost 2 (e.g. Asus VG278H, and the upcoming Asus VG248QE), don't output enough lumens/wattage in sufficiently short enough strobes, to reduce motion blur to be less than a CRT, and most 3D Lightboost 2 features is only used in 3D mode (which is too bad -- as the optional strobing also benefits 2D motion blur reduction too, if it can be made an optional 2D feature).

...Fortunately, LED technology has advanced sufficiently
There are now several ways way to squeeze more than 250 watts of LED's in a single 24" monitor (I purchased a kilowatt worth of 6500K ultrabright white LED ribbons - see photos of my LED ribbon). As an alternate approach if it ends up easier (still in testing) -- I can do an edgelight: There are ways to cram 250 watts of light into an 24" edgelight (e.g. bulky box at top or bottom edge of an LCD panel) -- e.g. line of Cree 5-10W LED's overcurrented by 3x during strobes -- going through a long, small glass prism to focus all that LED light into a tiny slit at the bottom edge or top edge of a LCD. (This is the backup approach -- essentially, a bulky box edgelight at top or bottom edge -- to replace the puny thin edgelight -- a turbocharged edgelight 10x brighter, and simply re-use the LCD panel's existing edgelight optics like optical diffuser sheets etc).
Regardless, any of these user-modification options cost several hundreds of dollars because of the high cost of this amount of wattage of LED's.
-- LED's can be safely overdriven for short periods, so strobing can permit about 3-4x the amount of light from LED's versus steady state, to compensate for the long dark periods between strobes (e.g. for 120Hz, 0.5ms backlight flash followed by almost 8ms of darkness, every refresh). A bit of extra heatsinking and maybe a backlight fan needed (like a projector -- because my LED's are projector-bright) -- but still 10-20x more compact than a CRT, and technology will improve. (You may also notice that LED's are also used in some projectors too)

...How do you synchronize the strobes to the display refresh?
That's where a simple Arduino circuit comes in. It taps into the vertical blanking signal inside the monitor (a single solder connection into monitor's electronics), or from a DVI/HDMI dongle (VSYNC detect) with a wire going into the Arduino. There's a manual phasing adjustment (strobe timing offset) which can be adjusted on PixPerAn motion test until the motion blur completely disappears (ala CRT style). I've already created the circuit, but have not yet attached it to the LED's in a monitor.
...In fact, to eliminate any soldering into a computer monitor electronics (unmodified monitor electronics) -- I've also been able to do software-based VSYNC too from computer-to-Arduino USB signalling. It's accurate because I'm using microsecond timecoding via Direct3D programming API RasterStatus.ScanLine() (tells me how long ago the last VSYNC was) combined with programming API QueryPerformanceCounter() -- to make it 100% immune to CPU fluctuation and USB variances. The equivalent microsecond accurate timer in Arduino can then compensate for any early/late arrived VSYNC signalling. In fact, VSYNC's can be extrapolated inside the Arduino program for several seconds, so I only need to signal the VSYNC once every few seconds -- so it's also freeze-proof too). Viola, CPU-fluctuation proof, USB-ping-variability-proof, and software-freeze-proof. The hardware method is preferred (console compatible!), but the software method works & is practical for complete flexibility (if you prefer zero modifications to electronics of an LCD monitor)... It's actually open source code, will release the code sometime next year once I've got the complete desktop prototype fully built.

...What monitor am I modifying first?
Curretly testing the LED's and backlight optics on cheap old/discarded LCD's before I do destructive modifications to an expensive monitor -- first one to be modified will be either cheap Asus VG236H or Samsung S23A700D; since these are often on sale for cheap -- any good 3D 120Hz panel are an excellent candidate for a monitor hack like this. Ideally, the very best 3D panels with the most perfect refreshes (e.g. the 144Hz panels) will be the ones that perform the best with the monitor hack, but those panels are far more expensive.

...Wont it flicker??
Not worse than a CRT at the same refresh rate. If you loved CRTs, you'll love this project. If you hated CRT's, you'll not care. I'm targetting 120/144Hz strobes, so flicker should be a nonissue (for most eyes at least...) Just like CRT's at 120Hz; those don't flicker annoyingly. Besides, it's software configurable. You can turn on/off the strobing -- so it can just be a steady continuous 25-watt backlight instead of a short 250-watt flashes.

...Is it compatible with 3D shutter glasses???
Yes; it just behaves like a homemade 3D Lightboost - the extra bright strobes can be timed to occur while shutters are open (via the strobe timing phasing adjustment), and it's quite equivalent to the way nVidia seems to have apparently designed their 3D lightboost; it's just simply a strobed backlight -- very simple science.

...Does this add Input lag??
A very, very, very tiny bit. Half a frame average. A strobed backlight at 144Hz refresh, adds about 3.5 milliseconds of input lag. (You're already getting roughly this added input lag anyway, if you're enabling 3D Lightboost2 anyway) However, the elimination of 95% motion blur allows that perfect "CRT fluid motion" -- now you can identify faraway snipers in 3D FPS shooters far more than 3.5 milliseconds quicker, because you can see them sharply while turning/moving, without stopping turning/moving first (like you have to do with many LCD monitors in order to identify small details). The lack of motion blur far outweighs the approximately 3.5 milliseconds of extra input lag since you're more quickly identifying enemies that are no longer motion-blurred while you're moving about in videogames.
(Even so, playing single player games are wonderful on a CRT with beautiful 3D scenery with the immersive feel of zero motion blur on CRT ...and now the same feeling is now possible on LCD panels!)

...Is it really zero motion blur???
Not if you have robot eyes. But for human eyes; at 0.5 millisecond strobes, the motion blur is so tiny -- it is thus no longer perceptible to human eyes, and it finally looks "CRT perfect zero motion blur" -- on an LCD. Fast turns in 3D FPS becomes CRT-perfect. Nintendo/MAME becomes perfect "Nintendo smooth" pans, with no ghosting, no blurring, no trailing artifacts. And you can put the PixPerAn chase text squares 1 pixel apart, and you can see the 1-pixel-gap between the two moving square clearly; just like on a CRT. That's how "perfect" the motion can be on a zero-motion-blur-modified LCD monitor. Even when you lower the refresh rate, e.g. for 80fps@80Hz, there is still less motion blur than a stock LCD monitor at 120fps@120Hz (many CRT monitor users already know 60fps@60Hz on a CRT still has less motion blur than 120fps@120Hz on a LCD), saving a lot of GPU horsepower while still having the "CRT silky smooth motion feel" on an LCD panel.
....The only way to equal the motion blur (0.5ms) without flashing the backlight (CRT-style flicker), doing it sample-and-hold, is by doing the theoretical equivalent of 2000fps@2000Hz (1000ms/0.5ms = 2000) which is not possible to do. That's almost 20 times less motion blur than 120fps@120Hz -- meaning, display-based motion blur is no longer perceptible to human eyes, and thus you get the "CRT perfect motion" feel.

...Why aren't manufacturers doing this yet???? Where can I buy???
Cost, cost, cost!!! It's insanely expensive to put 150 watts per square feet of LED in a computer monitor, as a super-charged backlight or edgelight. Fortunately, Asus is leading the way with the newer 3D Lightboost2 system and the VG248QE monitor (coming in a few months), even though it uses strobe lengths longer than CRT phosphor decay, it's a big step in motion blur elimination (especially if Asus permits the user to adjust the monitor to strobe during 2D mode, for motion blur reduction/elimination!).

....

Keep an eye on my development progress on my blog; since being essentially a super-turbocharged home-made 3D Lightboost hack addition to an existing monitor -- it's probably of interest to some of you AnandTech readers, and I'm crosslinking to AnandTech's blog articles on these topics; thus I'm introducing myself for the first time in these forums now....

(zero motion blur LCD -- as a user modification to an existing LCD monitor)

Thanks!
Mark Rejhon
BlurBusters Blog -- My Hobby Project to Eliminate Motion Blur on LCD Displays
www.BlurBusters.com
 
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Plimogz

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What an great project! Welcome to the Forums! I for one look forward to following up on your progress.

Reading through the steep power requirement and your mention of possible heatsinking/active cooling I couldn't help but hope to you'll be including in a low-brightness/low-performance/low-power/low-noise feature into your design. Judging by the depth and detail of your project outline, I'm guessing that it would be almost trivial for you to put such a setting in and it would be a real shame if it was left out.
 

Mark Rejhon

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Dec 13, 2012
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What an great project! Welcome to the Forums! I for one look forward to following up on your progress.

Reading through the steep power requirement and your mention of possible heatsinking/active cooling I couldn't help but hope to you'll be including in a low-brightness/low-performance/low-power/low-noise feature into your design. Judging by the depth and detail of your project outline, I'm guessing that it would be almost trivial for you to put such a setting in and it would be a real shame if it was left out.
Yes's that's important. The circuit is quite flexible - it's 100% Arduino software programmable, and can be programmed to variable length strobes, even run it as a simple 10KHz PWM (eye-friendly PWM) with continuously variable brightness.

Or even turbo-boost the monitor brightness to 250 watt continuous power (requires direct connection to a PC power supply as the 12 volt source!) for a few seconds, but it will overheat quickly. Best to keep average power consumption to roughly equal an average monitor, to keep heat under control... (250 watt 10% of the time is still 25 watt average. With appropriate capacitors, I'd only need not much more than a 25 watt power supply) I'm actually currently using a discarded Corsair 750W PC power supply as the power supply for my backlight tests, just to give me complete power flexibility for experiments. Even if I only end up using 25-50W averaged-out in the final design.

That said -- quite an insane amount of power in the strobes is necessary. Even 250 watt impulses at 0.5ms (of 120Hz refresh) is, on average, still slightly dimmer than 25 watt continuous for the full 8ms of a 120Hz refresh -- so we have to ask Scotty for more power in the backlight. (trekkie reference -- "more power, scotty, more power"). We need as much brightness as possible in short strobes. It's amazing how insanely bright CRT phoshpor glows, and we need to match that, or zero-motion-blur LCD is not achieved.

CRT's glow more than an order of magnitude brighter than current LED backlights for the brief period of the flashes (link)-- and that's the benchmark brightness needed for backlight flashing strobes to achieve a zero motion blur LCD. 150+ watts of LED per square feet, but lit only for ultra-brief periods. And it's only just about enough to be as bright as a normal monitor at a midpoint brightness setting. Even if averaged-out power consumption is only 15 watt per square feet, a small light amount of active cooling might still be needed. (especially if you use commercial LED ribbon rolls with built-in current limiting resistors; wastes 20% as heat. But it saves lots of time; eliminates having to do hundreds of soldering points for individual LED's).
 
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Ben90

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I can't imagine how much this will mess with your eyes. Looking at current lightboost monitors for a few hours and then trying to go to sleep is already hard enough. It like strobes your brain. Maybe I'm just getting old.
 

KingFatty

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Dec 29, 2010
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Hey wait a minute, are you protecting your work with patents etc.? I'd suggest you consider at least thinking about protecting your investments and gaining the possibility of licensing your technology etc.
 

kache

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Oh, you're the hardforum guy. I am happy to see your project has reached such an advanced point. Congratulations.
Can't wait to see how this ends.
 

Mark Rejhon

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Dec 13, 2012
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I can't imagine how much this will mess with your eyes. Looking at current lightboost monitors for a few hours and then trying to go to sleep is already hard enough. It like strobes your brain. Maybe I'm just getting old.
Understandably -- this project isn't for everyone.
People who are sensitive to CRT flicker (CRT's are strobed displays), will probably not like this project that much. However, people who really enjoyed the benefits of CRT videogaming, would be the most interested. Also, the strobing can be turned off, e.g. via menus.

Don't forget that the "3D" part also contributes to additional eyestrain.
3D is great for some stuff, but I am aiming to make this work in 2D too -- which is less eyestrain than 3D. So if you are able to tolerate CRT at 120Hz, you should be OK with a strobe backlight running well above flicker fusion threshold. And it's less GPU horsepower in 2D than 3D too (Less GPU power = easier to achieve the "perfect CRT silky smooth motion effect")
 
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Mark Rejhon

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Dec 13, 2012
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Hey wait a minute, are you protecting your work with patents etc.? I'd suggest you consider at least thinking about protecting your investments and gaining the possibility of licensing your technology etc.
At this time, I'm taking an open-source hobbyist approach to this. I have no plans to patent my variant of technology. Similiar mousetraps has already been done before and patented-to-the-hilt (see Existing Technology), but I'm taking an approach that is quite different. Patents are great for many things, but for this specific project, I'm enjoying a hobbyist approach. (I have other things to profit off, in other industries, anyway)

Open source electronics (Arduino), off-the-shelf parts, and lots of basic general science, some of which is more than 100 years old -- the stroboscopic effect, the zoetrope effect.
-- Most of us know that short flashes eliminates motion blur -- culiminating in famous photographs of a bullet going through an apple, frozen in mid-flight by a high speed strobe flash. A bullet with zero motion blur! The scientific principles behind "CRT strobe = zero motion blur" is related to the stroboscopic effect, and easily translated to backlight strobes on LCD. The shorter the strobe, the less motion blur -- it also applies to displays too, not just photographs. Photography buffs/nuts will understand the motion-blur-elimination benefits of short samples (fast shutters, fast flashes). The same science applies to strobed displays (CRT's) and to strobed backlights that flash a frame only once per refresh -- amazing how similar the science is, once understood well (even with the raster scanning where CRT's strobe only one part of the image at a time, rather than the whole image at a time, it still has the motion-blur elimination of the stroboscopic effect). Very basic science stuff, but most people don't understand the connection to display motion blur -- it takes a little bit of a leap to understand. Also I'm trying to keep away from the monitor's electronics as much as possible so that there are as few patentable things as possible, because this is a fully hobbyist project.

I encourage other hobbyists to do this project as well especially when I've got complete build instructions; as I build-out a full desktop-sized prototype (after finishing testing out all the individual components, small scale tests, and weak points, as I have been lately through my BlurBusters Blog), and publish more motion tests, etc. I'm not in a huge rush, and if there's a scientific setback (e.g. not enough lumens yet) -- I'd like to solve that (e.g. replacement more-expensive LED's, test edgelight vs backlight approach) -- and continue on. If someone beats me to the world's first hobbyist monitor hack for a motion-blur-elimination strobe backlight, I'm good with that -- if they can cite me for my initial research, even better.

I wholeheartedly encourage more monitor makers to do this (as an optional monitor setting), because I'm among some of the people who love LCD except is dismayed at forced motion blur by the LCD panel -- ever since CRT's became discontinued. Some of us will pay $ extra for an ultrapowerful backlight and a menu setting to enable a "zero motion blur" strobe mode (even in 2D, not just 3D). And pleased to discover there's now finally technical solutions to completely eliminate motion blur on LCD. In fact I'd be happy (As a consultant) to help out monitor manufacturers if they want to contact me for more information.

I also encourage people to contact LightBoost monitor makers to enable optional LightBoost operation in 2D mode (for its motion blur reduction benefit). Also petitioning parties (e.g. upcoming ASUS VG248QE) to allow a menu option to allow the strobed backlight to also operate in 2D mode too, not just 3D. It's just a simple firmware modification to add a optional menu option to make it PWM at 1 bright flash per refresh -- using the existing programmable PWM logic to do motion-blur-elimination strobes. Essentially, the equivalent of 144 Hz PWM az 144 Hz, for example). Obviously, you want to turn off low-frequency PWM when you're just doing Word/Excel, so this should be a setting that you can turn on/off in video games, for the motion blur reduction benefit. The sample-and-hold is beneficial when you're just relaxing doing many computer applications, but some do want motion blur elimination in video games.

Thanks!
Mark Rejhon
BlurBusters Blog -- My Hobby Project to Eliminate Motion Blur on LCD Displays
www.BlurBusters.com
 
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Mark Rejhon

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Dec 13, 2012
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To spice up this thread (no pictures = boring), here are some images of the ultra-bright LED ribbons I'm currently testing out for my homebrew strobed backlight.


...

...
These LED ribbons are very bright - allowing me over 20,000 lumens in the space of a 24" monitor. Possibly over 50,000 lumens when carefully overcurrented during short strobes. The main challenge is finding appropriate diffusion layers/optics/reflectors to focus this into a bright, solid, white rectangle behind a 24" panel. (That's my current research going on) LCD panels are rather severe light sponges, and absorb a lot of light, so very little of this light gets through an LCD panel. (My goal is to reach approximately 10x the brightness of a normal monitor backlight, but even that's difficult even with this ribbon! I may only be able to reach approximately 5x brightness strobes in my first prototype, for example due to inefficiencies. That, I might live with, and do better in my 2nd prototype.)

White LED's use phosphor, which has a phosphor decay effect, which might be a limiting factor. Fortunately, it isn't. I did LED phosphor persistence tests using a photodiode connected to an Arduino timing circuit (low-resolution oscillscope). After power is removed, the phosphor decays to less than 10% brightness after 0.1ms, and decays to less than 1% brightness after 0.2ms. These are short enough to surpass medium-persistence CRT monitors, many of which have phosphor decay closer to 1-2 milliseconds.

Thanks!
Mark Rejhon
BlurBusters Blog -- My Hobby Project to Eliminate Motion Blur on LCD Displays
www.BlurBusters.com
 
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kache

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Mark Rejhon

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You lose the 144hz, though (150 if overclocked). :(
I wonder if someone will manage to hack this to make it work with higher refresh rates.
For strobed displays (CRT or flashing backlights), increased refresh rate can have little effect on motion blur. Once the GPU is rendering individual frames for every single refresh (fps=Hz), and you're strobing only once per refresh, then the motion clarity on impulse-driven displays is directly proportional to the length of the flashes, not to its refresh rate. (A display with flashes of 1.0ms per refresh, has half the motion blur of flashes of 2.0ms per refresh) This is precisely why CRT at 60fps@60Hz has far clearer motion than traditional LCD at 120fps@120Hz.

In this case, the sole advantage of higher refresh rates is lower input lag and reduced flicker. You will get far less motion blur at 120Hz with strobing (CRT or flashing backlight that's flashing once per refresh -- like this LightBoost).

If you're playing solo (and don't need that ~0.5ms-to-1ms "shoot-first" advantage in online FPS competition), and you're not sensitive to 120Hz flicker, then why do you need 144Hz when 120Hz(strobed) looks many times better than 144Hz(non-strobed)
 
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BoFox

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May 10, 2008
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To spice up this thread (no pictures = boring), here are some images of the ultra-bright LED ribbons I'm currently testing out for my homebrew strobed backlight.


...

...
These LED ribbons are very bright - allowing me over 20,000 lumens in the space of a 24" monitor. Possibly over 50,000 lumens when carefully overcurrented during short strobes. The main challenge is finding appropriate diffusion layers/optics/reflectors to focus this into a bright, solid, white rectangle behind a 24" panel. (That's my current research going on) LCD panels are rather severe light sponges, and absorb a lot of light, so very little of this light gets through an LCD panel. (My goal is to reach approximately 10x the brightness of a normal monitor backlight, but even that's difficult even with this ribbon! I may only be able to reach approximately 5x brightness strobes in my first prototype, for example due to inefficiencies. That, I might live with, and do better in my 2nd prototype.)

White LED's use phosphor, which has a phosphor decay effect, which might be a limiting factor. Fortunately, it isn't. I did LED phosphor persistence tests using a photodiode connected to an Arduino timing circuit (low-resolution oscillscope). After power is removed, the phosphor decays to less than 10% brightness after 0.1ms, and decays to less than 1% brightness after 0.2ms. These are short enough to surpass medium-persistence CRT monitors, many of which have phosphor decay closer to 1-2 milliseconds.

Thanks!
Mark Rejhon
BlurBusters Blog -- My Hobby Project to Eliminate Motion Blur on LCD Displays
www.BlurBusters.com
Wow, awesome project!!

To me personally, I've seen phosphor "fade" times last much much longer than 1-2 milliseconds on many CRTs. I would go as far to say that they are more like 100-200 milliseconds to reach absolute blackness, from maximum brightness. I think that it all depends on how bright the CRT gets - if extremely bright, then it will have a glowing aftereffect against a black background (i.e., a mouse cursor leaving a ghost trail as it moves around across the black screen). I guess if the brightness (actually contrast control for CRT's) isn't too high, then the phosphors have no problem decaying to less than 1% brightness in 1-2 milliseconds. However, 1% brightness can still be quite a ghost in a dark background.
 

kache

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Nov 10, 2012
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For strobed displays (CRT or flashing backlights), increased refresh rate can have little effect on motion blur. Once the GPU is rendering individual frames for every single refresh (fps=Hz), and you're strobing only once per refresh, then the motion clarity on impulse-driven displays is directly proportional to the length of the flashes, not to its refresh rate. (A display with flashes of 1.0ms per refresh, has half the motion blur of flashes of 2.0ms per refresh) This is precisely why CRT at 60fps@60Hz has far clearer motion than traditional LCD at 120fps@120Hz.

In this case, the sole advantage of higher refresh rates is lower input lag and reduced flicker. You will get far less motion blur at 120Hz with strobing (CRT or flashing backlight that's flashing once per refresh -- like this LightBoost).

If you're playing solo (and don't need that ~0.5ms-to-1ms "shoot-first" advantage in online FPS competition), and you're not sensitive to 120Hz flicker, then why do you need 144Hz when 120Hz(strobed) looks many times better than 144Hz(non-strobed)
Because I paid for it.
 

Mark Rejhon

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Dec 13, 2012
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Wow, awesome project!!

To me personally, I've seen phosphor "fade" times last much much longer than 1-2 milliseconds on many CRTs. I would go as far to say that they are more like 100-200 milliseconds to reach absolute blackness, from maximum brightness. I think that it all depends on how bright the CRT gets - if extremely bright, then it will have a glowing aftereffect against a black background (i.e., a mouse cursor leaving a ghost trail as it moves around across the black screen). I guess if the brightness (actually contrast control for CRT's) isn't too high, then the phosphors have no problem decaying to less than 1% brightness in 1-2 milliseconds. However, 1% brightness can still be quite a ghost in a dark background.
It can easily be the case. Here, the Asus VG278H is easily better than CRT in this regard, when you force-enable the 3D Lightboost strobed backlight to operate during 2D mode:

qubit said:
Yes, I've finally found the holy grail of gaming in 2D mode on an LCD monitor: zero motion blur! It literally displays motion as good as a CRT and then some. I was so stoked when I first saw the effect today, that my jaw literally dropped and I played my game open mouthed, it was that awesome! This combined the crystal clarity of an LCD display with the motion sharpness and smoothness of a CRT, all at a fast 120Hz screen refresh rate. This is something I'd never seen before and looks truly amazing - better than even a CRT.
 
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snarfbot

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Jul 22, 2007
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if youre going to make a huge array of leds, how difficult would it be to implement local dimming? say you took the luminance value from a pixel directly in front of one of the leds, and reduced or increased the flashing interval relative to other portions you could end up with better contrast as well as no blur.

this is something i would be totally interested in, even at 60hz.