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Powered screwdriver for precision bits and electronic work?

fuzzybabybunny

fuzzybabybunny

Moderator<br>Digital & Video Cameras
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My main problem is that I really really really want a powered driver for precision bits like Phillips 000 for electronic work. And I really need the bits to be magnetic because tiny-ass screws are the easiest to lose.

Recommendations?

I can't find standard 1/4" bits that go that small.

Is there a standard for those small precision bits? Maybe 4mm? The 1/8" size for that General Tools electric driver I have in the OP below turns out to be proprietary for GT.

I'm trying to consolidate my tools. I hate having all these different handles laying around with all these different cases and incompatible bits.

I want to get this (all for general use):

Uses AA batteries, for small General Tools proprietary 1/8"-drive bits - how do I make these magnetic?

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...ic+screwdriver

Uses AA batteries, for standard 1/4"-drive bits.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-A...river+alkaline

I can just get this to make the 1/4" bits magnetic, right?

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2054-...s=magnetic+bit

And this for general but heavier work:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-B...ack+and+decker

I already have a dremel.
 
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The 1/4" hex bit is a common standard size. I have a precision set that is 9/64", not 1/8", hex so that may or may not be standard.

I understand buying the larger cordless drill but why the other electric drivers? They seem silly.
 
If buying a drill try to go with 3/4" chuck as it will be more versatile. I think 1/2" and 3/4" are the most common standards as far as what you'll see in hardware stores. Bits can vary a lot, I'm not sure if there are actual set standards.

As for magnetizing bits I've only done this with screw drivers but imagine it works with bits too, wrap as many turns of copper wire as you can around a piece of plastic pipe, or even a pen, or something like that. Put the bit inside and apply 12v or so from a decent size PSU (computer one will do). Leave it for maybe 30 seconds or so. Anything that's inside will now be magnetized practically permanently, but if it comes in contact with a strong magnet it will break the magnetism so it's not permanent in the same sense as a permanent magnet. I have this contraption I built for this, it cools the coil and I can do a whole screw driver set in one go without worrying about overheating. I need to improve it so the PSU is part of the setup though. It's still a pain to take it out and set it up. Then again it's not something I do very often.
 
Handheld power drills usually have 3/8" or 1/2" chucks. I've never seen one with a 3/4" chuck. I'm not even sure if chucks on drill presses ever get to 3/4". Usually by time you're chucking up a 3/4" bit its got a stepped down shank.
 
zanemoseley said:
Handheld power drills usually have 3/8" or 1/2" chucks. I've never seen one with a 3/4" chuck. I'm not even sure if chucks on drill presses ever get to 3/4". Usually by time you're chucking up a 3/4" bit its got a stepped down shank.
Click to expand...

Milwaukee sells a big low-speed drill with a 3/4" chuck. You can thread a long-ass handle in to it so two people can hold on to the thing.
 
Humpy said:
Milwaukee sells a big low-speed drill with a 3/4" chuck. You can thread a long-ass handle in to it so two people can hold on to the thing.
Click to expand...

For drilling holes in what? I'm a building contractor and I've never once needed a drill with a 3/4" chuck. I don't think I've ever even seen one. I have two different 1/2" drills, either one will break your arm if you're not careful. I can't imagine a situation where I would need a two man drill.
 
I have seen hex shanks for screwdriver bits in 3/16", 1/4" and 5/16".

Greenman, I've rented mag drills with 3/4" chucks before. We use them occasionally for field drilling structural frames for attachment to other things (or vise versa). Heck, we even sometimes use them for field drilling anything that needs a bit that doesn't fit in a 1/2" chuck.
 
Your generic magnetic bit holder is a 1/4" hex mandrel stuck into a sleeve with a 1/4" hex hole on the other side for bits. I go through generic bit sets like candy, and have hardly ever seen anything else. I know I have at least one Craftsman bit holder that is different, but that's just because Craftsman is shit. They want to con people into buying some dumb proprietary bits.

The 1/4" thing is consistent because that's the size for quick-disconnect stuff. See the little indention at the bottom of a bit holder and/or a long standalone bit? That's for retention in a QD chuck. The kind with the little slip collar.
 
Greenman said:
For drilling holes in what? I'm a building contractor and I've never once needed a drill with a 3/4" chuck. I don't think I've ever even seen one. I have two different 1/2" drills, either one will break your arm if you're not careful. I can't imagine a situation where I would need a two man drill.
Click to expand...

I've used a drill like it only once to put holes into the bottom of a steel beam that was already in place to hang some rolling doors off of. We didn't have a magnetic drill and only had about 25 holes to do. The boss handed us this big drill to drill the holes and left to go get a male hooker or whatever it was he did when he wasn't on site.

We had three people on the drill. One holding each handle and another prying up on the D-handle with a 2x4 levered from the scaffolding. Our biggest concern was keeping away from the shower of hot shavings so the long handles were nice.
 
Greenman said:
For drilling holes in what? I'm a building contractor and I've never once needed a drill with a 3/4" chuck. I don't think I've ever even seen one. I have two different 1/2" drills, either one will break your arm if you're not careful. I can't imagine a situation where I would need a two man drill.
Click to expand...

I had a 3/4" drill, that thing was a monster for torque. And, while standing on a ladder, a spade bit got stopped - drill didn't care, it kept going. And, when it spun around in my hand, the lock-on button got pushed by the side of my hand. I was incredibly lucky to escape serious injuries - and I won't tie extension cords together (to keep them from coming unplugged) ever again. I've always wondered what happened to it; it just disappeared one day. I presume one of my kids borrowed it & left it at a friend's house.
 
My main problem is that I really really really want a powered driver for precision bits like Phillips 000 for electronic work. And I really need the bits to be magnetic because tiny-ass screws are the easiest to lose.

I can't find standard 1/4" bits that go that small.

Is there a standard for those small precision bits? Maybe 4mm? The 1/8" size for that General Tools electric driver I have in the OP turns out to be proprietary for GT.
 
fuzzybabybunny said:
My main problem is that I really really really want a powered driver for precision bits like Phillips 000 for electronic work. And I really need the bits to be magnetic because tiny-ass screws are the easiest to lose.

I can't find standard 1/4" bits that go that small.

Is there a standard for those small precision bits? Maybe 4mm? The 1/8" size for that General Tools electric driver I have in the OP turns out to be proprietary for GT.
Click to expand...

You can get them down to 2.5mm on Amazon. I'm waiting for some to come in.

I have a 1/4" hex shank driver that I use every day at work. I use a #1 or #2 phillips most days but some things I need even smaller for.

And OP if you want the bits to be magnetic, just buy a magnetic screw tray and leave the bits in them when not in use. Its what I do:

20131015_134940.jpg


link to the bits I'm waiting on:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AUBFVQM/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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rudeguy said:
You can get them down to 2.5mm on Amazon. I'm waiting for some to come in.

I have a 1/4" hex shank driver that I use every day at work. I use a #1 or #2 phillips most days but some things I need even smaller for.

And OP if you want the bits to be magnetic, just buy a magnetic screw tray and leave the bits in them when not in use. Its what I do:

20131015_134940.jpg


link to the bits I'm waiting on:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Click to expand...

Man, I give up.

I want a 1/4" Hex PH000 that can also be magnetized or already come magnetized. Actually, I want a *collection* of assorted 1/4" bits for small electronic work. 1/4" is critical since then I can attach the bits freely to any kind of driver and also magnetic bit holders.

This is proving to be impossible to find since the assorted collections all have stupid non-standard hex sizes. Most of the collections don't even list what size hex they use.

So what can I do?

I'm considering getting an adjustable 1/4" chuck so that I can use whatever non-standard hex sized bits I can find on motorized handles:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2ZSTDEXO9VTZF

But oh wait, how do I get the bits magnetized then? The magnetic trays don't have any lids so it's not a good place to actually store bits. And there are no magnetized chucks.
 
fuzzybabybunny said:
Man, I give up.

I want a 1/4" Hex PH000 that can also be magnetized or already come magnetized. Actually, I want a *collection* of assorted 1/4" bits for small electronic work. 1/4" is critical since then I can attach the bits freely to any kind of driver and also magnetic bit holders.

This is proving to be impossible to find since the assorted collections all have stupid non-standard hex sizes. Most of the collections don't even list what size hex they use.

So what can I do?

I'm considering getting an adjustable 1/4" chuck so that I can use whatever non-standard hex sized bits I can find on motorized handles:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2ZSTDEXO9VTZF

But oh wait, how do I get the bits magnetized then? The magnetic trays don't have any lids so it's not a good place to actually store bits. And there are no magnetized chucks.
Click to expand...
What you need is a Magnetizer Demagnetizer: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...20Demagnetizer

Magnetic trays do not have lids, because the bits and screws stuck to it, hence you do not need lid/s.

Why anyone on earth would anyone want a magnetized chuck, so that all the shavings stick to the drill bit when you are drilling ferrous metal?

Personally I do not think anyone would want to use power tool on precision screws because the likely hood of over torque or striping is high on such small treads, and slots. Unless you are working in a manufacturing plant where the torque settings are predetermined, and preset.

Please use your commonsense.
 
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I got this cheap powered screwdriver once, but only because the pressed wood desk I got expected me to hand-screw the screws in, with barely any pre-drilled holes.

Yea, I value my wrists more than that. So I spent 20 bucks.
 
fuzzybabybunny said:
Man, I give up.

I want a 1/4" Hex PH000 that can also be magnetized or already come magnetized. Actually, I want a *collection* of assorted 1/4" bits for small electronic work. 1/4" is critical since then I can attach the bits freely to any kind of driver and also magnetic bit holders.

This is proving to be impossible to find since the assorted collections all have stupid non-standard hex sizes. Most of the collections don't even list what size hex they use.

So what can I do?

I'm considering getting an adjustable 1/4" chuck so that I can use whatever non-standard hex sized bits I can find on motorized handles:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2ZSTDEXO9VTZF

But oh wait, how do I get the bits magnetized then? The magnetic trays don't have any lids so it's not a good place to actually store bits. And there are no magnetized chucks.
Click to expand...

How delicate are the screws?

Or can you give me a brief idea of what kind of equipment you work on?

I was in your same boat not that long ago. I settled on a Craftsmsn 12 volt impact driver. It has a 1/4" non adjustable shank. It's low enough torque that I don't strip screws.

And that tray that I linked to is stuck to the underside of the lid of my toolbox. I close the lid and nothing falls out.

I also have 3 sets of precision hand drivers for delicate work. I don't trust electric for that stuff.

PM if you want.
 
That's why I said if you're not careful. 😉 I'm sure if you do lot of precision work you get better at it.

Bits are also not how they used to be, they're made so cheap now. I've had standard drill bits actually snap in two while drilling into knotty wood. It's like if they're made out of ceramic or something, and not metal.
 
Red Squirrel said:
That's why I said if you're not careful. 😉 I'm sure if you do lot of precision work you get better at it.

Bits are also not how they used to be, they're made so cheap now. I've had standard drill bits actually snap in two while drilling into knotty wood. It's like if they're made out of ceramic or something, and not metal.
Click to expand...

Don't get me started. I snapped 2 bits on the first use. They were nice bits too!

I planned on that though and bought a 10 pack 🙂
 
Red Squirrel said:
That's why I said if you're not careful. 😉 I'm sure if you do lot of precision work you get better at it.

Bits are also not how they used to be, they're made so cheap now. I've had standard drill bits actually snap in two while drilling into knotty wood. It's like if they're made out of ceramic or something, and not metal.
Click to expand...
Bits will snap if it is not perpendicular to the surface that you trying to drill, or your hand shakes, or you have a wobbled chuck.

Perhaps a torque & speed setting may need to be adjust.
 
rudeguy said:
How delicate are the screws?

Or can you give me a brief idea of what kind of equipment you work on?

I was in your same boat not that long ago. I settled on a Craftsmsn 12 volt impact driver. It has a 1/4" non adjustable shank. It's low enough torque that I don't strip screws.

And that tray that I linked to is stuck to the underside of the lid of my toolbox. I close the lid and nothing falls out.

I also have 3 sets of precision hand drivers for delicate work. I don't trust electric for that stuff.

PM if you want.
Click to expand...
window-1-131.jpg

HP000 screws and screwdriver.
 
iGas said:
What you need is a Magnetizer Demagnetizer: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...20Demagnetizer

Magnetic trays do not have lids, because the bits and screws stuck to it, hence you do not need lid/s.

Why anyone on earth would anyone want a magnetized chuck, so that all the shavings stick to the drill bit when you are drilling ferrous metal?

Personally I do not think anyone would want to use power tool on precision screws because the likely hood of over torque or striping is high on such small treads, and slots. Unless you are working in a manufacturing plant where the torque settings are predetermined, and preset.

Please use your commonsense.
Click to expand...

won't a magnet from any old harddrive does the same thing as the Magnetizer Demagnetizer?
 
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