Poll: Synthetic or Conventional oil?
- Thread starter Sacotool
- Start date
conventiol that synthetic stuff is just to expensive for me. I might switch to synthetic in my beater and just not change it for 15k-20k mile and only change the filter every 5k or so but I'am too afraid to do that to my good car.
Sac...if you are going to use syn. then at least get your money's worth by not changing oil so frequently. I think that syn. is superior to natural but what I don't like is the fact that all the pollutants are in your oil for such a long time if you go by the time-period suggested by manufacturers. If it was cheaper, I would use synthetic and change at about 5000 miles.
My Dad has been selling the synthetic stuff for awhile, and it does work great for all cars. I don't use it in mine anymore (not worth it in an 11 year old car, and I don't change my own oil anymore either), but we used to change it every 5000 miles. You will also typically see a 2-3 mpg increase in gas mileage. My old VW Fox went from 31 mpg highway to 34 mpg. It's also nice in a car that burns oil because it doesn't burn as readily, and it coats the engine better so if you forget to add some in awhile, you're still protected to a greater degree than regular.
When I finally purchase a new vehicle, I'll probably start using it again.
When I finally purchase a new vehicle, I'll probably start using it again.
Time is money. I use synthetic and change it and filter once a year for 2 cars. Equates to 10-12k miles. Do it myself. It's a hassle but it forces me to check all fluids and look the rest of the car over real good. I lub suspension at the same time.
Don't blindly trust others to properly lub the suspension, u-joints, brearings, etc.
Don't blindly trust others to properly lub the suspension, u-joints, brearings, etc.
thebestMAX
Diamond Member
- Sep 14, 2000
- 7,501
- 133
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SAC
After reading numerous reports, I use a synthetic blend such as Valvoline Dura-blend and change oil 3 months or 3000 miles. About 1/2 the price of full synthetic and all the benefits. Still think time is more important than miles.
After reading numerous reports, I use a synthetic blend such as Valvoline Dura-blend and change oil 3 months or 3000 miles. About 1/2 the price of full synthetic and all the benefits. Still think time is more important than miles.
<< About 1/2 the price and all the benifits... >>
Hey I wouldn't be so sure about that, the conventional blends are usually at most about 10% synthetic and mostly conventional. You're just paying a premium for that small amount. You'll get such a higher concentratation and more benifits for the same price is you say buy 2 bottles of synthetic and 3 bottles of conventional (or whatever your car takes.)
Personally my turbo cars get Mobil 1 oil and filter (one of the best filters out there as well as the oil) every 4,000 miles. The Jeep that drinks oil though gets what evers cheap at walmart... It will soon be needing gear lube in the crank case the way its using oil
apoppin
Lifer
I mix my own - 1 quart synthetic/3 quarts regular (same brand/weight). I still change it every 3K miles.
From what I heard, pure synthetic is better for the metal parts but not as good for the seals.
From what I heard, pure synthetic is better for the metal parts but not as good for the seals.
Ok I used to work for Conoco Oil and know a little bit about oil.. Most oils are graded by the amount of Sulfur they contain. Heavy Sulfur = cheaper oil. Over time the smaller molecules of oil burn away and the sulfur tends to turn to a more acidic state.
Synthetic oils all the molecules are the same size and the sulfur is not in the oil. So if you can keep the oil clean it could last forever in theory.
Synthetic oils all the molecules are the same size and the sulfur is not in the oil. So if you can keep the oil clean it could last forever in theory.
Mobil 1 with a Ford Motorcraft filter every 7000 miles. No problems.
I've heard people sending in their Mobil 1 to an oil lab to get it checked out after about 15k and the lab says that the oil looks just dandy. No signs of engine wear, no signs of break down in the oil.
Kinda expensive at $5/quart, but it's cheaper than getting a new engine.
I've heard people sending in their Mobil 1 to an oil lab to get it checked out after about 15k and the lab says that the oil looks just dandy. No signs of engine wear, no signs of break down in the oil.
Kinda expensive at $5/quart, but it's cheaper than getting a new engine.
Castrol/Pennzoil every 3k, with a Fram dilter w/ teflon additive.
Engine runs l33t with that filter!
Engine runs l33t with that filter!
Yikes Viperoni you're beating on your engine! If you have teflon in your engine thats a very bad thing. It a solid particle. Its the same as tossing a handful of sand into the crankcase! Dupont actually sued to get their trademarked name off the oil additive that was advertising it! Oil additivies in general are very bad, but teflon is horrible!
Also Fram oil filters are arguably some of the worst out there.
Oil Filter Study Read about those frams and I'll bet you'll be picking something different up next time!
Also Fram oil filters are arguably some of the worst out there.
Oil Filter Study Read about those frams and I'll bet you'll be picking something different up next time!
Synthetic motor oil has been uses on aircraft engines since the day of yore, because it doesn?t jell up like regular fossil base oil at extreamly cold temp.
Studies from all the major oil companies have conclude that both synthetic & regular oil doesn?t offer any more protection than the other except that synthetic oil last longer, therefore oil change is suggested to be 5000mi for synthetic vs. fossil oil 3000mi.
Both oil have its merits, but personally I?m too cheap to paid the high price when my car don?t need to operate at ?20~40C.
And, I feel that changing oil every 3000mi is much better than 5000mi, because the coke & sulfur are emptied more often than let it eat away the engine metal for an extra 2000mi.
Ps. Oil manufactures also claimed that mixing fossil & synthectic oil is not good for your engine, because the oils separate (decant) from each other when not in use, and its also create higher sulfur out put, unless they are an engineer highbred.
Studies from all the major oil companies have conclude that both synthetic & regular oil doesn?t offer any more protection than the other except that synthetic oil last longer, therefore oil change is suggested to be 5000mi for synthetic vs. fossil oil 3000mi.
Both oil have its merits, but personally I?m too cheap to paid the high price when my car don?t need to operate at ?20~40C.
And, I feel that changing oil every 3000mi is much better than 5000mi, because the coke & sulfur are emptied more often than let it eat away the engine metal for an extra 2000mi.
Ps. Oil manufactures also claimed that mixing fossil & synthectic oil is not good for your engine, because the oils separate (decant) from each other when not in use, and its also create higher sulfur out put, unless they are an engineer highbred.
Use Wal-Mart full synthetic. It's about a buck a quart cheaper the the namebrands. It only comes in 10w30, but a full synthetic really can't be measured by conventional means. It will go 7500 miles with no problem Don't switch to synthetic if your car has more than 50,000 miles on it or oil usage could be a problem.
Also, do not immediately change to a synthetic on a new car! It needs 'broken in' and because of a synthetic's superior lubricating qualities it could prevent this a lead to permanent damage in the long run.
Also, do not immediately change to a synthetic on a new car! It needs 'broken in' and because of a synthetic's superior lubricating qualities it could prevent this a lead to permanent damage in the long run.
Tominator, that's really not true about not switching immeaditely. It is perfectly fine to switch at the first oil change that the car gets. New engines are built to much better manufacturing standards than the engines of say 20 years ago.
If there is something wrong with putting synthetic in from the getgo, then maybe you should tell Chevy and Porsche that because the Vette and all Porsches come factory filled with Mobil 1.
If there is something wrong with putting synthetic in from the getgo, then maybe you should tell Chevy and Porsche that because the Vette and all Porsches come factory filled with Mobil 1.
See lowtech I always have heard it was a better lubricant too. Let me use tominator as an example. You used to be told never to use synthetic oil on an engine as it was being broken in or the rings wouldnt have enough wear against the cylinder walls for them to seat. One could presume this is form superior lubricating qualities. Modern engines have tighter tolerances though and its not much a problem any more. I think you've got old info though as the "don't mix conventional and synth" no longer apply. There is no sulfur in synthetic oil btw, just the dino juice.
The main reasons I use synthetic are:
1.) I feel like its a better lubricant, if for nothing else its pruity
2.)in the winter (i'd say it get about 0 F here sometimes) it will "flow" better than a similar weight conventional oil
3.) I dont have to worry about it coking up in my Turbo's oil lines when I shut it down hot like I do conventional!
The main reasons I use synthetic are:
1.) I feel like its a better lubricant, if for nothing else its pruity
2.)in the winter (i'd say it get about 0 F here sometimes) it will "flow" better than a similar weight conventional oil
3.) I dont have to worry about it coking up in my Turbo's oil lines when I shut it down hot like I do conventional!
But man the engine feels like it has more power after the stuff...very very odd indeed.
Honestly, it feels like 5 extra hp!
Honestly, it feels like 5 extra hp!
I have used synthetic in my truck since I got it. I primarily use Mobil1. But, all the damn stores in my area were out of it so I settled for Castrol Syntec. I use Mobil1, Motorcract, or PureONE filters. They are pretty much the best out there. I change it every 5K miles or so.
I also have Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in my transfer case and power steering. Mercon V synthetic fills my transmission. Front axle has Mobil 1 gear lube, but the rear has conventional due to the incompatibility of synthetic fluids with the Auburn positraction unit.
I also have Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in my transfer case and power steering. Mercon V synthetic fills my transmission. Front axle has Mobil 1 gear lube, but the rear has conventional due to the incompatibility of synthetic fluids with the Auburn positraction unit.
Synthetic Mobil-1 is the ONLY oil that I will ever use EVER again. I truly workship this stuff, and while I don't want to sound completely maniacal, for my engine (Mazda KL-03 in a Ford PGT)it's the only thing that will keep the HLA (Hydraulic Lash Adjusters) silent. I change it and the filter religously every 3-4k miles, and the engine is still smooth and silent at 64k miles. The only time that I had it running conventional oil (after break-in)there seemed to be a loss in power and a less free-revving sensation.
While there are many arguments for going with the fully synthetic Mobil-1, including lower sulfer content, less build-ups, cleaner engines, and smoother running, there is the added cost. I don't mind the cost as long as my car keeps running happily along, and the psychological benefit of knowing that synthetic in there is admittedly significant for me. The only warning is that 5w30 is as low a weight as you might want to go, as the few times I went to 0w30 in the winter, oil started seeping past the valve cover gaskets.
While there are many arguments for going with the fully synthetic Mobil-1, including lower sulfer content, less build-ups, cleaner engines, and smoother running, there is the added cost. I don't mind the cost as long as my car keeps running happily along, and the psychological benefit of knowing that synthetic in there is admittedly significant for me. The only warning is that 5w30 is as low a weight as you might want to go, as the few times I went to 0w30 in the winter, oil started seeping past the valve cover gaskets.
Synthetic oil is a waste of money unless your purpose of using it is to go long periods (like 10k miles or more) without oil changes. Yes it is slicker and yes it is more resistant to contaminants and combustion by-products than regular oil, but it is not worth the cost, unless...again, you're planning on long periods between oil changes.
Regular oil is just so cheap that if you simply change it every 3000 miles like you're supposed to, you'll never have an oil related problem. Nobody ever has oil related problems anyway, unless it's caused by either not having enough in the engine or not changing it frequently enough.
You can realistically go 5-6k miles between oil changes on regular oil and never have a problem. Take any 100,000 mile engine apart that has had regular oil changes, either at 3k or 5k miles and both will be clean inside....no difference. This much has been proven over and over in testing.
Now if I had a Vette or some other exotic kind of car, I'd probably use some Mobil 1 just to be on the safe side; since it's such an expensive car, who cares how much the oil costs.
However, for your average Chevy, Ford, Honda, Toyota, etc, synthetic is a total waste of money.
PS: go ahead and use synthetic and go 7-10k miles between oil changes, and if you do happen to have an internal engine problem during the warranty period, wait and see what happens when the service department asks for your oil change records.
Regular oil is just so cheap that if you simply change it every 3000 miles like you're supposed to, you'll never have an oil related problem. Nobody ever has oil related problems anyway, unless it's caused by either not having enough in the engine or not changing it frequently enough.
You can realistically go 5-6k miles between oil changes on regular oil and never have a problem. Take any 100,000 mile engine apart that has had regular oil changes, either at 3k or 5k miles and both will be clean inside....no difference. This much has been proven over and over in testing.
Now if I had a Vette or some other exotic kind of car, I'd probably use some Mobil 1 just to be on the safe side; since it's such an expensive car, who cares how much the oil costs.
However, for your average Chevy, Ford, Honda, Toyota, etc, synthetic is a total waste of money.
PS: go ahead and use synthetic and go 7-10k miles between oil changes, and if you do happen to have an internal engine problem during the warranty period, wait and see what happens when the service department asks for your oil change records.
Pacfanweb, I'd venture to flat out say you're wrong man. You can say its a better lube and but it won't be signigant in the long wrong, etc all you want but I can flat out promise you its better for my car. If I take conventional oil in my car go out and drive at WOT then just turn off the engine killing hte oil pump my oil is going to sit in the oil feed lines to the turbo and the sulfur is going to cause it to coke up. Everytime this happens my oil lines become a little more restricted, eventually the turbo becomes starved of oil. Synthetic oil doesnt coke like conventional does so I dont have this problem. Think for the average turbo car owner that replacing a turbo is gonna be about $1000 or more in parts and a heck of a lot of labor. Try to tell me its not worth an extra $10 an oil change to not only save my money but also downtime without my car!
You can't make up for how easily synthetic oil pours in chilly weather compared to coventional oil with more frequent changes either. Lets not forget the advantages that come at other times. Any offroaders here who know why its super good to run synthetic gear lube in your pumpkins? When water and conventional oil combine, say during a water crossing if you happen to have a leaky seal you wind up with an emulsion that doesnt lubricate and that just lets your parts grind to death. With synthetic oil the water just sinks to the bottom of the diff, and you're much less likely to ruin your axle, and its easier to clear the water out and replace it with more lube in a pinch. Anyway I could keep going on about why I consider synthetic great for all but oil burning cars but I'll bet you're all sick of hearing me ramble
You can't make up for how easily synthetic oil pours in chilly weather compared to coventional oil with more frequent changes either. Lets not forget the advantages that come at other times. Any offroaders here who know why its super good to run synthetic gear lube in your pumpkins? When water and conventional oil combine, say during a water crossing if you happen to have a leaky seal you wind up with an emulsion that doesnt lubricate and that just lets your parts grind to death. With synthetic oil the water just sinks to the bottom of the diff, and you're much less likely to ruin your axle, and its easier to clear the water out and replace it with more lube in a pinch. Anyway I could keep going on about why I consider synthetic great for all but oil burning cars but I'll bet you're all sick of hearing me ramble
I use conventional Quaker State in my 10 yr old car. Been working great since day one
Cheers,
Aquaman
Cheers,
Aquaman
Soybomb
You have convinced me to try out synthetic oil on my next new car with your claims.
Like some of the members here has sugested, and I have heard that some newer sport car engine come stock with synthetic oil which mean it works on newer engine.
I knew that water & fossil base oil make a poor foamy/jell lubicant, but didn't know that synthetic oil doesn't bind with water.
Glad to hear that lowtech, come back in a few motnhs and tell us what you think. One of my cars that I bought at 60k miles I switched over to mobil 1 and the first change came out pretty nasty looking. The second as still kinda gunky. I thought teh third was looking really good, but by the 4th oil change I'm now to the point to where I drain out of my engine still looks pretty honey colored!
<<. You can say its a better lube and but it won't be signigant in the long wrong, etc all you want but I can flat out promise you its better for my car>>
OK, maybe for YOUR car. I'm talking in general. Besides, how many turbo cars are being made today anyway? Not many in comparison to all others.
<<. If I take conventional oil in my car go out and drive at WOT then just turn off the engine killing hte oil pump my oil is going to sit in the oil feed lines to the turbo and the sulfur is going to cause it to coke up. >>
And you really do this? Does anyone? Besides, I hate to break it to you, but there are millions of turbo diesels that go hundreds of thousands of miles without turbo failure and nearly all of them use conventional oil. There are plenty of turbo gas engines that have well over 100k miles using conventional oil. Your average car isn't going to last much over 125k miles anyway, and it takes that long or more for the synthetic oil to make a difference in wear.
<<Synthetic oil doesnt coke like conventional does so I dont have this problem. >>
Conventional oil doesn't really have that much of a problem gumming up anymore, not with all the specs. it has to meet now.
<<Think for the average turbo car owner that replacing a turbo is gonna be about $1000 or more in parts and a heck of a lot of labor. Try to tell me its not worth an extra $10 an oil change to not only save my money but also downtime without my car! >>
Again, yes, for YOUR car maybe. I recall saying if I had an expensive car like a Vette or something I'd use synthetic also, and I suppose that would apply to any sporty, turbo-type cars also. My position that synthetic is a waste of money was meant mainly for your average car, such as an Explorer, Accord, etc....and I stand firmly behind that statement. If you change your oil every 3k miles like you're supposed to, you will never, repeat, NEVER have an oil related failure.
Also, in reference particularly to American built cars nowadays, don't waste your money(on synth. oil) They aren't going to last 2-300k miles anyway no matter what oil you put in them. I hate to say this, but for the most part it's true. I know everyone probably knows someone with a 1995 Ford or Chevy with 200k miles, but you don't see very many.
<<You can't make up for how easily synthetic oil pours in chilly weather compared to coventional oil with more frequent changes either>>
Yeah right, in 40 degrees below zero weather. The very few people who actually drive in conditions like that all have their engine block heaters plugged in all night anyway, so low temp viscosity is irrelevant to them.
<<Any offroaders here who know why its super good to run synthetic gear lube in your pumpkins? When water and conventional oil combine, say during a water crossing if you happen to have a leaky seal you wind up with an emulsion that doesnt lubricate and that just lets your parts grind to death. With synthetic oil the water just sinks to the bottom of the diff, >>
Well, I'll agree somewhat with synthetic oil in differentials. You don't have to change those fluids except every 100k miles or so, so the cost doesn't really matter.
The water doesn't just sink to the bottom of the diff, though. That's impossible, since the ring gear stirs everything up. The water won't contaminate the synth. oil as badly. That being said, I've owned 5 Jeeps, 3 Broncos, and several 4x4 trucks, and in the quite extensive 4 wheeling I've done,(mostly in mud and water) I've never seen anyone get water in a diff. or any other drivetrain component. Actually, the most common thing I've seen happen is people getting water sucked into the engine with varying amounts of damage occurring, which no oil can help with
OK, maybe for YOUR car. I'm talking in general. Besides, how many turbo cars are being made today anyway? Not many in comparison to all others.
<<. If I take conventional oil in my car go out and drive at WOT then just turn off the engine killing hte oil pump my oil is going to sit in the oil feed lines to the turbo and the sulfur is going to cause it to coke up. >>
And you really do this? Does anyone? Besides, I hate to break it to you, but there are millions of turbo diesels that go hundreds of thousands of miles without turbo failure and nearly all of them use conventional oil. There are plenty of turbo gas engines that have well over 100k miles using conventional oil. Your average car isn't going to last much over 125k miles anyway, and it takes that long or more for the synthetic oil to make a difference in wear.
<<Synthetic oil doesnt coke like conventional does so I dont have this problem. >>
Conventional oil doesn't really have that much of a problem gumming up anymore, not with all the specs. it has to meet now.
<<Think for the average turbo car owner that replacing a turbo is gonna be about $1000 or more in parts and a heck of a lot of labor. Try to tell me its not worth an extra $10 an oil change to not only save my money but also downtime without my car! >>
Again, yes, for YOUR car maybe. I recall saying if I had an expensive car like a Vette or something I'd use synthetic also, and I suppose that would apply to any sporty, turbo-type cars also. My position that synthetic is a waste of money was meant mainly for your average car, such as an Explorer, Accord, etc....and I stand firmly behind that statement. If you change your oil every 3k miles like you're supposed to, you will never, repeat, NEVER have an oil related failure.
Also, in reference particularly to American built cars nowadays, don't waste your money(on synth. oil) They aren't going to last 2-300k miles anyway no matter what oil you put in them. I hate to say this, but for the most part it's true. I know everyone probably knows someone with a 1995 Ford or Chevy with 200k miles, but you don't see very many.
<<You can't make up for how easily synthetic oil pours in chilly weather compared to coventional oil with more frequent changes either>>
Yeah right, in 40 degrees below zero weather. The very few people who actually drive in conditions like that all have their engine block heaters plugged in all night anyway, so low temp viscosity is irrelevant to them.
<<Any offroaders here who know why its super good to run synthetic gear lube in your pumpkins? When water and conventional oil combine, say during a water crossing if you happen to have a leaky seal you wind up with an emulsion that doesnt lubricate and that just lets your parts grind to death. With synthetic oil the water just sinks to the bottom of the diff, >>
Well, I'll agree somewhat with synthetic oil in differentials. You don't have to change those fluids except every 100k miles or so, so the cost doesn't really matter.
The water doesn't just sink to the bottom of the diff, though. That's impossible, since the ring gear stirs everything up. The water won't contaminate the synth. oil as badly. That being said, I've owned 5 Jeeps, 3 Broncos, and several 4x4 trucks, and in the quite extensive 4 wheeling I've done,(mostly in mud and water) I've never seen anyone get water in a diff. or any other drivetrain component. Actually, the most common thing I've seen happen is people getting water sucked into the engine with varying amounts of damage occurring, which no oil can help with
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