Plumbing question

[FP]

We had a new sink put in about 3 weeks ago and the plumber said the previous install was shoddy so he reinstalled all of the pipes, etc.

Everything is working fine (no leaks) but now our faucet stops itself unless it is on full blast. The handle basically just falls closed unless the pressure is high enough. The faucet is one of those removable ones (see example) and I asked the plumber if it is supposed to be that way and he said yes. He said the lack of pressure is because there is more tube (due to the removable faucet head). I know he is giving be a BS answer so I am coming to ATOT for my answer.

What do I need to do to get the faucet to stay on when it isn't full blast? The water pressure in the house is already way too high (The last plumber said it was around 140psi) so that isn't the problem. Is this just a problem with faucets that have handles that open/close vertically?

Example

 

[dartworth]

Just a silly question...are the shut off valves under the sink all the way open?

 

[John]

Get a different faucet, and do it yourself this time. A novice can change one out in about 30 min. with a simple adjustable wrench.

 

[FP]

Yep, both the hot and the cold are 1/2 turn away from fully open.

One thing I forgot to note is that our cold water valve has a splitter valve that runs some cold water to the fridge for the ice maker and in-door water. This is a brand new fridge (we bought the house a month ago).

Does anyone have a kitchen faucet like the one in my first post that stays on at all levels?

 

[FP]

Originally posted by: John
Get a different faucet, and do it yourself this time. A novice can change one out in about 30 min. with a simple adjustable wrench.

The faucet is integrated into the sink. You can't change it out without replacing the entire sink. I would have no problem doing it myself but the sink is brand new and it was pricey for a sink.

Just curious if it is normal or not for these types of sinks. I have never had one with the removable faucet head before.

 

[RCN]

I would assume the faucet is fvcked up. The amount of tube really isn't going to make a difference.

Mine is like the one in the pic.


Oh and you really should install a regulator after the meter. Your pressure should not be above 60psi....

 

[RCN]

Originally posted by: binister

Originally posted by: John
Get a different faucet, and do it yourself this time. A novice can change one out in about 30 min. with a simple adjustable wrench.

The faucet is integrated into the sink.

Huh?

 

[Muadib]

Originally posted by: binister

Originally posted by: John
Get a different faucet, and do it yourself this time. A novice can change one out in about 30 min. with a simple adjustable wrench.

The faucet is integrated into the sink. You can't change it out without replacing the entire sink. I would have no problem doing it myself but the sink is brand new and it was pricey for a sink.

Just curious if it is normal or not for these types of sinks. I have never had one with the removable faucet head before.

I highly doubt that it is integrated into the sink. Did you watch the install?

To answer your question, the faucet should stay on with no problem. I installed one like it in my kitchen just before I sold my house, and it sounds like your plumber didn't tighten the handle enough. As I recall, you had to use an torx wrench to tighten it.

 

[John]

Originally posted by: binister

Originally posted by: John
Get a different faucet, and do it yourself this time. A novice can change one out in about 30 min. with a simple adjustable wrench.

The faucet is integrated into the sink. You can't change it out without replacing the entire sink. I would have no problem doing it myself but the sink is brand new and it was pricey for a sink.

Just curious if it is normal or not for these types of sinks. I have never had one with the removable faucet head before.

I doubt that it's integrated. Crawl under the counter/sink and you should see a couple of water lines running upwards. There are a couple of large washers (usually plastic) above the water lines that tighten the faucet to the sink. If anything go to Lowe's or HD and ask for some assistance with faucets.

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: binister
We had a new sink put in about 3 weeks ago and the plumber said the previous install was shoddy so he reinstalled all of the pipes, etc.

Everything is working fine (no leaks) but now our faucet stops itself unless it is on full blast. The handle basically just falls closed unless the pressure is high enough. The faucet is one of those removable ones (see example) and I asked the plumber if it is supposed to be that way and he said yes. He said the lack of pressure is because there is more tube (due to the removable faucet head). I know he is giving be a BS answer so I am coming to ATOT for my answer.

What do I need to do to get the faucet to stay on when it isn't full blast? The water pressure in the house is already way too high (The last plumber said it was around 140psi) so that isn't the problem. Is this just a problem with faucets that have handles that open/close vertically?

Example

I think we just installed one of those not too long ago...your problem is not normal.

It's almost certain that the faucet is removable; the plumber may have installed the faucet before mounting the sink - it's much easier than crawling in the cabinet and reaching up to tighten the faucet down.

Even with no water pressure, the handle should stay up.

 

[bctbct]

Did you try the manufacturers website for trouble shooting?

 

[DaTT]

I have the same problem with mine. Although, it doesn't have to be full blast to stay on......but at least 1/3.

 

[49erinnc]

I have virtually the same type of faucet in the link and SAME exact problem. Mine will not stay on unless I flip to lever to full blast. I hate it because it's a waste of water and sometimes you just want a slower stream.

From what tinkering I've done, it seems that it's related solely to the mechanics of the faucet and not to water pressure. I've been contemplating replacing it but haven't got around to it yet. If yours is a new model, it may be defective. Mine has been in for a long time so I think maybe it has just worn out.

 

[NascarFool]

<----- I do plumbing.

You need a pressure regulator on your water main. The pressure should be no higher than 90PSI. At 140PSI, the pressure/temperature relief valve on the water heater will eventually start leaking. Find out what faucet you have and replace the cartridge in it.

Life is easier if you have a basin wrench. The head flexes to make it easier to remove the nut(s) holding the faucet on the sink.

 

[Ornery]

Who picked out that particular unit? If your plumber did, tell him to get that POS out of there, and replace it with a tried & true Delta or Peerless. If you picked it out, go buy a tried & true Delta or Peerless and throw it in there yourself. Get your money back for that POS.

 

[FP]

Originally posted by: Muadib

Originally posted by: binister

Originally posted by: John
Get a different faucet, and do it yourself this time. A novice can change one out in about 30 min. with a simple adjustable wrench.

The faucet is integrated into the sink. You can't change it out without replacing the entire sink. I would have no problem doing it myself but the sink is brand new and it was pricey for a sink.

Just curious if it is normal or not for these types of sinks. I have never had one with the removable faucet head before.

I highly doubt that it is integrated into the sink. Did you watch the install?

To answer your question, the faucet should stay on with no problem. I installed one like it in my kitchen just before I sold my house, and it sounds like your plumber didn't tighten the handle enough. As I recall, you had to use an torx wrench to tighten it.

Thanks for all of the replies. You guys were right, I took a look under the sink again and it looks like the faucet is not integrated into the sink like I had originally thought. It just looks like it from the top, but underneath you can see the nuts that are holding it in place.

You do mention a good point though. The handle of the faucet has a good amount of "give" vertically before the water turns on. When I let go of the handle it falls that same amount of give and it seems like the momentum of the handle is what stops the water.

I'll try to take the faucet off and tighten the handle up.

With regards to the high water pressure at our house, I had another plumber come out to fix it. He gave me a quote but claimed I had to install a "Thermal Expansion Tank" on my water heater if he was going to be reducing the water pressure at the water service line outside. It doubles the price of the work.

NascarFool, do I really need the expansion tank? His only explaination for why I needed it was to prolong the life of my water heater. I googled a bit and understand that they are useful but I am not clear as to how they differ from a T&P valve (which our water heater already has).

EDIT: Found the explosion diagram of my faucet:

Link

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[Ornery]

Nice job on obtaining the diagram, but the cartridge, 974-570 is probably the crux of the problem. Since at least two others seem to be having the same problem, it's a forgone conclusion that the design is a bust.

 

[FP]

Originally posted by: 49erinnc
I have virtually the same type of faucet in the link and SAME exact problem. Mine will not stay on unless I flip to lever to full blast. I hate it because it's a waste of water and sometimes you just want a slower stream.

From what tinkering I've done, it seems that it's related solely to the mechanics of the faucet and not to water pressure. I've been contemplating replacing it but haven't got around to it yet. If yours is a new model, it may be defective. Mine has been in for a long time so I think maybe it has just worn out.

Have you had this problem since day 1 or has it progressive become worse?

 

[John]

Honestly I before I replaced my existing el-cheapo faucet I was considering the pull-out faucets, but I really wanted someting with the ability to attach a water filter to it. I opted for an inexpensive Peerless faucet and slapped on a PUR water filter. I'ts a very attractive and functional setup.

 

[dartworth]

NascarFool made a very good point. You really do need a Pressure Reducing Valve.

 

[JinLien]

Call the plumber back at no charge if he purchase the faucet kit for you. He should have given you suggestion or figured out if there is some things that can be addjust or return the parts due to manufacturing fault.

Try reading the manual to see if there is pressure adjustment settings that you can try, or it could be a malfunction or missing seal in the part.

I believe 10-15 psi is more than adequate at keeping your water valve open. Check your water pressure to make sure that it isn?t at 140 psi, because high water speed can wear out your copper/brass piping parts quickly (corrosion) which lead to leaks, water hammer can breaks your solder joints, and PEX is rated for max operating pressure of 120 psi. There are water pressure reducing valve that can be purchase and mount inline with the piping to reduce the water pressure to below 80 psi (resident max operating pressure).

Purchase a water pressure gauge at your local hardware store for around $20-25 and mount it to your first outside hose bib from the street if you think that you have very high water pressure. Most cities regulate the water pressure at the meter to prevent high water pressure from destroying residents piping.

 

[JinLien]

Originally posted by: NascarFool
<----- I do plumbing.

You need a pressure regulator on your water main. The pressure should be no higher than 90PSI. At 140PSI, the pressure/temperature relief valve on the water heater will eventually start leaking. Find out what faucet you have and replace the cartridge in it.

Life is easier if you have a basin wrench. The head flexes to make it easier to remove the nut(s) holding the faucet on the sink.

The basin wrench is nice to have if you need to mount & unmount the faucet from under neath the cabinet. The problem sound like it need to be access from above to the cartridge as suggested by Nascar.

 

[NascarFool]

binister, an expansion tank will help prevent the relief valve from leaking on the water heater. The expansion tank should be installed on the cold[/b[ water line near the water heater.

 

[DrPizza]

Just a guess here... I'm thinking that the pressure reducing valves restrict the waterflow backwards...
When the waterheater heats up water, the water expands, increasing the pressure in the system, or pushing the water in the direction it can. If all the faucets are closed, the extra volume pushes the water backwards through the system (only slightly). Of course, there's a very small amount of expansion of the pipes themselves. I haven't a clue how significant this is. So, maybe it is worth the investment to install a thermal expansion tank.

Regardless, I'm thinking that since you've been hiring plumbers to do this work that it's time to get a couple of do-it-yourself books. (apologies to the plumbers in here who enjoy making money doing simple jobs) Do you ever watch any of those home-improvement shows on television? Just the other day, I saw one of them where they installed a water-softener system and suggested the average homeowner could accomplish the same task.

 

[JinLien]

Originally posted by: DrPizza
Just a guess here... I'm thinking that the pressure reducing valves restrict the waterflow backwards...
When the waterheater heats up water, the water expands, increasing the pressure in the system, or pushing the water in the direction it can. If all the faucets are closed, the extra volume pushes the water backwards through the system (only slightly). Of course, there's a very small amount of expansion of the pipes themselves. I haven't a clue how significant this is. So, maybe it is worth the investment to install a thermal expansion tank.

Regardless, I'm thinking that since you've been hiring plumbers to do this work that it's time to get a couple of do-it-yourself books. (apologies to the plumbers in here who enjoy making money doing simple jobs) Do you ever watch any of those home-improvement shows on television? Just the other day, I saw one of them where they installed a water-softener system and suggested the average homeowner could accomplish the same task.

Pressure reducing valves reduces the water pressure that coming into your home.

Water heater expansion tank reduces the back flow from the expansion of heated water, and reduce pressure on your home piping joints.

Most tasks around the house can be done by home owner, but most home owner takes a very long time to do the task or don?t know the code or don?t have the right tools. Therefore it is better to get a professional to do the task.

Most people are capable of building their own home, but it is more efficient for people to get a job that they do well at and pay for the home that are built quickly by builders. Same thing can be said with software, because most people can learn how to code and built there own program, but it is cheaper and most of time better to purchase the software that do the tasks that you want.

Fixing a car is simple to a mechanical orientated person, but many people still bring in their car to get fix that cost more than they are willing to pay. I bet most people here don?t bother with the dead simple task of changing their own car oil.

It looks easy till you are doing it.