Plumbing experts? Got 3.5" SCH 40 ABS pipe for toilet...

[EliteRetard]

Where/how can I get a toilet flange? Yes, this is 3.5" ID 4" OD SCH 40 DWV ABS pipe. According to these sites it's 3.5" pipe:

http://www.professionalplastics.com/professionalplastics/ABSPipeSizes.pdf
http://www.mcnichols.com/viewer.htm?pageCode=pipedims

There was a flange installed inside the pipe, it broke and was cut off. The remains of the old flange are still inside the pipe. There are actually 3 toilets with this issue and they all need new flanges to raise them to a new floor height as well. The floor will be about 1.75-2" higher than the end of the pipe, so I need a flange that can reach down far enough to glue into the pipe as well. What can I use to clean inside old nasty ABS pipe for new glue/solvent?

I was hoping maybe I could find a new flange with a 4" ID that would slip over the outside of the old pipe so I didn't have to try to figure out how to remove the old flange material.

I'm not having any luck trying to figure out pipe and flange dimensions and what will or will not work.

Also one of the drain pipes is under concrete, with an old flange that was set like .5-.75" below another layer of concrete. The new higher layer partially covers the old flange and tapers out to 7-8" diameter. I need to figure out how to chisel out/remove the old flange and install a new one here...and how I could possibly attach it securely to the broken up concrete funnel thing going on. No flat surface to set the new flange to, and no way to screw it down. Once removing the old flange somehow can I fill the remaining void with something and then drill holes for some kind of bolt or what?

 

[Humpy]

Getting the old flange out of the pipe is pretty easy. Carefully make a few cuts in it and chisel it out. File and or sand it smooth enough to accept the new flange.

There are longer flanges and some with spacers etc to make up for the floor height change. The one in concrete, set it to height and mortar it in. You could drill some holes after and screw it down or epoxy it down.

It is probably a 3" hub you are seeing at the floor. I believe it should be easy to find a 3.5" o.d. flange that will fit.

 

[EliteRetard]

Tried cutting at the old flange already, the plastic is fused into one piece. Even if the pipe were mounted solid so I could pound on it (it's loose and would break) there is no way to "chisel" it out without destroying the pipe.

And nope not a 3" hub. I have access to top and bottom and it's a 3.5" pipe. Nobody believes it, but its 100% a 3.5" pipe. I found a 4" ABS pipe will slide around the outside of it pretty nice, so I may try to get a flange with a 4" ID and glue it outside the pipe. Only pause is that there will be a ~.5" lip inside the pipe that can catch water and crap (literally) from the pipe and old flange. Maybe I can router it before gluing the new pipe outside.

That wont work for the concrete one though, the outside of the pipe is surrounded by concrete.

 

[pcgeek11]

Call a plumber and have it done correctly. This is some serious "shit" and you do not want it leaking after the fact as it may leak for months before you actually find it or it finds you.

 

[bruceb]

They make a special tool to cut the pvc from the inside. It was shown on a This Old House episode. Once you get it off, just get a coupler and maybe a short section of pvc pipe to extend it up to where the new flange needs to be.

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/rambit-plastic-fitting-saver-tool.html

 

[EliteRetard]

They make a special tool to cut the pvc from the inside. It was shown on a This Old House episode. Once you get it off, just get a coupler and maybe a short section of pvc pipe to extend it up to where the new flange needs to be.

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/rambit-plastic-fitting-saver-tool.html

Nothing for 3.5", I suppose a hole saw might work.

 

[EliteRetard]

Call a plumber and have it done correctly. This is some serious "shit" and you do not want it leaking after the fact as it may leak for months before you actually find it or it finds you.

I am the plumber lol. Friends parent let the toilet leak so long it rotted out all the sub-floor, the joists, sills, and studs, and even the outside wall and siding. They had an estimate done but wont get it fixed for that price. They would literally rather have the house fall down. I volunteered my services for no logical reason, other than to help a friend.

So the house is now supported by crap tons of various bits of wood and screws all over to replace the rotted bits, and the next step was plumbing. The non-standard setup made things more difficult to figure out.

Still a lot better than what it was or would be.

 

[Scarpozzi]

I actually used one of these a few years ago when I had a toilet with a low flange:
http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/1...x-free-toilet-bowl-gasket-reviews/reviews.htm

I was dealing with a tile floor and used felt to shore up the toilet and keep it from rocking.

For your issue, it's going to be a question on if you can reach the pipe and replace the whole flange unit. If you are on a second story, you may have to cut the subfloor away or work from underneath. Ultimately, the toilet itself has a trap and unless your septic line backs up, you won't have to worry about the flange leaking 90% of the time (it's not under pressure...only gravity).