Plumbing .... 3" copper drain pipe leaking

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IHateMyJob2004

IHateMyJob2004

Lifer
Sep 29, 2004
18,656
67
91
This is awesome. Actually no, it is not.

I have a 3" copper drain pipe in my basement that is leaking. It is not in a wall but it is next to a wall of a finished area. So if I had to cut the pipe or desolder it would be a PITA.

So, the drain goes down then bends at a 45 degree angle. Where the 45 degree elbow attaches to the piece of pipe that is oriented at a 45 degree angle, there is a leak at the solder joint. It seems to be directly on the bottom, where most of the water would have been flowing over the years. This is a 45 year old or so joint.

Option 1:
Call a plumber .... avoid unless I have to in order to save bucks.

Option 2:
The location sucks. Replacing the pipe would be tricky for me to do. I was thinking about using JB Weld or Plumber's Epoxy Putty where the leak is. Then wrapping everything in duct tape. Since it is a 3" pipe and pretty much touching studs from the framed wall I think this is the best "fix". This is inspired by this article but I think it is a bit wonky:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/fix-water-leak-pipe-jb-weld-plumbers-epoxy-putty-77740.html

I don't care if I have to do this repair every 5 years so long as it lasts that long.

Anyway .... any experts in here that can give a better plan ..... I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.
 
T

TonyG

Platinum Member
Feb 12, 2000
2,021
2
81
If it is the solder joint leaking, the best option is to solder it again. You could use some scrap plywood to protect the ajacent walls and floor from the heat and flame. I have my doubts, but if they make 3" sharkbite type fittings, you could cut out the elbow and easily replace it with those, which would avoid playing with fire.
 
MongGrel

MongGrel

Lifer
Dec 3, 2013
38,466
3,067
121
3" pretty big, I doubt they make a sharkbite for that.

Just shelled out $3500 for a new 40' sewer line today.

Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and get it done right, I had comtemplated doing it myself and trying to get the roots out.

Apparently it was probably worse than I thought to begin with, the guys did a good job and it is done and over with.

Was old tile type pipe in there, were more roots growing into it than I thought from what it sounded.

I'd gotten other estimates earlier from $4500-$5000, The guy came in sounded like he knew what he was doing the other day, and I got the estimate from him.

He had been at a few places the last 20 years and he knew it was typically higher, I just hired him on the spot to do it.
 
Last edited:
Phoenix86

Phoenix86

Lifer
May 21, 2003
14,644
10
81
Do you know how to sweat a pipe?

Yes? Do it.

No? Consider biting the bullet. It's not super hard to learn, and if you have the tools it might be worth taking a crack at it before calling. Can't hurt. If you have to buy too much shit, just call a plumber.

edit: You'd need a pipe cutter, wire brush, flux/solder and a propane torch and something to sacrifice to save the finished wall (spare wood). I'm guessing ~$50 in parts/tools if you have none of them.

edit2: for a drain pipe, I'm guessing JB weld will work as a really ghetto fix, and it'll probably hold for a few years.
 
Last edited:
bbhaag

bbhaag

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2011
7,094
2,530
146
Clamp one of these on and call it a day. Since it's a drain pipe there is no pressure so it should last well beyond your 5 year mark. I realize I'm going to get some blowback on this suggestion but it's cheap, easy, and will last awhile given the situation.
s04M3.jpg
 
R

richardycc

Diamond Member
Apr 29, 2001
5,719
1
81
why would they use copper for a drain pipe? copper was cheap back then, but still a waste of metal for a drain pipe, just cut it off and replace it with ABS pipe.
 
Red Squirrel

Red Squirrel

No Lifer
May 24, 2003
69,677
13,314
126
www.betteroff.ca
I'd attempt to just sweat in some more solder in there. Though to do it properly you'd probably have to take it apart so you can sand and flux to do a brand new joint. I've only sweated up to 3/4" I imagine heating up a 3" pipe takes quite a lot of flame and time, not sure if a regular torch is enough or if you have to step it up to something bigger. The whole stack will act as a pretty big heat sink. Worth a shot anyway.

Since there's no pressure you could even use a piece of rubber or something with some very tight hose clamps. My laundry tub goes from ABS to copper and uses a rubber fitting with hose clamps and it holds fine with no leaks.

Copper was pretty common back in the day, quite crazy and overkill but no reason to remove if it's already there.
 
DrPizza

DrPizza

Administrator Elite Member Goat Whisperer
Mar 5, 2001
49,601
167
111
www.slatebrookfarm.com
bbhaag said:
Clamp one of these on and call it a day. Since it's a drain pipe there is no pressure so it should last well beyond your 5 year mark. I realize I'm going to get some blowback on this suggestion but it's cheap, easy, and will last awhile given the situation.
s04M3.jpg
Click to expand...
I'm not going to give you any blowback - that's what I was going to suggest - and just a rubber sleeve at that, with stainless steel hose clamps, and maybe some plumber's putty near the area where it's leaking. (That suggestion is for after the OP tries to solder the joint.)

richardycc said:
why would they use copper for a drain pipe? copper was cheap back then, but still a waste of metal for a drain pipe, just cut it off and replace it with ABS pipe.
Click to expand...
Don't forget to go to the scrap yard with the copper you remove!
 
T

TonyG

Platinum Member
Feb 12, 2000
2,021
2
81
I didn't think about those rubber repair sleaves, and they do offer an additional plus of being available at home depot/lowes, or atleast should be. Though, the ones i am thinking about would still require cutting the pipe to slide it on.
 
edro

edro

Lifer
Apr 5, 2002
24,326
68
91
I do like that coupling bbhaag suggested. As long as it fits over the 45° far enough to stop the leak and the rubber is thick enough to deal with the offset of the elbow.
 
IHateMyJob2004

IHateMyJob2004

Lifer
Sep 29, 2004
18,656
67
91
richardycc said:
why would they use copper for a drain pipe? copper was cheap back then, but still a waste of metal for a drain pipe, just cut it off and replace it with ABS pipe.
Click to expand...

It's part of the main stack that is leaking. It would be a PITA to cut out and replace. I don't even know what would happen to the lad from above (that's a lot of pipe going straight up 20 feet)
 
IHateMyJob2004

IHateMyJob2004

Lifer
Sep 29, 2004
18,656
67
91
bbhaag said:
Clamp one of these on and call it a day. Since it's a drain pipe there is no pressure so it should last well beyond your 5 year mark. I realize I'm going to get some blowback on this suggestion but it's cheap, easy, and will last awhile given the situation.
s04M3.jpg
Click to expand...

I do like this idea. The only problem may be that I can't get it to fit between the wood framing and the pipe. I think the pipe is literally touching the wood framing. I might need to get the saws all out to trim away the stud. Hrmmmm.
 
IHateMyJob2004

IHateMyJob2004

Lifer
Sep 29, 2004
18,656
67
91
edro said:
They make thinner versions as well that aren't a large die cast piece.
You would have to cut the gasket lengthwise to get it on.
They make rubber with 2 pipe clamps on each end, and they make the same type with a metal band around the entire length.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-3...-Coupling-P3000-33/100372287?N=5yc1vZbqpfZ4hs
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-2...-Coupling-P1056-22/100096490?N=5yc1vZbqpfZ4hs (2")
Click to expand...

I'm currently thinking of getting one of these and a third O ring clamp.

The third O ring clamp will go directly on top of the leaky area.
 
edro

edro

Lifer
Apr 5, 2002
24,326
68
91
Give it a try, let us know how it went.
I would still clean the pipe up real well and make sure it's super dry before you use that.
 
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