please help me fix my car... updated fixed with coke and vice grips

[numb]

Info:
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue

Scenerio:
Two days ago I disconnected the postive lead on the battery to hook up a wire for my speaker amp. The nut stripped, so I decided not to install the wire. I tightened the nut back down and gave up on the rest of the installation. Came back 2 hours later to start the car, and I find that the steering column is locked down, the brake will not move, no power goes to anything and it doesn't come on.

Symptoms
1. car won't start; doesn't turn over
2. the gauges all move and then return to the idle positions
3. stereo will not come on; has powered up twice though, and remain powered until i tried starting the car again
4. lights are dim, including headlights
5. footbrake(pedal), and steering will not budge

What I've already tried
1. Jumpstarting the car. Normal jump did not work, and letting the other car run for 30 minutes while charging my battery doesn't make a difference.
2. I tested the voltage across the alternator... 10V
3. Battery Voltage is 13... I assume that just an RMS on the DMM though... so let's say 12
4. Ohm'ed out all the fuses in the engine and in the cab. Visually inspected for breaks and found none.
5. Chevy dealer said the security light would be lighted on the dash if the security system was activated.... it is not lit though.
6. It's been sitting like this for 2 days now and I've tried each night after work to start it up, but there is no change in the condition.


I realize this should be taken to a dealer or a mechanic, but I have $100 to my name and the dealer has already quoted me ~ $200 just in labor... parts and towing fee not included. This is my only method for getting to work, so I'm having to rely on a friend to come pick me up every morning. If anyone can help or give suggestions, I'd really appreciate it.

 

[db]

Lots of ignition switch failures on the newer GMs. Also try moving gear selector as you have key in start position. Also check your park/neutral switches.

 

[Evadman]

The connection at the battery is not making a good connection. Get a cleaner ( wire brush ) from a hardware store, and clean both the clamp and the terminal.

Question: Is this a post style battery or a side terminal? ( is the connection on the top or side of the battery?

 

[Zenmervolt]

If you can turn the key, the steering should unlock. Almost every car built since the 1970's has a device whereby the steering wheel locks in place if the keys are out of the ignition or not in the "run" position. The brakes are working, they just are not getting vacuum boost (which is dependant upon the engine running). Dim lights points to a bad connection or a loose ground somewhere in the electrical system, what is probably happening is that while the battery is OK, you have a bad connection somewhere (very likely right at the battery terminal) and the wiring is not able to pass enough voltage to trip the starter solenoid. If all you hear when you turn the key is a breif click, then the solenoid is not being tripped. Go through and tighten every electrical connection that you can think of.

ZV

EDIT: Got beaten to the punch. Cleaning the connections is a good idea too, as has been mentioned.

 

[Evadman]

2. I tested the voltage across the alternator... 10V
3. Battery Voltage is 13... I assume that just an RMS on the DMM though... so let's say 12


According to this, you are dropping 2-3 volts between the battery and the alternator. You connector is dirty ( at the battery ) or not hooked up all the way.

PM me if you have any ?'s.

 

[numb]

Side connection battery. It is pretty corodded. I'll go clean it up and the try again... bbiaf

 

[Evadman]

<< Side connection battery. It is pretty corodded. I'll go clean it up and the try again... bbiaf >>



That's what it is.( nice and green? ) Use a little water and baking soda. with a wire brush. then use a hose and spray the crud out of the connector.

Don't worry about the water + battery. You will be fine.

edit: Take the battery out of the car first.

 

[db]

n/m...too late

 

[Thegonagle]

GM car, so it's side posts, right?

Are you able to tighten the cable? Are the threads on the battery stripped?

If you can't tighten the cable, the car isn't going to start.

If you can tighten the cable, then there is internal damage the battery where the cell plates attach to the posts, possibly from being overtightened and subsequently loosened.

EDIT: I'm way too slow.

 

[numb]

The nut is too stripped to turn. How can I deal with that?

 

[Evadman]

Use a pair of pliers. Preferably locking. Be aware anything you touch with the pliers besides the batery post is going to give you a nice spark.

You can disconect the negitive batery cable first if you are worried, but still be careful.

The threads on the battery are not screwed up right? just the bolt?

And buy a new bolt. They are like $2

 

[Zenmervolt]

<< The nut is too stripped to turn. How can I deal with that? >>

New battery cable end. At least, that's what I'd do with a top-post battery. I've not had to deal with one of those strange side-post batteries. How'd it get stripped in the first place? Wrong size socket, or was it a crescent wrench? An adjustable wrench will strip almost every time. (I've learned that one the hard way.) To just get this nut out, try a Vice-Grips.

ZV

EDIT: And once again, I'm just not quite fast enough.

 

[Evadman]

The size on your battery nut will be a 8 mm. No one ever uses an 8, they all use the std equiv, so it strips, and does it fast because the bolt is so soft. deal with it all the time.

You should be able to pickup just the end at a good hardware store. I would pickup the whole cable too, just in case you still get the same problem. the cable itself can be corroded inside the sheath, and the only way to tell is to cut the insulation off.

If you do not use the cable, you can allways return it. Conneting it to the starter is a pain.

 

[PsychoAndy]

why were you tapping off the battery anyways? shouldnt there be an output in the fusebox for accessory add ons?

 

[numb]

Honestly I think this is another one of those times where I shouldn't have touched something that was working fine. Thanks for the help everyone. I don't have vice grips, so a friend is bringing me some later. She's also bringing coke(soft drink), which is supposed to eat battery acid extremely fast. Replies were greatly appreciated.

 

[Evadman]

You can use coke, but be sure to use the regular stuff, diet will not work.

Also, you will still have to wash the remaning syrup off the battery.

 

[PsychoAndy]

drink the coke and mix up some baking soda and water.....

<----carbonated beverage freak

 

[Evadman]

You and me both

Backing soda will work better ( as was said way above ) but coke will do. Pepsi will not.

You will need a wire brush. no way around that. The connectors must sparkle!

 

[PsychoAndy]

i really dont like seeing good coke/pepsi go to waste

BTW, did you see my previous post up a bit? shouldnt he have tapped off of the fuse/electrical panel inside the engine and not off the battery itself?

 

[Cyberian]

You've already gotten plenty of excellent advice.


<< 2. I tested the voltage across the alternator... 10V >>

How did you test the alternator if the car won't run?

 

[Evadman]

The alternator will still have batery voltage present at the positive termainal even when not running.

And tapping off the electical fuse pnl would be ok, but most amps ( he said that was what he was installing ) will pull upwards of 30 amps, and the little 10 gauge wire that feeds the fuse pnl would burn up with that much extra load. ( or atleast be unsafe )