Please go over my lapping checklist
- Thread starter Heller
- Start date
1000 1500 or 2000 grit from an automotive store 9x11 or 8.5 x 11 size sheets. a spray bottle of soapy water to lubricate the wet/dry sandpaper.
also, 3 hours of your time
maybe a magic marker/sharpie for drawing a large asterisk on the tuniq base. This way you will see which areas rub off first and can determine exactly how unflat it was. Then when you're close to finish and checking flatness, you will need a razorblade to hold over the hsf in all directions and you put it up to a light to make sure no light can be seen between the bottom of the razor blade and the surface of the HSF. This is called the razor blade test. You're shooting for shiny smooth mirrory solid copper flatness.
also, 3 hours of your time
maybe a magic marker/sharpie for drawing a large asterisk on the tuniq base. This way you will see which areas rub off first and can determine exactly how unflat it was. Then when you're close to finish and checking flatness, you will need a razorblade to hold over the hsf in all directions and you put it up to a light to make sure no light can be seen between the bottom of the razor blade and the surface of the HSF. This is called the razor blade test. You're shooting for shiny smooth mirrory solid copper flatness.
- Jul 10, 2006
- 6,551
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are those higher grits really necessary? do i really need 6 different types of sand paper?
also where would i get this glass surface? whats it called? could i grab it at Home Depot? would should i ask for?
would you happen to have a step by step guide would you
also where would i get this glass surface? whats it called? could i grab it at Home Depot? would should i ask for?
would you happen to have a step by step guide would you
i used my glass coffee table. Put my hand through the pipes and held the base, instead of holding the large fin area, and did straight passes north-south repeatedly. Ocassionally I turned the base 90 or 180 degrees and did more passes. I cleaned off the base when switching between grits, and after the 1500, with a single direction and multiple north-south or south-north passes, I got the best shine i could get. Then i cleaned the entire base with q-tips and iso aclohol. It gets filled with a hazy grey dust (at least my ultra 120 did). then I applied a super thin layer of AS5 with my finger and smeared it evenly across. I could still clearly see the copper through the thin coating.
n7
Elite Member
- Jan 4, 2004
- 21,281
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Looks good to me.
1500 isn't needed really btw...that just adds a shine.
I used 180, 320, 600, 1500, since that's the closest i could find to what i wanted at the store i went to.
I could tell the 1500 was a waste of time if you had a <1000, but i didn't so it helped a tiny bit.
200,400, 800 is a good combination.
Prepare for tired arms/hands
1500 isn't needed really btw...that just adds a shine.
I used 180, 320, 600, 1500, since that's the closest i could find to what i wanted at the store i went to.
I could tell the 1500 was a waste of time if you had a <1000, but i didn't so it helped a tiny bit.
200,400, 800 is a good combination.
Prepare for tired arms/hands
- Jul 10, 2006
- 6,551
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200 grit might not be low enough to make for an easy task of beveling the edges of your tuniq. Your patience will determine this.
For me I beveled one Tuniq with 220 grit, and it was excrutiatingly slow going. I bought a 70 grit sanding block for $3 at AutoZone (it's a like a kitchen sponge coated on all surfaces with this green abrasive). This make for quick and painless beveling, <5 minutes.
From experience I doubt you'll see a noteworthy improvement by going above 800 grit. I tried 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000 grits and my temps were the same as 800 grit. I didn't test anything with less than 800 grit, so maybe even 800 is a waste of effort.
If you want that shiny mirror-like finish for sense of job satisfaction then you must go to 1000 grit minimum.
If you do not lap your CPU then expect questionably returns from your Tuniq lapping efforts. I've lapped convex and concave Tuniqs, so no rule of thumb there as to which you have right now. All my quads (6) were convex (bump-up in the center).
If you are lapping an already concave Tuniq then your temps could actually get worse if you do not lap your liekly convex CPU. If your Tuniq is currently convex then lapping it alone will likely improve your temps.
Just food for thought, I wouldn't recommend doing any more than you are comfortable doing. It took me years of reading about other's adventures with lapping before I worked up the courage to lap something myself. Once I did it the first time (very gingerly too) then I realized just how abusive you can be with the CPU and Heatsink to no ill-effect.
your coffee table looks fine. I spent about 20 mins on each grit, or until it felt like time to change it up.
good point. I lapped my cpu as well. In the same fashion, except with a lot more care. And I used that black plastic backing thing to press against. Kinda made me nervous but dropped my 4.05ghz Load temps from 71C to 61-62C with the exact same vcore.
Were you able to convert some of that reduced temperature into leverage to further lower your Vcore needed to hit that clockspeed? Just curious, in theory you should be able to. Admittadly I never bother to check for myself after lapping mine.
Table looks fine, I'd recommend 200, 400, 800 personally. 1000 or 1200 if you really must, but you're pretty much just wasting your time since it's flatness not shine that matters. Also remember that you should probably do the IHS on your CPU as well to maximize your contact. Do the TT first and develop your technique, then do the CPU.
Here is my article on lapping if you want a quick review.
Here is my article on lapping if you want a quick review.
superstition
Platinum Member
- Feb 2, 2008
- 2,219
- 221
- 101
I don't think 1000 is a waste of effort. A lot depends upon the quality of the sandpaper. I tried some 1500 grit from Ace and it caused deep scratches. It was not regular wet/dry, it was waterproof. Be careful to get the right stuff. I found that 1000 grit does a good job of getting the surface to a nice fuzzy mirror. While it's true that a perfect mirror finish isn't necessary, scratches are what cause a surface to not look mirror, and scratches trap air. So, a little bit more time to get a fuzzy mirror finish is worth it in my opinion. 1000 grit doesn't take much time, either. The key to a quicker job is getting the right paper and no using too much pressure during the polishing stage. The last thing I did was made a small puddle of water on the paper and use very little pressure. As you sand/polish, you will want progressively less pressure and grit to avoid making scratches.
Also, your list lacks strong tape to tape down the glass and paper.
Also, your list lacks strong tape to tape down the glass and paper.
Forgot to mention that low odor kerosene is the best lubricant for wet lapping. Soapy water works, but kerosene is faaarrrrrr better and makes it much easier. Totally worth the $5 you'll spend.
Yes I could. only by like a .025 or so. One or two increments delta via bios. Any time it's cooler, Vcore is lower, and the stress isn't so bad, you're running good!
However, I doubt the change in required vcore is as noticable as when they go from air to subzero cooling.
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