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Plasma wall mounting

L

LegendKiller

Lifer
So I had my 65ZT60 and 6020FD mounted this week by a professional AV company. They are the same ones who put the LV into my new home. We were pretty happy with the work they did before.

The mounts needed to be full-motion mounts since they were recessed locations with poor off-axis viewing so a flat-mount wouldn't work, especially with access needed to the back.

The ZT60 mount worked out pretty well. The studs were 16", 8" each off center, so the mount centered well.

However, the builder put a stud in the exact center of the recessed cut out. The AV company drilled a hole in the center of the mount and then put in two lag bolds into the stud, on center. However, they did not bolt to either side. So now I have ~120lb tv, on a 32" telescoping mount, only hitting one stud.

The company says it's fine, but I am not sure. What do you guys think?
 
If you feel insecure you could add some heavy duty drywall anchors on either side. The single stud should be plenty strong though.
 
I was researching all this recently because I knew I was going to be replacing the TV in a second home we purchased. I intended to go quite a bit larger for one thing and the other concern is the the condo is built with steel studs. Once I decided on the TV I wanted, I saw that it was actually quite a bit lighter than the old TV it was replacing and I decided to go with what I had which was an existing wall mount that was rated for a TV up to 100 pounds.

But when researching, I came across these and as I investigated them further I became pretty impressed with them. You can buy them at Lowe's for certain, Home Depot, I don't know.

http://toolmonger.com/2013/01/03/the-best-wall-anchors-ive-ever-used/

My wall mount bracket is a flat mount that does not articulate only pivots slightly. I can understand the concern with a mount that can extend from the wall. For piece of mind you might want to consider these but you will have to remove what is already mounted and reinstall it as I can't imagine the existing mounting holes in the mount are large enough for the toggle to pass through.

Manufacturers website is below. I read through everything they had on these and one of the requirement I recall is that they are to be installed with the toggle oriented vertically for the most strength. Obviously, you also wouldn't want to install so many in a small area such that you were weakening the drywall. There are a lot of mounting holes in many TV mounts so more may not necessarily be better.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php
 
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NoTine42 said:
Lag screws do.

But what about the measly 2 nails that hold the top of the stud into the header or sill plate?
Click to expand...

The wall is built as an assembly. There is quite a bit more holding that stud into place than the plate fasteners. If it is an outside wall, you have the exterior sheathing, and associated fasteners. Plus the interior GWB and fasteners. There isn't much you are going to do that will pull a stud free from the wall.
 
boomerang said:
I was researching all this recently because I knew I was going to be replacing the TV in a second home we purchased. I intended to go quite a bit larger for one thing and the other concern is the the condo is built with steel studs. Once I decided on the TV I wanted, I saw that it was actually quite a bit lighter than the old TV it was replacing and I decided to go with what I had which was an existing wall mount that was rated for a TV up to 100 pounds.

But when researching, I came across these and as I investigated them further I became pretty impressed with them. You can buy them at Lowe's for certain, Home Depot, I don't know.

http://toolmonger.com/2013/01/03/the-best-wall-anchors-ive-ever-used/

My wall mount bracket is a flat mount that does not articulate only pivots slightly. I can understand the concern with a mount that can extend from the wall. For piece of mind you might want to consider these but you will have to remove what is already mounted and reinstall it as I can't imagine the existing mounting holes in the mount are large enough for the toggle to pass through.

Manufacturers website is below. I read through everything they had on these and one of the requirement I recall is that they are to be installed with the toggle oriented vertically for the most strength. Obviously, you also wouldn't want to install so many in a small area such that you were weakening the drywall. There are a lot of mounting holes in many TV mounts so more may not necessarily be better.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php
Click to expand...


Yeah, I saw these and picked up a few at Lowes. The problem is I don't want to take the whole mount off, then install these, then put the mount back on. One thing I thought of was to drill the mount out to the 1/2", then put these in with the ring in the drilled out area, then take 1-2" washers and put the bolt through those.

I was going to put one of these in the toilette paper roll so my kids don't rip them out 🙂

The AV company got back to me and said it should be fine, put it in writing. But I am thinking of just having them out and doing what they can do so I don't have to pay more or fool with it myself.
 
One stud will hold it. I would be more concerned though with the damage the lag screws do to the stud. They sometimes will cause dry #2 pine to split easily (1/4" and larger lags are typically used)... This is the only problem I could see. Since it's going through drywall too, it's probably a little stronger.

When I mount TVs in my house, I actually will take a few small pieces of 1/2" plywood and glue them/wrap them in thick black paper (or spraypaint tehm black)...then put my TV mount on that base. This helps spread the load and acts as a flat washer between the mount and drywall and sandwiches the gypsum and makes for a more snug fit. I've had good results with this and it's actually helped with cable management as well.
 
How far apart are the screws?
What type of screw? How long?
What kind of pilot hole did they drill?

All very important questions that you probably can't answer.

My suggestion: Don't worry about it.
 
edro said:
How far apart are the screws?
What type of screw? How long?
What kind of pilot hole did they drill?

All very important questions that you probably can't answer.

My suggestion: Don't worry about it.
Click to expand...

Just making sure. I've got 3 kids running around and a very heavy tv hanging on the mount. I read all about these people putting up plywood over 3 studs and such and I am not certain whether it is complete overkill or rational actions.

Thanks for the info though, it helps settle it.
 
How will these snap toggles hold up in a hollow, concrete wall? Wall thickness is about 1/4" and mounting a 50" LCD TV.
 
Not entirely off topic but I remember watching a video on j hooks rated to hold 600 pounds on regular drywall.

I myself just use those butterfly bolts and it holds like a champ.
 
NutBucket said:
Concrete.....not plaster?
Click to expand...
Finally got around to this. The walls are stucco sprayed onto heavy chicken wire. We were able to fish a wire about 30" into a 4" hole we drilled. Hit nothing in either direction.
The thickness is about 3/8".
 
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